Sensors that can cause turn over but no start
#63
Rennlist Member
Did you check for 12v power at the injectors, colis, MAF, change-over valves, purge valve ect.??
#64
Advanced
Thread Starter
I think my next tasks will be putting noids on 3 & 6 to see if they’re pulsing. Also to pull the seat back out an figure out why I can tone ground on C3 fuse. I also thought maybe I need an assistant to turn the key to see voltage on all that while the starter is running.
Thanks again, really appreciate your help.
#65
Rennlist Member
Yes, thanks for all of your advice. Although I only checked injectors 3 & 6 since my hand fits enough to reach those two.
I think my next tasks will be putting noids on 3 & 6 to see if they’re pulsing. Also to pull the seat back out an figure out why I can tone ground on C3 fuse. I also thought maybe I need an assistant to turn the key to see voltage on all that while the starter is running.
Thanks again, really appreciate your help.
I think my next tasks will be putting noids on 3 & 6 to see if they’re pulsing. Also to pull the seat back out an figure out why I can tone ground on C3 fuse. I also thought maybe I need an assistant to turn the key to see voltage on all that while the starter is running.
Thanks again, really appreciate your help.
Then go back and triple check this..
Check to make sure you have not crossed up the bank 1 Cam Sensor and the Crank Sensor.......I have seen this a dozen times and it kicks everyones azz
They are right next to each other and will plug in....even though they are color-coded black and white...it is not as obvious as it seems when they are dirty and happens a lot...
When the engine is in the car it is a pain in the azz to test the wiring because these connectors are buried back next to the AOS...so it kicks some azz untill you finally get in there to test the wiring..
Since it won't start with starting fluid, that eliminates FUEL, ....so check these connectors NEXT...
They are right next to each other and will plug in....even though they are color-coded black and white...it is not as obvious as it seems when they are dirty and happens a lot...
When the engine is in the car it is a pain in the azz to test the wiring because these connectors are buried back next to the AOS...so it kicks some azz untill you finally get in there to test the wiring..
Since it won't start with starting fluid, that eliminates FUEL, ....so check these connectors NEXT...
#66
Advanced
Thread Starter
Not sure about fuel pressure, since the pump doesn't come on. Should I jump it or turn on via Durametric so the fuel pump runs and check pressure? Haven't bothered since the pump won't run without being forced.
Can it detect low compression, and not turn on the fuel pump for that reason? I can check compression, but not sure how many rotations before stopping to look at the gauge?
Then go back and triple check this..
Thanks again, really appreciate the help.
Last edited by Porschenstein; 09-25-2023 at 03:01 PM.
#67
ECU cannot check for low compression.
You crank until the needle on the compression tester no longer moves. Ideally you find a way to record the pressure achieved on the first compression stroke and count how many strokes pass until the pressure no longer increases. Do this for every cilinder.
If you can, open the throttle body fully during all your measurements.
You crank until the needle on the compression tester no longer moves. Ideally you find a way to record the pressure achieved on the first compression stroke and count how many strokes pass until the pressure no longer increases. Do this for every cilinder.
If you can, open the throttle body fully during all your measurements.
#68
Rennlist Member
Ok, then lets back up even further to the BASICS
Three most improtant things an engine needs to run..
1 Compression
2 Fuel ( and air)
3 Spark
More in depth things and engine may need to run
1 proper timing of spark
2 proper timing of valves ( this can also effect compression readings)
3 proper fuel
So ;
1 Test compression on all cylinders, three compression strokes is enough to max out readings
2 Test fuel pressure with gauge ( a substitute fuel can be used as a test ie, starting fluid/propane/ just to see if the engine will run and verify that the other two necessary basics are OK )
3. Test for healthy spark once every compression stroke on every coil...
So go back and verify these three things to see which one is missing, because if they are all there, THE ENGINE WILL RUN ...
Three most improtant things an engine needs to run..
1 Compression
2 Fuel ( and air)
3 Spark
More in depth things and engine may need to run
1 proper timing of spark
2 proper timing of valves ( this can also effect compression readings)
3 proper fuel
So ;
1 Test compression on all cylinders, three compression strokes is enough to max out readings
2 Test fuel pressure with gauge ( a substitute fuel can be used as a test ie, starting fluid/propane/ just to see if the engine will run and verify that the other two necessary basics are OK )
3. Test for healthy spark once every compression stroke on every coil...
So go back and verify these three things to see which one is missing, because if they are all there, THE ENGINE WILL RUN ...
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dcdrechsel (09-26-2023)
#69
Advanced
Thread Starter
Since I can jump the relay and it comes on and I can put the relay back in and turn it on with Durametric, it appears that the pump, fuse, relay and wiring is all good for the pump.
I have confirmed when the key is turned on, FP relay pin 86 gets 12+ v. So I want to determine why the DME isn't sending ground to pin 85 on the FP relay when the key is turned.
Until the pump runs when the key is turned, nothing else matters, it's not going to run.
Please don't take this as argumentative, I do appreciate all input, just explaining why the fuel pump is my main concern at the moment.
#70
Rennlist Member
I understand all that and will verify what I can, but at this point I know for sure the fuel pump isn't coming on. That's why it's my main focus at the moment.
Since I can jump the relay and it comes on and I can put the relay back in and turn it on with Durametric, it appears that the pump, fuse, relay and wiring is all good for the pump.
I have confirmed when the key is turned on, FP relay pin 86 gets 12+ v. So I want to determine why the DME isn't sending ground to pin 85 on the FP relay when the key is turned.
Until the pump runs when the key is turned, nothing else matters, it's not going to run.
Please don't take this as argumentative, I do appreciate all input, just explaining why the fuel pump is my main concern at the moment.
Since I can jump the relay and it comes on and I can put the relay back in and turn it on with Durametric, it appears that the pump, fuse, relay and wiring is all good for the pump.
I have confirmed when the key is turned on, FP relay pin 86 gets 12+ v. So I want to determine why the DME isn't sending ground to pin 85 on the FP relay when the key is turned.
Until the pump runs when the key is turned, nothing else matters, it's not going to run.
Please don't take this as argumentative, I do appreciate all input, just explaining why the fuel pump is my main concern at the moment.
#71
Advanced
Thread Starter
Currently removing plastic covers in the driver door sill so I can un-tape the harness. Haven’t looked for weld points in there, it was under water so maybe something in there burnt in half while grounded in water.
#72
I would be inclined to check the subsystems that signal the dme to block engine run .Three come to mind- airbags -rollover -burglar alarm .Manny years ago a renlister had a no start issue that turned out to be the steering wheel was not installed and tripped the airbag fault. Since the dme checked out as good by ecu doctors and you can activate the fuel pump via durametric but can't activate with the key seems like dme has a no run condition set .Another question would be the key and imobilizer compatibility -don't know if ecu doctors checked that .
#73
Advanced
Thread Starter
I would be inclined to check the subsystems that signal the dme to block engine run .Three come to mind- airbags -rollover -burglar alarm .Manny years ago a renlister had a no start issue that turned out to be the steering wheel was not installed and tripped the airbag fault. Since the dme checked out as good by ecu doctors and you can activate the fuel pump via durametric but can't activate with the key seems like dme has a no run condition set .Another question would be the key and imobilizer compatibility -don't know if ecu doctors checked that .
The no start due to Airbag module is a prime candidate since mine was toast. I was thinking if the donor module had deployed the bags maybe it can tell DME no start until it’s reset. Also seen some say it has to be married to the car by VIN. You would think Duramtric would report that though, it sees the Airbag module & claims it’s error free.
I’ve seen Airbag module cloning services & am considering it just to rule it out. Hoping the Foxwell device does a better job of diagnosing than Duramtric.
If anyone can confirm the Airbag module can create a No Start condition on the DME that would be great. I would definitely have it cloned or reprogrammed if mine is too far gone to clone.