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Thanks porschetech3, that gives me some piece of mind, not to save any oil and the cost, but it could be worse! I suppose im used to adding the qt after 6 years of doing so.
I don't pull a horse trailer, but we do have a family of five and when the aren't in it going to and from work, I don't baby it!
Using Ceratec won't affect oil consumption. If you switch to DT40 as you mentioned then you don't need to use Ceratec anymore.
Your oil consumption is constant for a long time. I would just be like the horse trailer customer Porschetech had and keep adding a quart every 1,000 miles. It's not really hurting anything but I would change the oil frequently because if you have rings with tension too low then you will get more blow-by and fuel contamination in your oil.
Charles is correct , I recall having a female customer who had a Turbo Cheyenne back in 2005 that was using 1qt per 1k miles ( she pulled a Horse Trailer a lot of times) and she would never open the hood . She would bring it by the Dealership everytime the low oil light would come on, every 1k miles ,and we would add 1.0-1.5 qt oil to her Cayenne Turbo..lol
We did investigate the issue by doing a compression test, leak down test, recorded and documented the issue, did a bore scope of the cylinders, ( everything was in specs)and even replaced the complete AOS/crankcase ventilation system with no change in oil consumption...and was within the Porsche specs, so Porsche was not willing at that time do authorize anything further..
We even offered to give her a few cases of oil so she would not have to come to the Dealership for a top off, but she refused to even open the hood...lol
So we gave her "drive through" privileges to just drive into the shop to get a top off every month/ 1k miles...lol
This lasted for 30k miles...30 qts oil added...not counting the regular OCI's ,, and she was nice about it, but eventually she traded for a newer Cheyenne Turbo ( that didn't have the issue) , then Porsche did finally come out with the TSB about the issue with the rings..( and did replace some engines) ..but was too late to help this particular Customer...
Okay, you left out a very important detail to this story - was she hot? In other words, did you (and the other techs) look forward to adding some oil to her "spicy SUV" or did you just have the newbie/shop sweeper perform this mundane task?
Okay, you left out a very important detail to this story - was she hot? In other words, did you (and the other techs) look forward to adding some oil to her "spicy SUV" or did you just have the newbie/shop sweeper perform this mundane task?
Well lets just say that she was very easy on the eyes, and since she was a connoisseur of fine Horses , she knew the value of a good Stud...
Yup, I recommend it a few times in here. Per Lake Speed Jr. it has one of the highest concentrations of PEA (more than Chevron or Fuel Defender). One thing I noticed is that it keeps on working even when the car is not running. Whatever product ends up in the carbon, it starts to soften it up to the point where I would puff some smoke on start up as it burns off. The smoke would go away within a few seconds and not smoke under normal operation. The piston tops look almost new after running a bottle or two.
Yup, I recommend it a few times in here. Per Lake Speed Jr. it has one of the highest concentrations of PEA (more than Chevron or Fuel Defender). One thing I noticed is that it keeps on working even when the car is not running. Whatever product ends up in the carbon, it starts to soften it up to the point where I would puff some smoke on start up as it burns off. The smoke would go away within a few seconds and not smoke under normal operation. The piston tops look almost new after running a bottle or two.
SeaFoam Spray has been my Go-To combustion cleaner for over 40 years, used like this https://seafoami.com/knowledge-base/...ea-foam-spray/ . I have cured many an "engine knock" by cleaning carbon from heavily coated piston crowns and chambers. Some will get so bad the carbon build-up will hit the head and cause a knocking sound. After the procedure they would smoke like hell on the restart and subsequent drive, but then clear up with no smoking. If you remember, Loius here had a knock on his 99 996 that every one said was bore score, then I told him to try cleaning with SeaFoam... @TexSquirrel did the cleaning and it stopped the knock...
But after seeing how good this Redline Si-1 product did on your car, and it also has an upper cylinder lubricant ( Ester?) , and an octane boost/fuel stabilizer, and is just a "pour in the tank" one tank solution, I am rethinking my go-to product for this carbon deposit problem..
That pic I posted of my cyliner 7 or 8, cant remember which, was a few hundred miles after using redline Si-1,funny you should mention!
i felt my pistons were petty clean as the pic shows, aside from the little oil puddle, just some sporadic deposits at the center, for having 98,000 miles. I should have taken some before pics.
i used CRC gdi intake valve claener, half a can then the redline si-1 for a full tank, then a normal tank, then i changed the plugs and took the pics with the boroscope. Then an oil change. I feel over the years of using some of these fuel system cleanets is they can create build up on the plugs so i replace them after a big cleanup.
ive used bg40k in the past, at 50k, then techron a few times between then and now. And italian tune ups every day, lol.
i used the si-1 cause I heard the sane about the pea anount and good results, hoping to help clean the combustion chamber and rings in the process.
Last edited by Corvetteboy6988; 12-24-2023 at 01:07 PM.
I’m getting some conflicting info on the start up/warm up procedures of our cars. I do this for all my cars 2018 Alltrack, 2007 S4, and 2004 C4S, all stock motors, start it up > wait for idle to drop (which is not long, maybe a minute) then drive immediately. The manual says be ready to drive immediately, which I take as start it up and go. @Charles Navarro is there a definitive guide? What are others doing?
I’m getting some conflicting info on the start up/warm up procedures of our cars. I do this for all my cars 2018 Alltrack, 2007 S4, and 2004 C4S, all stock motors, start it up > wait for idle to drop (which is not long, maybe a minute) then drive immediately. The manual says be ready to drive immediately, which I take as start it up and go. @Charles Navarro is there a definitive guide? What are others doing?
Usually I will start the car and drive it immediately, just being sure to limit rpm and throttle input until the engine is fully warmed up. If it's really cold out, I might let the engine idle 10-15 seconds, but waiting until the engine is off cold start / fast idle is likely too long.
Always like to hear what others do. I start the car and drive it immediately, I don't let it idle at all not even a few seconds. This applies to all my cars and I believe the 2007 S4 is an Alusil block as well. I just got out of dinner and it's cold here. Started the car and drove right off.......
I want to be like Bruce in Atlanta and say the reason I do it is because I have a creative imagination But my logic is as follows: Ideally you always want the engine to be at operating temperature. And modern engines force that to get the cats hot as fast as possible. The fastest way to get it there on cold start is to apply load to the engine not to idle it. So start driving it right away but I keep it under ~3K RPM until it's at operating temperature. Then off to the races....
Always like to hear what others do. I start the car and drive it immediately, I don't let it idle at all not even a few seconds. This applies to all my cars and I believe the 2007 S4 is an Alusil block as well. I just got out of dinner and it's cold here. Started the car and drove right off.......
I want to be like Bruce in Atlanta and say the reason I do it is because I have a creative imagination But my logic is as follows: Ideally you always want the engine to be at operating temperature. And modern engines force that to get the cats hot as fast as possible. The fastest way to get it there on cold start is to apply load to the engine not to idle it. So start driving it right away but I keep it under ~3K RPM until it's at operating temperature. Then off to the races....
I believe you are correct with alusil in the S4 as such I was acting the same with both and my behaviors has passed down to the wife’s Allltrack. East TN is cold as well these days and sounds like I’ll be driving off immediately while short shifting to 3k until oil is at operating temp.
12-19-2023, 11:25 PM
But my logic is as follows: Ideally you always want the engine to be at operating temperature. And modern engines force that to get the cats hot as fast as possible. The fastest way to get it there on cold start is to apply load to the engine not to idle it. So start driving it right away but I keep it under ~3K RPM until it's at operating temperature. Then off to the races....
