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17750587[/url]]Just looked up Porsche shop manual bleeding and it is minimum 30 seconds .I was wrong on the 20 seconds .Since it worked before hard to believe slave just gave out from sitting .If it is kinda working that means progress - I would bleed again and then drive it -could be a sticky clutch plate -sounds farfetched but has happened .
Thanks for looking it up. I let it bleed for close to 30 seconds, I was very patient. I’m going to put the car down and drive it. I have the 2nd gear detent fix to install as well. If it doesn’t have good clutch feel I’ll bleed it again and let it sit for 30+ seconds.
Originally Posted by De Jeeper;[url=tel:17750673
17750673[/url]]Its common for parasitic drag to make the wheels spin when the clutch is in. I bet if u put it on the ground it drives fine.
I hope you’re right! I’ll give it a shot.
Originally Posted by NYPOWR4
Question I just bought a salvage 99 911 tip does this setup only work with a 6 speed ?
also all in if I have a car what would it realistically cost
This has been answered in this thread. It’s not all that complex, you have to buy the parts and install them. Transaxle, clutch pedal, shifter, master, slave, lines, and then DME changes. There’s other bits to it but you need to do more research if you’re serious.
Do you have a build here? Always fun to check out other swaps.
I’m planning to reuse the factory gauges. I have no interest in replacing them. I want it to look as factory as possible. I pulled the original M96 sensors off the engine prior to selling it for oil temperature/level, oil pressure, and coolant temp.
Were you able to get the Oil Temp/Level gauge working in dash? Can you show what you've done if so?
17761347[/url]]Were you able to get the Oil Temp/Level gauge working in dash? Can you show what you've done if so?
I have CTS working at the moment. The oil pressure just reads 60psi no matter what. I’ve tried swapping the wires on the sensor. No change. I have good oil pressure from the LSx sensor via the Holley interface. As for the oil level, I have the plug and sensor but I’d have to cut down the sensor so it’s not installed. Others don’t even run this sensor but I’d really like to. I’m curious if I could mount a tube off the other dipstick location in my oil pan (there are two) and get the readout there. It’s one of the things on my to-do list. I’ll update the thread when I do get around to it. I also have a tach converter box to wire into the Holley to P car interface that will convert the LS 24x signal to 58x, essentially.
17750587[/url]]Just looked up Porsche shop manual bleeding and it is minimum 30 seconds .I was wrong on the 20 seconds .Since it worked before hard to believe slave just gave out from sitting .If it is kinda working that means progress - I would bleed again and then drive it -could be a sticky clutch plate -sounds farfetched but has happened .
Originally Posted by De Jeeper;[url=tel:17750673
17750673[/url]]Its common for parasitic drag to make the wheels spin when the clutch is in. I bet if u put it on the ground it drives fine.
Well it drives! It’s hard to shift when the car is cold. I think the linkage in the shifter might be suspect. Maybe something is not quite right and I can dial it in. Once the car is warm it shifts pretty well. I never liked this shifter setup. But I put 50 miles on the car and it runs great! No issues. I’m very happy to be driving it again finally!
Thank you gents The sound is growing on me. I kinda wanted something more throaty but this IS a P car after all.
Drove the car for the first time on public roads, felt great, lots of power. Had some tuning issues but I have some help with that now. I'm swapping to a drive by wire (DBW) setup and ditching the cable setup. For this, I had to buy an entire new DBW Terminator X Max engine management system. It's a different harness and ECU altogether. I have a LS3 throttle body on the way as well, so I'll have those for sale if anyone is interested. This should make enough clearance to close the rear deck lid with what I've trimmed out. Later on, I'll mount a wing, but for now I'll just go slick. I designed up a new heat shield for the 180 headers that should protect the oil temps when racing. This isn't needed for regular spirited driving but I want to be prepared for the worst case when I decide to take it to the track. I might end up coating the entire exhaust in ceramic later this year. Power steering works great, can't say enough good things about it and I love the mount I made. Easy peezy. Interior is mostly back together now, just replacing some worn out factory trim pieces here and there, getting all the small things neat and tidy, then it's time to drive. I'll be working on the AC system once it's on the road, should be a piece of cake (famous last words). Eventually I'll want to put in a Porsche PCCM Plus as someone ripped out the stereo that was in the car. I'll probably put in a period correct Blaupunkt for nostalgia reasons until I want to slap down $1400 for the PCCM.
Hoping to find a great deal on some BBS e88s from a Cup car or something as these painted twists make my head hurt. They're just not my style. Also have a 2" H&R lowering kit to put in eventually. Like I've been saying for a while, eventually it'll be metallic green again with updated Panamera headlights from 996Retrofits. More exhaust videos and some drive bys coming soon!
Did you use the 996 DBW pedal for this? How did you wire it?
17807051[/url]]Did you use the 996 DBW pedal for this? How did you wire it?
I ended up using the GM C7 DBW pedal. If I had used the 996.1 e-gas pedal, I could’ve retained cruise control. That kinda concerned me as the system is cable operated and I believe it’s regulated based on speed. I just didn’t feel confident with that solenoid pulling the cable and setting speed when the car has so much more torque and power. If it’s wet out and I’m using cruise control, if it suddenly pulls the cable for 30% throttle (or some other significant value), this car will spin the tires. I never intended for this car to be a long distance cruiser, I’d buy a 991 or similar car for that.
As for the wiring, they’re both 6 wire setups IIRC. I had the wiring mostly figured out but wanted to just drive the car instead of tinkering with yet another mini project. So I sold it all. I love the C7 pedal so I probably won’t go back but Stuttgart Muscle was sold and the new owner doesn’t seem interested in offering the 3D printed adapter for the C7 pedal. If you need one, I might be able to find one, send me a PM. If you need help with the wiring of the 996.1 egas pedal, let me know and I can send you what I have.
HI, I have a 1999 996 Convertible and also getting ready to install the Corvette DBW pedal which is correct for the C5 Corvette Ls1 Im swapping in place of my Porsche DBC pedal.
I have the original harness and GM ECU, would really appreciate the wiring diagram or guidance.
HI, I have a 1999 996 Convertible and also getting ready to install the Corvette DBW pedal which is correct for the C5 Corvette Ls1 Im swapping in place of my Porsche DBC pedal.
I have the original harness and GM ECU, would really appreciate the wiring diagram or guidance.
Thanks
Hi - if you're using the GM pedal and harness, you don't need to change anything. You'll only need to design/fabricate/3D print an adapter to mount the pedal in the OEM Porshce pedal position. The adapter I used was from Stuttgart Muscle and they were sold off to CPE. CPE doesn't seem to sell that adapter, probably because it was 3D printed.
CPE also knocked off my 997 (edit: appears Tyler knocked off my 996 mount too) Power Steering Bracket design. I just saw that. Oh well, you can't make people be honest I guess! What's the expression from Oscar Wilde? "Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness"
Thanks for the reply, so I just run the wires from the pedal direct to the GM ECU DBW plug?
No problem! There's a plug for the DBW pedal. Some are 5 pin, most are 6 pin IIRC. Since it sounds like you pulled the OEM LS harness and pedal, it is just plug and play. You'll just need to make a physical adapter to put the GM pedal in the OEM Porsche pedal position. Hope that makes sense.
No problem! There's a plug for the DBW pedal. Some are 5 pin, most are 6 pin IIRC. Since it sounds like you pulled the OEM LS harness and pedal, it is just plug and play. You'll just need to make a physical adapter to put the GM pedal in the OEM Porsche pedal position. Hope that makes sense.
Check to see if your LS1 setup uses a TAC Module. It is a box that goes between the factory computer and the DBW pedal. They are specific to the pedal type. I needed one when I put an LS6 in my 73 Camaro.
10-28-2021, 10:52 AM
The sound is growing on me. I kinda wanted something more throaty but this IS a P car after all.
