The "Ultimate AOS Solution"
#227
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hi Dan, I duno !, you need to come on here more often !!
Thanks Bill, getting closer to finished production.
It's actually worse than a crappy iphone camera, it's a crappy RCA Android phone camera..lol
The following 2 users liked this post by Porschetech3:
latonnelier (01-24-2020),
Scott at Team Harco (01-25-2020)
#228
It's actually worse than a crappy iphone camera, it's a crappy RCA Android phone camera..lol
#229
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#231
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#232
Three Wheelin'
Another option would be the POR15 product, I've used it to patch sheet metal together, it goes a LONG ways, About as strong as epoxy.
The standard rustproofing compound is a sort of dulled black.
The standard rustproofing compound is a sort of dulled black.
#233
Rennlist Member
I think the goal is to find a product that does not need to be touched after printing.
#234
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The materials used for OEM plastic engine parts are Polyamide 12,11,or 66. I used Polyamide 12 for the Accumulators, but the SLS printing process leaves a rougher finish than the "injection molding" process that OEM's use that is smoother. Injection molding only makes since if you are doing 100k pieces at a run to offset the cost of the molds, so SLS process it is...
There are some post-printing processes that can be done like bead blasting, and tumbling, and of course coatings to smooth the finish, but like Bill said, the goal was to leave it untouched after the SLS printing process. I will get it right and keep the cost down while keeping the quality up, just more decisions, decisions, decisions,
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fourblades (01-26-2020)
#236
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Thread Starter
They are really not that ugly, after looking at the finish for a day and a half, it's not that far off. I just want to produce the best and most "Factory looking " system I can, so it looks as though the Porsche Gods make it. The "sugar cube" surface actually looks pretty cool, it's just different and doesn't blend as well as I want, but this post-print process using 3D90 will give a smoother matte finish, seals porosity, and strengthens from 400 psi to 2200 psi (the Accumulator will only see -14.7 psi max) so is a win-win and only cost about $300 a pound, 1 pound will probably do 50-75 dips.
#237
Three Wheelin'
So any reason with the separation of the "diaphragm valve" from the box, You couldn't just replace the box with a regular catch can?
Then the size could be uplifted to allow enough collection to avoid the oil suction problems? Hmm.
I've seen a couple places on line that 3d print Titanium now.. I'm sure it would be a 8x^10 more expensive.. But the cool factor...
A titanium air box..
Then the size could be uplifted to allow enough collection to avoid the oil suction problems? Hmm.
I've seen a couple places on line that 3d print Titanium now.. I'm sure it would be a 8x^10 more expensive.. But the cool factor...
A titanium air box..
#238
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#240
Rennlist Member
Eagerly following Skip's journey here, and hoping certain west coast automotive authorities are not. ;-)
Yesterday I got my manometer / oil cap setup working, and have a question for the AOS experts here. I attach the manometer, and video'd the readings upon startup. The vacuum starts at ~52in, then descends steadily to ~5.5in over ~20 seconds. Is that normal?
Yesterday I got my manometer / oil cap setup working, and have a question for the AOS experts here. I attach the manometer, and video'd the readings upon startup. The vacuum starts at ~52in, then descends steadily to ~5.5in over ~20 seconds. Is that normal?