TheUnscented

Used to have a C5 Corvette & the slave went out at about 105k miles. PIA to do transmission work as the exhaust system and entire rear end needs to be dropped. Had them install a remote bleeder when they did the slave as I was selling it to my buddy who I knew would never sell it. Not sure if this is possible with the LS swapped porsche but I suppose it's way easier to drop everything in a 911.

gtxracer

I see. I’ll give that shot today. The pedal feels normal, like it should. When car is running, if I try to shift into gear, the car will try to creep forward. I’m thinking it’s either a stuck flywheel or the slave went bad somehow.

I can access the slave with the car on stands. It’s tight, but I can get in there. Thanks for the tip!

cdk4219

Or the bell housing that you used has shifted because it has no locating pins to hold it centered. It may have prematurely worn out the pilot bearing and other parts not letting the clutch to release. Hope that’s not the problem,


Or when you put the transaxle back in it was not centered and you tightened it up putting pressure on the input shaft and pilot bearing and it won’t release.

Porschetech3

Got a picture of the clutch disk you installed?

I had a friend who rebuilt his motor and installed an aftermarket Aluminum flywheel with aftermarket clutch disk and pressure plate, he installed the disk in backwards and had the same issue as you are having, and had even replaced the slave cylinder also.

He called me over and 30min later we had the trans back out and on the floor and found the disk in backwards...lol

dcdrechsel

I am sure you have done this but ......recheck that the slave is fully seated . ?

gtxracer

Both good points. I think the first one is unlikely but I do remember a small amount of misalignment when tightening down the transaxle. I didn’t think much of it. I hope I’m not tearing apart the transaxle from the engine again!

I don’t have a picture of the disk installed on the latest rebuild. I recall looking at the clutch disk and reading the proper orientation. I’m hoping my memory is good! lol I’ll keep this in mind. Last resort is to remove the transaxle and inspect everything.


I tried starting with the car in gear and clutch pushed in. No change. I jacked up the front of the car and left it in the air in the case that air bubbles are still in the system. I had these same problems before, so it’s possible I’m just horrible at bleeding!!

gtxracer

I never removed it from the transaxle. I can remove it and inspect, maybe I can test it outside the car. It’s possible the slave tip isn’t seated properly on the arm?

De Jeeper

if u unbolt it and press the pedal it will blow the rod out and leak everywhere. U will have to lock it down to test. I have seen clutch disks seize to flywheels in jeeps that have sat for a while. Last one i had to jack up the rear, bring the wheels up to 20mph and slam on the breaks. That broke everything free.

shft22

I know there was some discussion earlier about the LV3 been an option for a swap, I don't want to derail this but figure I post this video here. It looks like theLV3 has potential.

gtxracer

Thanks, I’ll make sure I don’t blow the rod out! I think there’s air in the lines. I’m going to pump the clutch daily and leave the front end in the air. I’ll bleed again with the motive bleeder in a couple days. From what I’ve seen with other forum and social media posts, bleeding these clothes is a major pain in the ***!!!

Come back when things aren’t hectic

RABjr

Very cool project!

gtxracer

Thank you

I discovered a missing bolt in the clutch master cylinder mounting location. I don't know why I took this out, or when, but apparently it was necessary at the time. I replaced the missing bolt and bled the clutch again with the Motive bleeder - it somewhat works when I pump the clutch repeatedly. This is with the car on jacks stands and e-brake on. With e-brake off, tires will spin when it's in gear with clutch pedal to the floor. There has to be air in the lines still or the slave is bad. Everything worked well before I parked the car for the engine replacement and the master is new. When bleeding, clutch pedal is down all the way, Motive bleeder at 20psi, crack bleeder valve on slave - clear fluid, no bubbles, let it bleed for 20 seconds. I have the front of the car higher than the rear. I'm considering raising the rear end higher than front and trying again just for the sake of trying to catch some pesky air bubbles in the system. It's hard to imagine they're still in the lines. I haven't discovered any leaks, it's a single line from the master to the slave. I started and idled the car for 15 minutes to let the new coolant bleed, that went well. I just want to drive it!

I have another update to post soon on the subwoofer box I made and the rest of the audio upgrades and GT3 console delete. As soon as I figure out this clutch issue I'll post all the updates!

edit: If anyone can think of a reason not to replace the slave cylinder, let me know. Otherwise I think I'm ordering one from Pelican within a few days.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...SVSI=4311&fs=0

dcdrechsel

Just looked up Porsche shop manual bleeding and it is minimum 30 seconds .I was wrong on the 20 seconds .Since it worked before hard to believe slave just gave out from sitting .If it is kinda working that means progress - I would bleed again and then drive it -could be a sticky clutch plate -sounds farfetched but has happened .

De Jeeper

Its common for parasitic drag to make the wheels spin when the clutch is in. I bet if u put it on the ground it drives fine.

EVOMMM

Question I just bought a salvage 99 911 tip does this setup only work with a 6 speed ?
also all in if I have a car what would it realistically cost