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Thanks for the display mount @yaz996 - On a day where I spent way too long to do way too little your mount just went right on, perfect.
Turbo rads.... Ughhh, at least for me, totally not a just bolt them up experience. Took forever just to figure out how the brackets were to be bolted to the car, once I got them on it became apparent why it was so hard to figure out how they were supposed to go on because a number of the bracket mounts either did not line up nicely or were just floating with nothing to bolt them to. In the end, I got a method that worked but it took forever. Center rad... turns out although the left and right turbo rads are the same between 996 and 997, the center rad is different, this is important because the brackets I bought to mount the center rad were for the 996 - I have 997 rads...Doh ! I figured the center would be the same as the 996 and never verified, so, the right brackets have been ordered and I am fully planning to have to modify them to get the center rad bolted on also.
Finish up the mounting of the radiators (not plumbed, thats gonna be fun)...
For anyone wondering, the turbo rads make the C2 parts look downright puny
Got the single rad fan mounted and wired in, this officially completes all the wiring for the front of the car.
Shifted to the back, completed the mounting of the trans cooler by securing it with actual hardware, also got it wired in.
Next up, got the coolant pipe that will feed the oil cooler cut, length came out really good and this setup looks very promising, it may actually work.
I had originally planned to have the pipe bead rolled by a local fabricator but he didn't end up having a die for a 1.5in pipe. this kind of put me in a spot and I ended up buying a bead roller off amazon last night, this is now the gating item to put the engine back in the car because...
Got the harness sections that need to be on the motor on and bolted the headers on for good...
The light at the end of the build the car tunnel is emerging.
Today was a good day - DelewAaron showed up and as could be expected, **** went down.
Trans cooler pump installed (thanks Aaron)
Coolant pipe to oil cooler bead rolled and installed (I messed up the pipe, Aaron fixed it, thanks Aaron)
Kill switch external button wired and system function checked
Oil cooler fasteners installed (thanks Aaron)
And... it's in - for good (at least, thats the plan and hope)
And then, extracurricular activities ensued. Today was a good day to be me, hanging out with my good buddy and my boy working on a race car and some beers by the fire to celebrate a milestone in the assembly of this car with a bad *** backdrop.
It's an Aaron extravaganza up in here - today MaAaron came over... my friends are the coolest. Aaron plumbed in the .1 ABS with new custom lines and adapted the ABS to the .2 distribution block, it came out so good.
While he was doing that, I was insulating the headers, I forgot to do this before the engine went in the car without them done. Luckily, its about as easy to pull the LS headers as it was the Porsche ones with the added benefit, wasn't worried about snapping any bolts in the head. I was really happy with how they came out. It's not what I would want in an ideal world (I want the header shield system - it is by far the best you can get) but these headers aren't my ideal headers - so for while they are on the car - this will work.
We both finished up about the same time and shifted efforts to figuring out the cooling system on the engine side - Aaron brought over a metric **** ton of radiator hoses to play with and we were able to use them to get very far in the plumbing. Still some work to do but just getting as much figured out as we did is a big hurdle.
You can see some of what we're planning in the pic below, the engine is starting to look pretty cool in there
It's an Aaron extravaganza up in here - today MaAaron came over... my friends are the coolest. Aaron plumbed in the .1 ABS with new custom lines and adapted the ABS to the .2 distribution block, it came out so good.
While he was doing that, I was insulating the headers, I forgot to do this before the engine went in the car without them done. Luckily, its about as easy to pull the LS headers as it was the Porsche ones with the added benefit, wasn't worried about snapping any bolts in the head. I was really happy with how they came out. It's not what I would want in an ideal world (I want the header shield system - it is by far the best you can get) but these headers aren't my ideal headers - so for while they are on the car - this will work.
We both finished up about the same time and shifted efforts to figuring out the cooling system on the engine side - Aaron brought over a metric **** ton of radiator hoses to play with and we were able to use them to get very far in the plumbing. Still some work to do but just getting as much figured out as we did is a big hurdle.
You can see some of what we're planning in the pic below, the engine is starting to look pretty cool in there
A question that had come up previously, for which I had no answer... what an I doing for an intake setup... Well, finally I have an answer, this is what I plan to do.
I talked to my engine tuner who said he could tune the engine in speed density, this gets rid of the requirement for a MAF sensor. Airflow is accounted for instead using the already present MAP sensor (the p is for pressure). Getting rid of the MAF was important because where my routing was going to go was not going to allow for a straight section of tubing to give the MAF good airflow. Ideally, the tube you see will connect at the fender sheet metal where it will meet a union, on the other side of the union in the fender area will be an air filter. Thats the plan for now and will get more detailed as pieces end up where they are going to be.
Trans cooler plumbing is almost done, the return side is good. Out of the pump and into the cooler (the little hose) and out of the pump into the trans. The system will return into the trans from the factory fill port using a M22x1.5 to 8AN adapter. The feed to the pump will use a M22x1.5 banjo to 8AN adapter at the trans drain, this is a pretty funky fitting with lackluster availability. As such, I am waiting on it to arrive after buying the wrong thing the first go around (a common tale at this point). The thing thats important here is that fitting will be very near, or the actual low point of the car, hence the reason of going with a banjo fitting in the first place. Whats kind of funny is Setrab (who make the cooler) actually use an M22x1.5 for the thread size/pitch on their cooler. So I am using the same setrab fitting that is on the cooler, on the transmission. And while setrab does make a banjo fitting that will bolt on, it is a really funky giant shape, almost 2 inches from the flange to the top of the fitting, this would be useless for me so I had to track down the one other MFG I saw that made this fitting - a good old amazon special. It will be here late this week and the trans cooler will be done. You know its funky when you get it off amazon and it takes a week to get it, like the old days.
In the pic below you can see @De Jeeper ' s handy Tilton pump mounting - the bolts suck to get to Aaron ... but hopefully it will only have to come out one more time to get the last fitting tight.
Finally @theprf AKA MaAaron is working hard for me on the cooling side, in the past couple days we think we have got the cooling system almost all the way figured out - bought a bunch of Porsche parts today for the front of the car, hopefully they will get here soon. I am so appreciative of his help.
This is probably a dumb question but -does the transmission banjo fitting you ordered flow enough with the high viscosity trans oil .There might be areasom they used a big clunky fitting
Not dumb as far as I’m concerned and I don’t know with enough certainty to feel good about answering the question.
The description for the fitting does direct its use to Setrab coolers so I am hopeful but will see. I anticipate the trans oil filling process to be fill the trans with oil, run the pump to prime the cooling system and top the oil the the trans up, maybe if there is an issue, I will be able to see it through crappy flow then.
Not dumb as far as I’m concerned and I don’t know with enough certainty to feel good about answering the question.
The description for the fitting does direct its use to Setrab coolers so I am hopeful but will see. I anticipate the trans oil filling process to be fill the trans with oil, run the pump to prime the cooling system and top the oil the the trans up, maybe if there is an issue, I will be able to see it through crappy flow then.
Radium makes quality banjo fittings with higher flow rates than typical. The Amazon specials don’t last, I tested a few of them on my remote oil filter setup. They started leaking at the swivel joint, it’s too loose. Just a FYI. I only use name brand AN and other fittings now such as Radium or Vibrant. Those Amazon fittings will fail.
Routing and all your other work looks great. Hoping you have enough air flow back there for your coolers to be effective.
Radium makes quality banjo fittings with higher flow rates than typical. The Amazon specials don’t last, I tested a few of them on my remote oil filter setup. They started leaking at the swivel joint, it’s too loose. Just a FYI. I only use name brand AN and other fittings now such as Radium or Vibrant. Those Amazon fittings will fail.
Routing and all your other work looks great. Hoping you have enough air flow back there for your coolers to be effective.
Radium doesn’t make a M22x1.5 banjo, either does anyone else I could locate that actually would have any for months… Id love to be wrong on that, but don’t think I am. I’m with you on quality hose ends, all the other ones for trans cooler are goodridge but this is what it is. In the event it’s really problematic I will beg Aaron to machine me one or see if someone from work can help me out.
The only cooler in the back that needs air is the trans cooler pictured. It’s got a spal fan in a shroud and my bumper is fairly well mutilated. Based on what I could see from pictures when the car was moving, even with the holes the airflow was doing it’s best to rip the bumper off the car, at least enough flow to do that.
And thanks for the look over, you’ve been there done that so it’s appreciated.
The banjo fitting Achilles heel is hose movement .A good bracket to prevent hose movement at fitting usually works .Sounds like your test plan will verify flow .
Radium doesn’t make a M22x1.5 banjo, either does anyone else I could locate that actually would have any for months… Id love to be wrong on that, but don’t think I am. I’m with you on quality hose ends, all the other ones for trans cooler are goodridge but this is what it is. In the event it’s really problematic I will beg Aaron to machine me one or see if someone from work can help me out.
The only cooler in the back that needs air is the trans cooler pictured. It’s got a spal fan in a shroud and my bumper is fairly well mutilated. Based on what I could see from pictures when the car was moving, even with the holes the airflow was doing it’s best to rip the bumper off the car, at least enough flow to do that.
And thanks for the look over, you’ve been there done that so it’s appreciated.
Jason,
Reach out to :
Specialty Bolt and Screw
Flyn-Mar
Fln-mar deals with hydraulic fittings and always seems to be able to find what is needed. Specialty bolt also has a strange assortment but might require a min order amount.
Trans cooler is done - just need to secure the lines. M22x1.5 banjo to 8AN female to male adapter with a 1/8NPT port for my temp sensor. Straight fitting out of that to a 90 feeding the scavenge filter. Straight out of the scavenge filter to a 90 into the pump. 90 out of the pump to a 120 into the cooler. 90 out of the cooler to a 90 back into the trans hopefully spraying those gears down with nice cool oil.
And the big huge news - the dry sump tank brackets MaAaron made are in the house - THANK YOU Aaron ! They are art.
The end of the mount the dry sump tank problem is here and I am relieved. If you will remember, I used mock-up parts to mount the tank and get the lines situated. Then, Aaron said he would make the mounts and we (very much mostly he) came up with a design to take the place of my mock up stuff. Well - when the difference between work and don't work is so fine as with the 2 shorter lines (feed and return), it takes very little to bring you back to square one.
So, today I fitted the mounts and got the tank mounted, although it is not in the same place it was, it is in the same'ish place enough so those 2 lines still work.The tank mounting strength well exceeds anything I can imagine it having to endure so I will not fear it becoming a missile in the cabin should I take a tumble.
There are a couple parts on the car that are a tad unique or hard to find and are needed to get the recipe I want, but these mounts are literally one of one and the only solution to accomplish what I wanted, so, without Aaron making them the entire dry sump system would have to be revised.
Between these mounts and all the stuff MaAaron has helped with and days he spent here helping, Yaz knocking the display mount out of the park, DelewAaron getting more done in an evening than I do in a weekend... I'm super lucky to have these guys as friends and their help with the project - you guys rule.
06-08-2023, 10:22 PM
... but hopefully it will only have to come out one more time to get the last fitting tight.
