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I will add that I have done a few reseals on 993 engines that reputable shops claimed needed a full top end. There are many shops that will argue that especially with the 993 8mm valves vs the earlier non v-ram engines or 964's with the 9mm valves that after 60k miles all these engines need new valves guides.
All I can say is in each case the engines needed a reseal which isn't cheap but after done tested perfectly on the mustang dyno to factory numbers, had impeccable leak down and compression numbers and did not burn any oil between changes. To this day still run without a weep never mind a leak of oil when done properly. BTW these were engines just north of 100k miles. IMO wait till a full rebuild is needed and just keep on top of the seals, unless damage was done and/or oil ingestion is an issue.
I haven’t encountered yet a motor that needed a reseal so badly that it lost power on a dyno. What you’re saying is a failure of the space between the cylinder and head causing a loss in compression. If said vehicle was so bad, it would be unroadworthy at that point and potential for failure due to mixed afr and poor combustion.
Oil pressure and loss or weep of minor oil does not and will not hamper loss of power. You’d have to gushing as fast as you’re nearly filling (exaggeration, but the point is made) for there to be a power loss.
Oil pressure and loss or weep of minor oil does not and will not hamper loss of power. You’d have to gushing as fast as you’re nearly filling (exaggeration, but the point is made) for there to be a power loss.[/QUOTE]
I concur with this statement. An Engine reseal in both my 964 and former 9934S was all that was required at the time other shops suggested full engine rebuild. A reseal if well done should be all that is needed as per also noted by @cobalt above.
I haven’t encountered yet a motor that needed a reseal so badly that it lost power on a dyno. What you’re saying is a failure of the space between the cylinder and head causing a loss in compression. If said vehicle was so bad, it would be unroadworthy at that point and potential for failure due to mixed afr and poor combustion.
Oil pressure and loss or weep of minor oil does not and will not hamper loss of power. You’d have to gushing as fast as you’re nearly filling (exaggeration, but the point is made) for there to be a power loss.
Sorry I thought I was clear. I never said anything about leaking oil causing power loss. Although there was power loss prior to the reseal, I wasn't putting them on the dyno leaking as badly as they were and making a mess. Also they all had the CEL lit up. Literally one was so bad it just left a trail of oil drops as you drove and puddled when parked the underside was a grease pit.
The point was there are reputable shops that see this as a way to make a buck. They saw bad oil leaks and just blindly said Top End rebuild without doing a leak down or compression test or even inquiring how much oil the car was loosing or possibly ingesting. One shop went as far as to say the valve stem seals and valve guides were bad without checking. Before I did anything I tested the engines and scoped the cylinders. I saw no reason for a top end. When I see leak down numbers of <4% across all cylinders I say reseal and not Top End if leaking oil. In the end all they needed was a reseal and a lot of TLC. I replaced all the gaskets from top to bottom that can be replaced. Degreased the engines and reinstalled everything then I put them on the dyno. The CEL was from the SAI valve and port cleaning which I did and one had a bad O2 sensor. Loss of power came from poorly installed or cracked and leaking Vacuum lines causing the Vram not to function. Since the reseals there has been no oil loss, not even a single drop and do not ingest any oil between changes and these have over 100k miles. I see no reason for the reseal the shops claimed were needed and these should run fine for many more miles.
I just see far too many top ends being done when not needed. Seems more so than ever I see shops just say top end and expect the owners to not know enough and just bite the bullet. They get a fresh top end but the question is was a top end needed or just a reseal?
I just see far too many top ends being done when not needed. Seems more so than ever I see shops just say top end and expect the owners to not know enough and just bite the bullet. They get a fresh top end but the question is was a top end needed or just a reseal?
I hope this clarifies things
Pardon my ignorance... The need of it aside, will a top end rebuild bring about the benefits of a reseal?
Pardon my ignorance... The need of it aside, will a top end rebuild bring about the benefits of a reseal?
If you are doing a full top end you should receive most if not all of the benefits of a reseal. You need to discuss this with the shop doing the work. Although I recently took apart an engine done by a known shop that had a top end and upgraded engine that reused a lot of the original seals which just blows my mind. When I have an engine out of the car I always recommend replacing all the seals as they are plasticizing and shrinking from age and heat. That includes the IMS seal the front and rear main seals and all the seals throughout. Some overlooked seals are the oil bridge seals that tend to shrink. I would also consider having the power steering pump rebuilt. It is far cheaper to do all this with the engine out vs piece meal. Something becoming more important as these get older is replacing or reworking the fuel lines. I have seen some bad lines and others that are still good but for how long especially once messed with. Heat and age is drying these bits out.
I've also have had a similar experience where a shop recommended a top end rebuild because all the seals had begun to weep or leak. A friend who is a factory 993 tech advised I pick the car up and bring it to him. He proceeded to take the engine out and go through the whole thing. He replaced all seals, did a clutch and pressure plate, motor mounts, golden rod shift linkage plus plus plus at a fraction of the quote for the top end. So glad i called him before giving the green light to the shop.
My '95 started leaking oil badly a few months after I bought it, ~15 years ago with 55k miles. The leaks were coming from the case through-bolt seals. Replacement requires removing the cylinders. At that point, a full top-end only added about $2k to the total cost. For me, it was worth the peace of mind to have the top-end done (while you're in there), despite the shop telling me it wasn't likely necessary. If I had it to do over again, I'd do the same thing.
Something becoming more important as these get older is replacing or reworking the fuel lines. I have seen some bad lines and others that are still good but for how long especially once messed with. Heat and age is drying these bits out.
Along with the fuel lines, replace the power steering line(s) as well as auto/tip trans lines if applicable.
Over the years there has been several 928's which burned-up due to the lines listed above failing.
Another item too are the battery cables which burned-up yet another 928.
What's the word on quality from Top Gear Imports in NJ?
Do your homework and due diligence. See the car in person or have a proper PPI done first. All depends on what car you are looking at. If you need a recommendation for a PPI I can help.
Do your homework and due diligence. See the car in person or have a proper PPI done first. All depends on what car you are looking at. If you need a recommendation for a PPI I can help.
They don’t actually have/own 1/2 of the cars that they are offering for sale on their website. They were either sold long ago or they never actually owned them, they were on consignment and the owners removed them when they couldn’t sell them but they still have them on their website.
I own a car that was sold by them back in 2016 and has since had two other owners yet it’s still for sale on their website. The prior owner who bought from them said it was a nightmare to deal with them lies, delays getting paperwork and title to them, scheduling delivery, etc. but the actual car in this instance was as represented and in exceptional condition as it still is today. I have sent emails asking them to remove the car from their site and no response. I’d steer clear unless it’s your dream car and even then I’d be extremely careful and do extensive due diligence as mentioned.
They should get close to that I’m surprised they aren’t asking more - thats where they are trading for under 40k miles 98’ C2S - well optioned, no stories. I know of 15k mi glacier white and 23k mile arctic silver examples that both sold for over 150k back in summer/fall.
Do your homework and due diligence. See the car in person or have a proper PPI done first. All depends on what car you are looking at. If you need a recommendation for a PPI I can help.
Thanks! Definitely would do those things. I'm starting to keep tabs on listings as I'd like to add a 993 probably by early summer.
01-05-2021, 04:22 PM
