Question on transmission-only removal...
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Question on transmission-only removal...
My clutch has a sort of on/off feel to it, so I figured a nice winter project would be to remove the transmission (only) and see what kind of shape it's in. I couldn't find specific diy instructions, but it looks fairly straightforward. Thanks to the C4, the tunnel in front of the transmission looks like I've got plenty of room to move the tranny forward (away from the engine) to disengage the input shaft from the clutch. Removing the starter looks challenging, but doable.
I do have one specific question. Do I have to remove the oil line shown below? And if I do, does the oil have to be drained first? If so, I may wait and do this on my oil change cycle next summer -- there's $40 worth of Mobil 1 from July in there.
Thanks,
Chris.
'95 C2
I do have one specific question. Do I have to remove the oil line shown below? And if I do, does the oil have to be drained first? If so, I may wait and do this on my oil change cycle next summer -- there's $40 worth of Mobil 1 from July in there.
Thanks,
Chris.
'95 C2
Last edited by Chris L; 11-16-2003 at 01:29 PM.
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Sorry -- I do have a C2. Just commenting that the tunnel (which I'm assuming is the same for a C2 and C4) affords a bunch of space because of the foward driveshaft that I don't have.
Chris.
Chris.
#4
Chris, just my .02. I have had the engines in and out of these cars a bunch and it is just too easy to pull the whole thing to not do it. What You are signing up for by not pulling the motor is in my own mind more work than if You pull the whole assembly at once. The other thing to keep in mind is this is your opportunity to do a bunch of things You should do while there. Change plugs(SO EASY w motor out), change Flywheel to LW get rid of dual mass piece of crap before the rubber rots and it starts its clunk clunk garbage, change main seal, change cam chain cover seals, replace SAI diverter valve, Go ahead and change to Sachs uprated pressure plate for more clamping force and RS clutch disk(never have clutch go out again for as long as You own the car! lol) The PP is the most important piece to that equation btw. Change valve cover gaskets, install RS heater tube and I am sure there is much more that I can think of if given time. The last 993 engine removal took us 3 hours with no manual. The install of a TT engine, trans and wiring harness(that was not in the car to start with) took 6 hours... These are very easy to work on if you are patient. Again just my .02 and of course i am biased, but hey what would I know, I manage portfolios, dont know a thing about cars... Please feel free to contact me if I can help, Really.
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Glen,
You're correct that it's not much more work. And, joining the engine and transmission back together looks way easier with them both removed. But not having to change oil and have the car realigned the main reason for me. Both those were done this summer, and I'm not psyched to pay for them again so soon.
Chris.
You're correct that it's not much more work. And, joining the engine and transmission back together looks way easier with them both removed. But not having to change oil and have the car realigned the main reason for me. Both those were done this summer, and I'm not psyched to pay for them again so soon.
Chris.
#7
I did my own clutch, and I agree that dropping them both is the easier way to go. Even out of the car, lining the transmission up to the clutch was a bear. While I know its been done, I think it would be really tough to line the transmission up to the motor in the car. I wouldn't worry with the alignment, just mark the setting the you undue, and put them back when done. That's what I did. And, if you're really that concerned with $40 of oil, just drain it into a clean container, cover it, and put it back in when you're done.
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#8
Burning Brakes
I know this thread is old but:
I for one am historically in the "remove the whole shebang" crowd. My SC was easy enough. But the 993 is a different animal and pretty intimidating.
In addition to the oil and alignment, don't you have to recharge the A/C or something if you remove the engine?
I for one am historically in the "remove the whole shebang" crowd. My SC was easy enough. But the 993 is a different animal and pretty intimidating.
In addition to the oil and alignment, don't you have to recharge the A/C or something if you remove the engine?
#9
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If you look at this post Toga did, he just unbolted the compressor and let it hang w/o breaking and connections to the A/C.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/175044-engine-removal-phase-2-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/175044-engine-removal-phase-2-a.html
#10
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Originally Posted by Leland Pate
I know this thread is old but:
I for one am historically in the "remove the whole shebang" crowd. My SC was easy enough. But the 993 is a different animal and pretty intimidating.
In addition to the oil and alignment, don't you have to recharge the A/C or something if you remove the engine?
I for one am historically in the "remove the whole shebang" crowd. My SC was easy enough. But the 993 is a different animal and pretty intimidating.
In addition to the oil and alignment, don't you have to recharge the A/C or something if you remove the engine?
#11
Burning Brakes
Leland, as Kelly mentioned, you can hang the a/c compressor of to the side. Removing the engine/trans isnt much different than you old SC, save for that rear suspension cradle. No worries mate
Chris, did I ever tell you I dropped my 3.0L engine about 4 feet the first time I tried to remove an engine???
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Sorry to open an old thread...BUT....does everyone still agree it is best to drop the engine and trans to do a clutch? I was told a few days ago by a very well respected Porsche mechanic that he replaces 993TT clutches often w/o engine removal and it is much easier. Just wanting to double check with the braintrust. I would really rthter just drop the trans if possible. TIA!
#13
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Good that you did, because we never did find out what the cause of the "My clutch has a sort of on/off feel to it" issue was that the thread starter stated.
I know what the solution was in my experience with dry clutch motorcycles; I'd just like to hear what others have to say.
I know what the solution was in my experience with dry clutch motorcycles; I'd just like to hear what others have to say.
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Depends on your tools, experience and skills.
If you have a proper transmission jack, are on a lift, have supports for the engine, and good hands, and have done it over and over, i would say leave the engine in place.
If you are at home, on jackstands, have never put in that clutch fork pivot shaft, and do not have a good way to support and angle the transmission, then pull the whole works.
Pulling costs some time, fluids, and an alignment.
Cheers,
Mike
If you have a proper transmission jack, are on a lift, have supports for the engine, and good hands, and have done it over and over, i would say leave the engine in place.
If you are at home, on jackstands, have never put in that clutch fork pivot shaft, and do not have a good way to support and angle the transmission, then pull the whole works.
Pulling costs some time, fluids, and an alignment.
Cheers,
Mike
#15
Rennlist Member
^^^ What Mike says. I have done this at least 6 times on my race in the garage with a couple of jacks, but prior to a trans only removal I had dropped the engine a bunch. If you decide to DIY have someone there that has done it before:
1. You need to be careful with stock engine mounts not to damage them when you tilt the motor forward.
2. I remove the starter as soon as I can get my hands above the tranny.
3. You need a long threaded bolt to retrieve the clutch fork and to reinstall it properly. It also helps you find the correct angle to feel your way in and across to the other needle bearing cage.
4. Stuff some paper towel in the access side when attempting the pivot shaft just in case you drop any of the hardware ( if that happens it is all apart again).
It can save time, but just as easily cost you more.
1. You need to be careful with stock engine mounts not to damage them when you tilt the motor forward.
2. I remove the starter as soon as I can get my hands above the tranny.
3. You need a long threaded bolt to retrieve the clutch fork and to reinstall it properly. It also helps you find the correct angle to feel your way in and across to the other needle bearing cage.
4. Stuff some paper towel in the access side when attempting the pivot shaft just in case you drop any of the hardware ( if that happens it is all apart again).
It can save time, but just as easily cost you more.