The "Ultimate AOS Solution"
#556
Nordschleife Master
Not a answer exacty but......
the recomendation is that u should not install a uaos on a failed aos so u may not need an answer.
skip now provides a sealed aos with his kit so u should swap it out anyways and before u order anything i would not trust your "strong vacuum" i would test. No reason to throw parts at the car as its easy to verify.
the recomendation is that u should not install a uaos on a failed aos so u may not need an answer.
skip now provides a sealed aos with his kit so u should swap it out anyways and before u order anything i would not trust your "strong vacuum" i would test. No reason to throw parts at the car as its easy to verify.
#558
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Hello everyone,
I've been viewing this forum since last July when I purchased a 2001 C2 Cab M6. At the time it had 143k km on it and now its' up to 172k! Its' been a fantastic car (especially considering I paid $13,000 Canadian for it) and I drove it all winter without any issues. Anyway, last week I got the white smoke at startup so I checked the oil cap at idle and sure enough it is under extreme vacuum. I had been planning to do the UAOS anyway so this event has it now moved to the top of my list.
In advance of purchasing the kit, I crawled under my car to see if I could reach the AOS to seal the atmospheric ports. Yep, I could reach it however my AOS doesn't have the channel. The attached photo isn't mine but demonstrates how the one on my car is. Has anyone seen an AOS like this before? Any thoughts on where I should apply sealant?
I've been viewing this forum since last July when I purchased a 2001 C2 Cab M6. At the time it had 143k km on it and now its' up to 172k! Its' been a fantastic car (especially considering I paid $13,000 Canadian for it) and I drove it all winter without any issues. Anyway, last week I got the white smoke at startup so I checked the oil cap at idle and sure enough it is under extreme vacuum. I had been planning to do the UAOS anyway so this event has it now moved to the top of my list.
In advance of purchasing the kit, I crawled under my car to see if I could reach the AOS to seal the atmospheric ports. Yep, I could reach it however my AOS doesn't have the channel. The attached photo isn't mine but demonstrates how the one on my car is. Has anyone seen an AOS like this before? Any thoughts on where I should apply sealant?
But as De Jeeper said, you need to replace the AOS if it has already failed.
Buy one of Skip's pre-sealed AOSes and install it in place of your failed ones.
Who's picture is that above anyways.
They REALLY needed a new AOS!
#559
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
One very important thing a lot of people keep missing about the UAOS is, besides being very easy to service and much less expensive to service, it "constantly monitors for hydro-lock" .. The Accumulator with Infra -red sensor does this.
So even if your AOS is NEW or it tests OK, it can fail at any time and the only way you will know is if you see clouds of smoke, or your engines stalls, at that time you are " dodging the bullet" instead of "stopping the gun from firing."
I have designed the "monitoring system" so that if the oil accumulation reaches a dangerous level, the warning will flash.
I also designed it to "default to warning", meaning if anything in the system is not OK the warning will flash, if there is a loose connection the warning will flash, if the relay fails, the warning will flash, if the sensor fails, the warning will flash, and of course the main thing is if the oil accumulation is a dangerous level, the warning will flash. So basically, if the warning isn't flashing, the "watchdog" is on duty so you can have piece of mind and know that everything is OK..
I see a lot people saying they plan on getting the UAOS, but their AOS tests OK right now, and that's ok if you don't mind "dodging the bullet" instead of "disarming the bandit " that can take out your M96...Good thing the Bandit is a poor shot, we have seen many "dodge the bullet", but the Bandit hits maybe 1 in 25- 1 in 50? Maybe more? We have seen about 6 this year alone with "catastrophic failure" after AOS failure.
Like mentioned , everyone is getting the Pre-sealed AOS along with the UAOS, so you can just ask your Indy to install it. An old AOS may have dirt in it anyway if just a slight tear in the diaphragm..so a new Pre-sealed AOS is recommended..
So even if your AOS is NEW or it tests OK, it can fail at any time and the only way you will know is if you see clouds of smoke, or your engines stalls, at that time you are " dodging the bullet" instead of "stopping the gun from firing."
I have designed the "monitoring system" so that if the oil accumulation reaches a dangerous level, the warning will flash.
I also designed it to "default to warning", meaning if anything in the system is not OK the warning will flash, if there is a loose connection the warning will flash, if the relay fails, the warning will flash, if the sensor fails, the warning will flash, and of course the main thing is if the oil accumulation is a dangerous level, the warning will flash. So basically, if the warning isn't flashing, the "watchdog" is on duty so you can have piece of mind and know that everything is OK..
I see a lot people saying they plan on getting the UAOS, but their AOS tests OK right now, and that's ok if you don't mind "dodging the bullet" instead of "disarming the bandit " that can take out your M96...Good thing the Bandit is a poor shot, we have seen many "dodge the bullet", but the Bandit hits maybe 1 in 25- 1 in 50? Maybe more? We have seen about 6 this year alone with "catastrophic failure" after AOS failure.
Like mentioned , everyone is getting the Pre-sealed AOS along with the UAOS, so you can just ask your Indy to install it. An old AOS may have dirt in it anyway if just a slight tear in the diaphragm..so a new Pre-sealed AOS is recommended..
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#560
AutoX
Thanks PorscheTech for all the research and advice. I tested my crankcase vacuum and it measured -21 inH2O so clearly an AOS failure.
I went ahead and purchased an OEM regulator (not URO due to the backorder issues) from Rockauto. I’m happy to pay you your licensing fee for this solution but it seems you aren’t doing this any longer?
Anyway, After installing it (Without a catch can at this point) I am still measuring -8.3 inH2O vacuum at the oil fill. Have you measured your system to confirm it is within the Porsche design specs?
BTW - even with the still high crankcase vacuum, all AOS failure symptoms have ceased.
I went ahead and purchased an OEM regulator (not URO due to the backorder issues) from Rockauto. I’m happy to pay you your licensing fee for this solution but it seems you aren’t doing this any longer?
Anyway, After installing it (Without a catch can at this point) I am still measuring -8.3 inH2O vacuum at the oil fill. Have you measured your system to confirm it is within the Porsche design specs?
BTW - even with the still high crankcase vacuum, all AOS failure symptoms have ceased.
#561
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks PorscheTech for all the research and advice. I tested my crankcase vacuum and it measured -21 inH2O so clearly an AOS failure.
I went ahead and purchased an OEM regulator (not URO due to the backorder issues) from Rockauto. I’m happy to pay you your licensing fee for this solution but it seems you aren’t doing this any longer?
Anyway, After installing it (Without a catch can at this point) I am still measuring -8.3 inH2O vacuum at the oil fill. Have you measured your system to confirm it is within the Porsche design specs?
BTW - even with the still high crankcase vacuum, all AOS failure symptoms have ceased.
I went ahead and purchased an OEM regulator (not URO due to the backorder issues) from Rockauto. I’m happy to pay you your licensing fee for this solution but it seems you aren’t doing this any longer?
Anyway, After installing it (Without a catch can at this point) I am still measuring -8.3 inH2O vacuum at the oil fill. Have you measured your system to confirm it is within the Porsche design specs?
BTW - even with the still high crankcase vacuum, all AOS failure symptoms have ceased.
In the next month or so I will be releasing an "Elite Version UAOS" featuring an Aluminum Anodized Accumulator with stainless steel infra-red sensor and all OEM components..It will be a bit pricey but will be the "Best money can buy design"...
All of my tests and all the reports from people who have installed the UAOS, none has had readings as high as -8 inh20 ,EXCEPT for the tests I did on a "no name" elcheapo flow regulator.
P.S. the standard UAOS with Carbon Fiber/Nylon Accumulator and URO components will still be available at the same price..
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808Bill (06-23-2020)
#562
Nordschleife Master
I would keep an eye on that aos, u wouldnt be the first to get a bad, new unit. As a data point i am high 3's with the uaos on a 200k mile motor.
#563
Looking for parts for my yearly winter maintenance cycle.
Do you have a price and availability estimate on the aluminum / OEM based version? I might be interested, but depends on price. Will probably get one or the other.
Thanks!!!
Do you have a price and availability estimate on the aluminum / OEM based version? I might be interested, but depends on price. Will probably get one or the other.
Thanks!!!
#564
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The Aluminum Accumulator is coming off the CNC machine, it still needs to go to Anodizing and then assembly. It had to have a much different process to CNC the Accumulator, the overall design is the same dimensions, but a very different manufacturing process. Here is a pic of the front half of the Accumulator. It's beautiful as is but would definitely stand out..
What is the vote to leave "as is" or to black Anodize?? Or should I do both and leave a choice??
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jdbornem (06-25-2020)
#565
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I think you should do both.
I’m not sure which I prefer myself.
Since I don’t have to worry about a visual check during my annual inspection, I might want bare aluminum.
Bare aluminum is definitely going to be cheaper for you.
I’m not sure which I prefer myself.
Since I don’t have to worry about a visual check during my annual inspection, I might want bare aluminum.
Bare aluminum is definitely going to be cheaper for you.
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SoundnSpeed (06-25-2020)
#566
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Haven't seen the finished Anodized yet..
#567
The unfinished aluminum won't stay like that very long unless it's coated with something. Especially if you live by salt water.
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Doug996InKC (06-25-2020)
#569
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The black has always been my goal for the UAOS to NOT stand out, but to blend in as an OEM look, hopefully the Black Anodize won't be too "blingy", but from what I've seen from 996 owners, "the flash gets the cash"...
Last edited by Porschetech3; 06-25-2020 at 03:19 PM.
#570
I'm going to do some in clear anodized, it will still look like bare aluminum and the beautiful machine marks will show, but will have a long lasting finish..The machining marks are Pure Art ($$$), can't help but love them...
The black has always been my goal for the UAOS to NOT stand out, but to blend in as an OEM look, hopefully the Black Anodize won't be too "blingy", but from what I've seen from 996 owners, "the flash gets the cash"...
The black has always been my goal for the UAOS to NOT stand out, but to blend in as an OEM look, hopefully the Black Anodize won't be too "blingy", but from what I've seen from 996 owners, "the flash gets the cash"...