pdxmotorhead

I would also consider going through the relays and bench test the fuel pump relay, the master relay, the ECu relay IIRC they are all the same part number.
I use a socket from the autoparts store for the 5 pin bosche relay, I have the socket wired to a light bulb for the load. Makes it quick.
These cars are getting older and the relays do age eventually.

Porschenstein

Something else I thought of is that the Airbag control module has been swapped with same part# from a donor. I've seen posts saying it was swapped and worked fine and others saying it has to be reset / married to the car. Would that cause the DME to not let it start, or just throw a warning? Original got wet, wasn't seen by Durametric, new one is seen & error free according to Durametric.

pdxmotorhead

Did your driver side floor get wet? Many evils come from that..

Porschenstein

Yes, donor immobilizer as well, but entire set has been verified good by Specialized ECU Repair aka ECU Doctors.

pdxmotorhead

you might go over the ECY connections and make sure the pins are all seated correctly in the male and female connections to the ecu..
One loose pin could be a heck of a gremlin.

Porschenstein

Yes, the x59's looked good, but I still cleaned them with Deoxit. I think I will revisit the connections between the front & rear harness in the step plate / door jams. They were both pretty bad.
I repaired the broken ones & cleaned it up but it I'm thinking I may still have low or no voltage on something. Fuel pump relay and relays 1,2 and 7 in the back have all been confirmed good. (and getting near battery voltage at all 4 of these relays 12.4v)
(this is after 1st cleanup to see what I was dealing with) All broken pins repaired, all green is gone but so is most of the plating)

jumpy chunky

Deoxit also makes a G-series spray called gold G5.
Supposed to condition gold surfaces, enhance electrical connections. might help

Did you ever get a chance to check for voltage at coils and injectors?
In the run position the coils for example should have 12 volts if the
relay is working.

Porschenstein

Thanks, no I haven't checked the injectors yet but will as soon as I have time. After I repair & clean or even re-connect anything I'm coating it with Stabilant 22a.
I will check the coils also, hasn't been high on the list since I appear to have spark.
I have a friend coming to visit this week, my plan is to recruit him to help me test stuff, should be easier with a helper.

Porschenstein

Why Porschenstein? I dug her out of the graveyard and I'm trying to bring her back to life.

Porschenstein

Porschenstein

I checked the coil voltage. Ignition on the whole time (3-4min), checked in order.
Battery start 13.3v
#1 12.8v
#2 12.7v
#3 12.6v
#4 12.4v
#5 12.4v
#6 12.4v
battery end 12.6v

jumpy chunky

In your previous post looks like you swapped fuse panels. Was your car in a flood possibly?

Anyways looks like you’ve replaced and cleaned a lot of wire connections.

Alright seems like your coils have juice. Did you use the ground at the coil plug or just the engine metal? You may need to check ground points 10 and 11 unless you checked at coil end for ground.

otherwise the DME is the component that tells the coil to fire. The reason I question the coil circuit is that you tried starting fluid and that didn’t help with ignition.
Might be easiest to try again when your help shows.

Porschenstein

I have confirmed ground at GP10 & 11. When testing coils I grounded directly to the battery. I can re-test grounding at GP10 & 11 if that matters. I was just out checking relay voltage again, It seems all voltage at the involved relays is fine.
Looking at relay2-1 MFI-DI, seems it closes and I do have 12.4v at pin 86 RE/BL, just as expected. But I'm not sure where to look beyond the relay on pin 86. It seems to interconnect with others at [26] on the diagram. Them goes to a few
different places. Far right from [26] goes to X2/5 pin8 then to radiator fans. Center from [26] to Hot Film Air-Mass Meter. Center left from [26] to pin54 on ECU UB Switched (This seems like it may be it since this pin appears to trigger air/fuel components)
Left / Center from [26] to X59/1. Is [26] just a reference point or is that an actual spot that I can find all these wires coming together & test? My main interest at this pint is ECU pin 54 UB Switched, according to ECU Doc's the ECU was installed in a 996 and works fine.
I guess next spot to check voltage is ECU connector at pin 54? Any help understanding where all this RE/BL wire is going and where to check voltage is greatly appreciated.

Yes, she was flooded in Hurricane Ian and I have cut many wires. But I am confident in my work on these wires and everything electrical that I test works fine. I can activate Fans, Air Pump, Windows, Locks, Lighting, everything basically through Durametric and they work.
Outside of Durametric, chimes, lights, blinkers, radio, ac fan, windows, horn, again, everything electrical besides fuel & air management seems to work fine.

Here's where I'm looking at [26], seems like 3 activated relays (pin86) converge and split from here.

Porschenstein

Porschenstein