Subourbonite

No need to go that deep into five-figures. You don’t need to go to a Turbo transaxle and different adapter plate, the G96.01 is pretty capable up to 500 hp just don’t go launching it and you’ll keep things together. Maybe drop in a Stage 2 or 2.5 clutch to keep up.

As an alternative to rebuilding the LS1, you can go with a 530hp long block with a warranty for $7,700. Go with a short block and you’re at $5,600 still with a warranty.

https://blueprintengines.com/product...2l-psls3760ctf

gtxracer

My little cammed LS1 puts out close to 500 already. I also have a replacement ls1 short block here already. Best dyno results so far with my 180 header design is 443 rwhp from a cammed LS3. 50hp is considerable but not worth the price difference at all. Thanks for the suggestions though, Blue Print engines are great people.

ttt123

gtxracer

No updates yet...but my wife did buy me a GT3 console delete for my birthday! Looking at buying a Continental head unit, a new carbon fiber steering wheel to replace this Tip CF wheel, and some Beard seats in black. What does everyone think of that plan? Interior is Savannah beige and the steering wheel would also be black to match the seats.

Also looking for recommendations for replacement speakers. I think this is a simple stereo set in my C2, I don't think it has the hifi package. I don't think I want two huge subs behind me, just clean, crisp, high quality sound. Any suggestions?

gtxracer

Does anyone have tips on bleeding the clutch in these cars? This has plagued me twice now, I can’t even recall how I was able to bleed it the first time.

I use a Motive bleeder hooked to the Master, pumped to 20psi. Master cylinder is brand new, everything worked well before I removed the transaxle and engine. I push the clutch pedal to the floor via a helper in the car, then I crack the bleed screw on the slave. Fluid comes out, no bubbles now, and I keep the level above the master cylinder pickup. The pedal has to be lifted back to position then it feels firm. It’ll shift into gear without engine running, then when I start the car, I can’t shift into gear with clutch pedal pressed. I’ve tried manual bleeding, no luck either.

I don’t think I incorrectly installed the clutch pressure plate, all that went together smoothly. I supposed the slave could be bad finally, but that’s a guess. Any ideas?

Deaton

I just installed a new slave when I did my transmission swap. Simple vacuum pump on the slave bleeder until there's no bubbles and done works great.

If you have solid pressure in the clutch pedal I don't think bleeding is your issue. It's possible to miss align the slave onto the fork.

DSC800

Do you have the car level, or worse, the rear higher? I had my front tires on ramps, about 8 or 9" with the rear driver side raised about 5", just enough to be able to reach under and work the bleed valve. The front raised higher and left side slightly higher gets the last of the air to the highest point. I installed my slave empty and it took less than an hour with no pump. The pedal going to the floor for the first couple of pumps is the assist spring.

dcdrechsel

Two points : did you try starting with a gear engaged ? Could be the disc is just stuck to flywheel ( happened to me ) .On the bleeding the slave valve needs to be open over 20 seconds -forget what the shop manual calls for -.but it is a long time .

TheChunkNorris

Damn this thread makes we want to find a roller and do this swap! Looks incredible and where in WA are you out of? I'm in the Hood River OR/White Salmon WA area for work about 3 times a year.

Justin76

It does sound like fun.. there is a local guy that has done one also ..

gtxracer

Thanks for the insight! I can pull the slave and see if the fork was just misaligned. I should be able to at least see in there and maybe push on the fork with a rod to see if it disengages the clutch. At $93, I might just buy a new slave so I know all components are good.

Okay, so this may be a big reason. I have the rear of the car on ramps. I tried putting the front of the car in the air and bleeding, but same result. Now that I know this, I'll raise the front higher than the rear and try again. Thanks!!

20 seconds? Okay. Glad I have fresh Bosch fluid sitting here. I'll give it another shot with the front end higher than the rear. I can also try starting it in gear to dislodge clutch from flywheel. It was warm outside when I assembled it and now it's in the 40s and 50s outside. Could just be stuck. Thanks!

I'm in Lacey/Tacoma/Seattle area, all over. There's 4-5 LS swapped 911s in this area that I know of. 3 of them run my 180 headers

gtxracer

Bleeding clutch woes…

Front end up in the air, higher than the rear, Motive bleeder at 30psi, hardly any bubbles come out, all clear fluid. Bled for 20 seconds, filled up my little bleed bottle. Started car, no clutch. Started car in gear, moved it around the driveway for a couple seconds, try clutch again, nothing.

anyone wanna buy a LS1 996 that needs a clutch bleed? lol

dcdrechsel

Was the clutch pedal depressed when you bled it ?

gtxracer

yes, pedal down, crack bleeder, clear fluid.

dcdrechsel

The idea with starting in gear is to keep clutch pedal depressed -weight of car used to overcome friction .Does the pedal feel normal like it is activating the fingers on the pressure plate ?