PelicanParts.com

Great pics - keep 'em coming!

Vorsicht

I've got a question on the head studs. The manual calls for Loctite 649 but I can't find it anywhere. Is there a newer product equivalent? Permatex equivalent?

Vorsicht

Brief Update:

24 head studs installed. I used red Loctite. Piston relief and safety valves installed. I switched out the springs for new. Next up Pistons and Cylinders.

Vorsicht

So I am re-using the rings from my prior re-build. The rings had about a hours worth of engine time. I tested the ring end gap for all top and middle rings. Everything came out well with the gap coming in between .20mm and .23mm. Here are a few pics of the process:

Vorsicht

UPDATE: Almost there.... Here is a brief update.

Good news: Engine back in car. It starts and runs well. Virtual rod bearings replaced with the metal kind. No strange noises!

Other news: After 15 - 20 minutes the engine shuts off as if it is running out of fuel and will not restart. This has happened three times in three tries.

Here is what I've tried so far:

1. Swapped out DME Relay. No change.
2. Checked all vacuum connections (good).
3. Fuel pump fuse is good.

Other facts:

1. Starts immediately on cold start.
2. Takes at least 4 hours before it will re-start again.
3. During 'hot' re-start tries the starter is making the clack-clack, metal-on-metal noise. Starter is new/refurbished. I'm guessing I got a bum one and need to replace.
4. No warning lights, no codes in memory.
5. Fuel in the tank is at least 14 months old.

I think the bum starter and the engine shut off are not related. Could I be wrong? Next step is to test fuel pressure. Any suggestions?

ca993twin

Peter,
Congrats on your success after your ordeal. Just about there now!
That clickity clack sound is usually caused by too little power to the starter... that sound is the solenoid doing its best effort. However, shutting off after 15 or 20 minutes and then not restarting for several hours is a very odd symptom. I would start by measuring the voltage at the battery and at the starter while its running, and again when it shuts off. This may lead to a bad ground strap, a bad battery, a bad ignition switch, a bad starter, or a poor connection somewhere else.
Anyway, that's my guess and I hope it helps.

e3photo

Hey Peter,

Congrats on the progress.I got my new engine in last week,and am currently working thru a few issues as well. Yours does seem a bit unusual. So you are saying you can start it easily,it runs 15-20 minutes,then dies and won't restart for 4 hours?


Emerald

Vorsicht

Exactly.

Vorsicht

Ok, Will try measuring the voltage at both spots. The battery is relatively new (less than 2 years old), an Interstate MTP-91. I have read elsewhere that the popping sound during starter operation is typical of a bad starter.

e3photo

It almost sounds temperature related,but I am not sure what role something like an air temp sensor,or other ,would play in causing the engine to shut off.

Emerald

Vorsicht

Thinking of the electrical connections just made me remember one more fact. The wiring harness in the car is the pre-recall 'bad' one from 1995. I had intended to get the recall swap done at the dealer as soon as the car was drive-able (25 minutes away). It is in pretty poor shape.

As a side note, I did try to get the new wiring harness during the rebuild. It would make sense, right? Neither the dealer nor Porsche America (corporate) would allow me to swap it. They require the car to be brought to the dealer. It's a shame but I guess a liability issue.

Vorsicht

Yes, I have read thru a bunch of 'hot, no start' threads. Sometimes a 'heat soak' of the starter will cause it to fail. Measuring the voltages should provide some clue hopefully.

LimeyBoy

Been following this thread, thanks for all the posting.

It can't be the starter if the car runs for up to 20 mins. I doubt it is the battery - unless - after it stalls you have to jump it? Heat soak is possible - an electrical connection heating up and losing contact, cools down and re-contacts. I'd start with search result recommendations for tracing grounds / running issues where elec connections were discovered to be faulty etc.

LimeyBoy

^^ apologies, meant the stalling cannot be the starter. Hot start attempt clackity clack could obviously be the starter.

trophy

Hey Peter, Glad you have her running again, that is the first major step. Shut down and Starter issues would not be related.

Is the car throwing a check engine light as it shuts down? If so would be good to get the codes if possible.
Do you have to boost it after the shut down? or is there enough charge in the battery? If it is shutting down and the battery is dying then there is a chance the alternator is at fault.

Checking the charge system as it is running could help check the regulator and alternator health, if the voltage is jumping around or low could be issue there.

I would also check the resistance of the Cylinder Head Temp sender located in cylinder #3, making sure it is working ok, I could shut down if it senses an overheat, same could be done for the oil temp sender as well. It may not be overheating but the sensor being faulty could send a false signal. Both of these should show up with a check engine light.

Good Luck.