ltusler

Looks like it may be bore scored already. I'd jump the FPR, button it back up and hit it with starting fluid and see if it runs.

Porschenstein

Cylinder leak down test were really bad, 30% to 60% loss on all cylinders. Mostly from the exhaust valves but I could hear / see the leaking air from intake valves and oil filler tube as well.
Now the tough decision to move forward with a used motor or send her back to the graveyard... Leaning towards the graveyard, already out 10K plus almost a year of labor.
Too bad I didn't start with the engine, I was trying to will it into working out by repairing everything but the motor, fatal mistake.

dcdrechsel

Different perspective :The really tedious part of the job ( wiring) is done .Now it's pretty straightforward find a motor and bolt it in .I would drain the transmission oil to check for water intrusion -probably not but .....

allcool

Have you considered a swap, LS or 2.7t...?
If the car body/suspension/interior/etc, is decent/good, why not swap in a cheap 2.7t or boneyard LS..? You seem like a pretty handy DIY type that would excel in a DIY swap. Be nice to have a 450hp 996.1

Porschenstein

The main reason I'm hesitant to keep spending money is because it's a salvage title. Until it's repaired and passes inspection I can't register the car.
I'm worried I'll have a ton of money in and for some reason I can't get a title, then I'm really screwed. Looking at a 2001 C4 as a replacement, just need to get 5-6K back out of this one first.

I've definitely thought a lot about it, first choice would be get a Jake Raby street performance rebuild on this one, else maybe a used motor.
I like the Renegade Hybrid LS idea but it's just a different power curve and probably the most money of any choice. I really like the feel of the H6 that belongs in the car.
I like the 2.7t idea but that would probably require ECU and wiring changes.

Actually I think I would fail inspection with anything other than original engine from same year 996 donor. Of course if it's the 3.4 they don't even need to know I swapped the engine.

hardtailer

The leak test numbers are indeed not very inspiring but if it were mine, I'd get the engine running and drive it (where you can legally do so without registration) in order to give piston rings and valves a chance to seat as well as they can given the engine has sat for so long. Might not improve much but you don't have anything to lose by doing so.

robrizzo

1999 996 Cabriolet crank not start
Fuel pump not prime but works and I jump it when I try to start. Replaced relay
CPS new and replaced. no Tach Bounce
Ignition switch fine
New Battery. Checked all grounds check every single fuse in car (good)
No Spark. fuel only goes when I jump relay. (pressure at rail)
swapped relays DME.
only thing I am down to send out immobilizer ECU and Keys (new batteries) even thou keys work and locks work

Anything I should check? Advice? I removed the ECU and immobilizer and keys and under seat to Fedex out to Specialized ECU repair
HELP

Porschenstein

I did that, it’s good to rule out but the engine won’t turn over if the immobilizer is bad. I plan to rent a PIWIS 3 very soon and will post what it finds. I’m pretty sure it will be a fuel system related sensor that’s failed or no/low voltage on a pin that the ECU needs to run the engine. My engine is probably bad but I can’t say for sure until the fuel pump issues are resolved. I’m still not convinced the SRS Module isn’t the issue.

Porschenstein

I'm not sure what I'm looking at here, DME / Actual Values / Drive Links
Curious if anyone with real PIWIS experience knows if these are things preventing the DME from allowing the car to run?

Thanks,

JohnCA58

Those are use for doing emission test and letting you know it ready to take and have smog test done, all the parameters would say ready. This does not prevent you from starting the vehicle. have a look under Fault Codes and list what your seeing.

Porschenstein

There are no errors present, here is the VAL from the PIWIS. I marked what I found concerning. It doesn't seem to be a physical issue, the fuel pump and wiring are fine.
For whatever reason the DME will not turn on the fuel pump, I think it's in a no start state, and still suspect the used SRS module.
I tried to unlock it and lock it to my car in engineering mode, don't think it can be done. (as the dealer already said)

Vehicle Analysis Log attached in PDF format

Dr_flokk

Why not try to rebuild this engine since you got yourself so deep. into it.
Also I might have missed the response since it is such a long thread, did you end up cloning the airbag module?
I am working on a similar project, feel free to DM

Porschenstein

I wasn’t able to clone it, had the chips specs and eeprom programmer but couldn’t read it. I also moved the chip from mine to a donor but it wasn’t seen by the PIWIS when installed. I’ve determined the lock on the module appears to be model not VIN, I told the PIWIS to lock it and it briefly shows Model 996 before it said it’s already locked.

I took it to a prominent Indy in Atl a few days ago, they couldn’t get it going. Their analysis was the wiring harness is too far gone and must be replaced. The CAN bus is very sensitive to resistance and this harnesses was flooded in saltwater for several days or even weeks possibly.

I’m going to try to do a more thorough repair on the harness or replace it.

Dr_flokk

I guess I was more lucky, I got mine started within like one year, however, I replaced: ecu, immobilizer, various relays, some latches, I am still finding all kind of electrical issues, AC control was dead, radio is gone.
Alternator was not charging, however with a jumper wire to keep the fuel pump running mine started right up - unlike yours mine was turning nicely by hand.
My airbag module is corroded pretty good so now it is completely taken out. I saw some listings on ebay of people cloning it, I have yet to try that - the reason I am mentioning this is that mine also refuses to send commands to the fuel pump relay.…
While I was writing this I decided to used my scanner to send commands to the relay … somehow it seems to have jiggled the relay back? either that or it got stuck on or something .. like keeping it on once I manually actuated it?
For the most part my harness seems ok, it is mostly the connectors/terminals that suffered but they seem to behave pretty good after some cleaning.
I did try with ECU cloning and that worked marvelously( I saved some money that way - it ended up being much less than what Ecu Docs quoted me) - I still had to send it to them for the Immo marriage.
Here is some alternator turbo noise.
And the first start