Thanks. Kept the tool simple. Actually used some of the the flywheel bolts as guides while lighting tapping with a rubber mallet until the seal was completely off the protective cover and onto the shaft. And then used those same flywheel bolts and some old valve springs to get it fully seated at the 13mm depth. I'll rig it back up for some pics when the engine is back off the stand.

 

And Skip delivered right on time. Hope to have the UAOS on this weekend.

 

Is Jake a whiskey guy? Should probably send a bottle of something down his way for how easy he makes the cam timing...

 

Still need to put in the plugs and oil pumps, but think I deserve a beer or three. Visually verified intake valve timing on all cylinders before calling it a night.

 

That's perfect! Nice work. I used a peanut butter jar lid and drilled 4 holes using the flywheel for the bolt pattern. The lip of the jar lid is a little on the thin side and I had to be careful when pressing on the seal. Your printed tool has a nice wide lip. Again, nice work.

 

Oil scavenge pumps are on. Added another little upgrade. Found a 997S vibration damper pulley on fleaBay for $110 including tax and shipping. With the accompanying combo bolt and washer/friction disk (which is only 0.005" thick) I'm all in for under $160. Figured if the factory felt the need to add it with the bump to 3.8, I should consider it as well.

 

Good idea to add the 3.8 crank pulley - every engine can benefit from this. If someone wants to run an underdrive pulley, RSS does have a harmonic dampening underdrive pulley:

https://lnengineering.com/rss-underd...ayman-911.html

 

Prep for the UAOS install by sealing up the atmosphere ports.

 

Spent some time researching the vacuum line routing. Auto Atlanta parts diagrams are useful, but they don't include where all those lines terminate. Most complete diagram I found was this one from Wayne Dempesy on the Pelican forums. Think its actually for a 986, and I don't have one side plugged on the three-way tee, but helpful none the less.

A- Fuel rail
B- Intake rubber sleeve with vacuum port (installed on the right side of throttle body)
C- Fuel pressure regulator on fuel rail
D- Air injection pump valve
E- Electronic vacuum solenoid valve for air injection pump valve
F- Vacuum reservoir
G- Four-way vacuum tee
H- Vacuum check valve (black side points toward the manifold)
I- Three-way vacuum tee (one side is plugged)
J- Electronic vacuum solenoid valve for resonance flap valve
K- Resonance flap valve
L- Intake rubber sleeve with vacuum port (installed on left side of throttle body)

 

Fyi im pretty sure thats a 3.6l diagram. My 3.4 and pics of others show a slightly different set up, i didnt have the 4 way connector on mine. My dealer couldnt pull up an accurate pet drawing for me. Im pretty sure if u were just ordering all new this set would work fine, but that 4 way connector is pricey. I saved a few bucks keeping it original with 2, 3 ways.

 

I've actually got a 4-way and 3-way connector with my setup (engine has 2000 build date and the fuel chiller). Think I've got everything accounted for at this point.

 

Steady progress over the weekend. Most of the time was spent looking at diagrams and pictures, but managed to get a few ancillary items on. Biggest hold up right now is actually the new knock sensors that I thought were going to be delivered a few days ago. Also decided to order a new oil cooler. Old one looks to be in decent shape but its original (so ~114k miles). Minimal effort and $100 to replace it now seems to be a reasonable price for the risk mitigation.

 

i got the oil cooler kit from fcp euro. The cooler came drop shipped from Worldpac and the o-rings and hose took a few days longer. i suspect they came from a dealer and were repacked. They did have the best pricing that i could find.

 

Good progress. You're getting close. I see you disconnected the A/C lines. I chose to keep mine intact. The trade off is between refilling the refrigerant versus installing that damn bolt toward the rear of the compressor.

I found Bosch knock sensors on Amazon for $35 each.

For what it's worth, I took lots of pictures so I can figure out where everything goes. Most are obvious, but some hose and line routing can be questionable.

 

Found that FCP Euro has great prices on a lot of stuff. Also like going thru them since they started off local to the area I've been living for the last 9 years. Even now they're just an 1+ down the road from me if I was really in a rush for a part (present circumstances excluded since they're currently not allowing order pickup).

I'll put together a post soon detailing where I've been sourcing most parts and what discount codes have been available.