Strange Sound Rebuild Rebound Thread
05-08-2013, 05:16 PM
#46
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Today I am working on the Intermediate Shaft. I have cleaned it and have removed the spockets. They are held on very tight via a press fit. To remove them I used a 6" jaw Puller and an Impact gun. I put a piece of steel in between the jaw puller point and the shaft to protect it. Here are before and after pictures:
05-08-2013, 05:26 PM
#47
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Here are pics of the old and new sprockets. It's hard to tell from the pictures but the old sprockets are pretty worn. After 95K I guess that's what one would expect. Just for fun I weighed them.
If the original factory sprockets weigh the same as the replacements available today there appears to be roughly 10% less material (wear) on the old sprockets. This wear was about the same for both sprockets.
Now on to the fun of getting the new ones on the shaft.....
If the original factory sprockets weigh the same as the replacements available today there appears to be roughly 10% less material (wear) on the old sprockets. This wear was about the same for both sprockets.
Now on to the fun of getting the new ones on the shaft.....
05-08-2013, 05:43 PM
#48
Race Car
You may want to consider the same process that you use for the intermediate drive and Distributor drive onto the Crankshaft. By putting the sprockets in a hot oil bath first (300 degrees for 45mins or so) should make install easier. (Everything fits better after a hot oil bath 
)
)
05-08-2013, 05:51 PM
#50
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You may want to consider the same process that you use for the intermediate drive and Distributor drive onto the Crankshaft. By putting the sprockets in a hot oil bath first (300 degrees for 45mins or so) should make install easier. (Everything fits better after a hot oil bath )
)
05-09-2013, 05:01 PM
#53
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
05-09-2013, 05:47 PM
#54
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
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Yup, good thinking. I too replaced the chains/all sprockets as a set, since they bed into each other. I bet your original chains feel fine though they might have a bit of stretch by now. Nice thing is your can replace them with one-piece chains.
05-09-2013, 09:01 PM
#55
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Shaft in freezer overnight. Sprockets baked @ 325F for 35 minutes. Slid right on but needed a few hammer blows to get the sprocket face just below the snap ring groove. Alcohol cleanse & new snap rings are next.
05-18-2013, 07:42 PM
#56
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Quick Update/Notes/Pics:
1. Received internal parts for thermostat and replaced/re-assembled.
2. Installed new oil cooler up front and new oil lines that run along the right side.
3. Installed oil tank and thermostat, reconnected air and oil hoses.
If you are going down this route in the future here are a couple of things I learned:
A. When removing/installing the oil cooler remove the bottom body panel and pop out the right front lower bumber. This makes access much easier.
B. If you get a new cooler don't forget the four bolts that hold the fan onto the cooler (pictured). Take them off your old cooler or get new ones. Part Number: 99959191102. Also, there are three u-clips (speed nuts) that hold the screws which attach the metal cover on the rear. I had to order new ones. Part Number: 99959171302
C. If you are removing the oil lines you'll want to pick up two new white clips that hold the lines to the body. There are little plastic tabs where the screw goes in that expand outward as you tighten down the screw. Both of mine broke during disassembly. Part Number: 99320730300.
1. Received internal parts for thermostat and replaced/re-assembled.
2. Installed new oil cooler up front and new oil lines that run along the right side.
3. Installed oil tank and thermostat, reconnected air and oil hoses.
If you are going down this route in the future here are a couple of things I learned:
A. When removing/installing the oil cooler remove the bottom body panel and pop out the right front lower bumber. This makes access much easier.
B. If you get a new cooler don't forget the four bolts that hold the fan onto the cooler (pictured). Take them off your old cooler or get new ones. Part Number: 99959191102. Also, there are three u-clips (speed nuts) that hold the screws which attach the metal cover on the rear. I had to order new ones. Part Number: 99959171302
C. If you are removing the oil lines you'll want to pick up two new white clips that hold the lines to the body. There are little plastic tabs where the screw goes in that expand outward as you tighten down the screw. Both of mine broke during disassembly. Part Number: 99320730300.
