Thanks for keeping me from being the first to mention that. Hey Doc, send the parts to me - I'll do a studio photoshoot for you....

 

I've done some plasti-dip before, while it does leave a nice satin finish, it is not very durable and easy to damage/flake/peel, would not be suitable..

Hi Dan, I duno !, you need to come on here more often !!

Thanks Bill, getting closer to finished production.

It's actually worse than a crappy iphone camera, it's a crappy RCA Android phone camera..lol

Thanks for the offer man, my granddaughter is into photography and has a nice camera, if I can get her to slow down and take me some photos..lol , she is a senior in high school.

 

I thought you were gonna say it was a Consumer Cellular flip-phone for the "old folks"

 

I got one of those as a back-up for when the "smart phone" will do every thing under the sun except make/receive a phone call..

 

PT3 - any idea what you will be selling the plug and play kit for?

 

Hi Kris, not yet, still have a few tweeks to make and I haven't sat down and added and subtracted..

 

Another option would be the POR15 product, I've used it to patch sheet metal together, it goes a LONG ways, About as strong as epoxy.
The standard rustproofing compound is a sort of dulled black.

 

I think the goal is to find a product that does not need to be touched after printing.

 

SLS 3D printing is evolving at a very fast pace. There is literally hundreds of materials now and dozens of Post-printing processes. All kinds of metals can now be SLS 3D printed, and post-printed processes such as nickle,silver,gold,brass, plating, and coatings of all kinds. My goal is to keep the price point hundreds less than the Porsche Motorsports AOS, but not to compromise on quality.

The materials used for OEM plastic engine parts are Polyamide 12,11,or 66. I used Polyamide 12 for the Accumulators, but the SLS printing process leaves a rougher finish than the "injection molding" process that OEM's use that is smoother. Injection molding only makes since if you are doing 100k pieces at a run to offset the cost of the molds, so SLS process it is...

There are some post-printing processes that can be done like bead blasting, and tumbling, and of course coatings to smooth the finish, but like Bill said, the goal was to leave it untouched after the SLS printing process. I will get it right and keep the cost down while keeping the quality up, just more decisions, decisions, decisions,

 

I'm not overly concerned about look, only function. If you have "ugly" ones, I'll buy one.

 

They are really not that ugly, after looking at the finish for a day and a half, it's not that far off. I just want to produce the best and most "Factory looking " system I can, so it looks as though the Porsche Gods make it. The "sugar cube" surface actually looks pretty cool, it's just different and doesn't blend as well as I want, but this post-print process using 3D90 will give a smoother matte finish, seals porosity, and strengthens from 400 psi to 2200 psi (the Accumulator will only see -14.7 psi max) so is a win-win and only cost about $300 a pound, 1 pound will probably do 50-75 dips.

 

So any reason with the separation of the "diaphragm valve" from the box, You couldn't just replace the box with a regular catch can?
Then the size could be uplifted to allow enough collection to avoid the oil suction problems? Hmm.

I've seen a couple places on line that 3d print Titanium now.. I'm sure it would be a 8x^10 more expensive.. But the cool factor...
A titanium air box..

 

Space in the 996 engine compartment is a premium, that's why I designed the specific Accumlator to fit perfectly in a space where there would be no excess "plumbing" necessary, and nothing has to be rearranged. I had an aluminum anodized "catch can" last year, set up on a type 2 PCV system, but the Porsche Gods said I could do better, they didn't like all the "plumbing" and aluminum anodizing, nor the type 2 PCV system...

Are you talking about recreating the air cleaner box from Titanium? Yes, you are thinking "outside the box"....

 

A titanium airbox with the AOS integrated. Hey if your wishing wish big right??

 

Eagerly following Skip's journey here, and hoping certain west coast automotive authorities are not. ;-)
Yesterday I got my manometer / oil cap setup working, and have a question for the AOS experts here. I attach the manometer, and video'd the readings upon startup. The vacuum starts at ~52in, then descends steadily to ~5.5in over ~20 seconds. Is that normal?