I actually disconnected the A/C lines after getting that third bolt out. Didn't know my engine had the fuel lines routed thru it until after the fact.

As for the knock sensors, found the Bosch ones at FCP Euro for $23 each. The shipping delay was because I added some cheap bolts to my order that weren't actually in stock. Oh well. Weather wasn't going to be conducive to installing the engine this weekend anyway. And there's a good chance I'll be waiting on my state DMV before I can hit the road, so no rush at this point.

Definitely wish I had taken more pics of every last bolt and bracket that I removed. Probably have questions for you throughout the week.

 

No worries. Bring 'em.

Wish I had checked FCP on that. Looking forward to your secret code list. But now that have ordered almost all that I foresee needing, it might not pay off as much as it could...

 

Don't think these are that secret, but this is what I've had success with:

10% off at Warehouse 33 by using RENNLIST at checkout. No sales tax.
10% off at FVD Brombacher using Renn10 at checkout.
10% off at Top Gear UK using 911UK.
5% off at GetPorscheParts.com (until May 1st) using RENNLIST320 at checkout. No sales tax, but shipping is overpriced unless the order is $300+.
25% off ($15 or more) at Advanced Auto using RMN25
For PartsGeek orders over $300, use SAVE15 for $15 off.
10% off initial order from Pelican by signing up for newsletter or once per year as PCA member.

Also FCP Euro runs promos occasionally (last one was $25 off $250 around the holidays), but nothing consistent.

I've cross shopped everything, but in general I've found GetPorscheParts.com (relative to the other dealerships i.e. Suncoast, Sonnen, Sunset...) has the best prices for anything that's a Genuine only part (like my replacement front console, hoses, brackets, misplaced locating piins/dowels, etc). Anything with OEM alternatives, its usually been a toss up between Warehouse 33 and FCP Euro, but FCP's lifetime guarantee tips the scales for any wear items.

 

So I'm not quite as sorted out on the vacuum system as I thought. Seems the combo of the 3 and 4 way connectors (vs 2 of the 3 ways) leaves me with an extra opening. Everything is routed according to the diagram (thru the appropriate check and change over valves) I posted a couple days ago. But I'm still left with an open end that can be seen near the AOS in the photo below (with the short line and rubber elbow). I don't have any extra vacuum line from the engine tear down (wish I had more pics, but didn't throw anything out).

Anyone have any thoughts? Should I just plug it, or swap the 4 way for 3 way? Another thought is routing it to the vacuum line on the 3.8 air box I recently snagged, but I'm guessing that requires some additional modification.

 

 

not sure if these help but its how my 3.4l is. The first pic open Y goes to the second pic change over valve, my thin plastic tube broke. One port goes to accumulator, 3rd hose goes foward to 3rd pic.

Third pic is the single hose from pic 1 going into the rear of the car. The second port goes to the check valve and the 3rd to the rear most change over valve.

Im thinking u have to block off the 4th port or get another 3 way?

Where hose 29 and 30 go in this pet drawing seems to be the difference. Maybe someone with a newer motor can look.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=108-05
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Dont know why the hyperlink wont work or copy but ​​​​​​the pet is from the autoatlanta site


edit: looking at your diagram, u need another plenum boot with a port and hook the check valve up differently.

 

Does this help?

 

Thanks. So didn't mean that I'm routed exactly like the diagram, but thru the appropriate valves. I've got the check valve after the 3 way. In the diagram I posted, Wayne has the extra/plugged port on the 3 way (directly connected to the 4 way). In my current setup, the would-be extra/plugged port is on the 4 way. Same functional flow diagram.

 

Confirmation for setup vacuum lines to the resonance flap and rubber intake sleeves. Still can't imagine how I could have an open port to those vacuum lines and never gotten any related codes.

 

Did u have the 4 and 3 way or just the 3 ways originally? If just the 3 ways u would not have had an open port.

 

4 way and 3 way originally. Think I just found the evidence I needed...

 

me too... one if the ports on the 3 way should be plugged and the check valve should be brought back to the 4 way per that drawing a page up.

 

Deep dive into my teardown photos...

[random typing sounds]...ENHANCE...[more random typing sounds]...ENHANCE...[sound of beer cracking open]...What do we have here?!?


Weird angle, but that's too far back to be attached to the vacuum reservoir.

Different angle after I pulled the AOS. Looks to be a cap on the end of the rubber elbow.

 

FWIW, you do know that there is a vacuum schematic on a label, for your particular system, under the rear lid?

 

Unfortunately, there isn't even a Mobil 1 sticker under my deck lid. I have found the deck lid vacuum diagram for a 2001 MY (consistent with everything else I've been seeing), but the engine has a 2000 date so I'll do some more digging.