Group Purchase on Atlas Scissor Lift
10-27-2013, 10:26 AM
#76
Actually I think the 944 needs to come out from the bottom (it's easier and less parts to remove than from the top, or so I've read).
It's looking like I might just go this route as I can have the lift below the floor vs. having 2 post to deal with.
It's looking like I might just go this route as I can have the lift below the floor vs. having 2 post to deal with.
10-27-2013, 10:44 AM
#77
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Merrimac, WI
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I did nine six years ago, just love it. Added and extra lip for a plywood cover, car can be driven over it to store in the back, also adds a nice 4' x 8' work table for other garage and Porsche projects. Hydralic line to pump is cut into cement. Thanks, mark
Last edited by Emo993; 12-07-2013 at 10:35 AM.
10-27-2013, 11:16 AM
#78
Race Car
Actually I think the 944 needs to come out from the bottom (it's easier and less parts to remove than from the top, or so I've read).
It's looking like I might just go this route as I can have the lift below the floor vs. having 2 post to deal with.
It's looking like I might just go this route as I can have the lift below the floor vs. having 2 post to deal with.
12-14-2013, 08:52 AM
#79
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Howdy Again Guys!! Since doing this project earlier this year I've received several PM's and emails from guys who were thinking about doing something similar. I decided to post up some of the specifics to answer some future potential questions, please remember this is what has worked for me using the Atlas TD6MR lift, using a different lift and dealing with your specific garage floor and configuration will change things......in other words do whatever at your own risk, YMMV, etc. What I did and worked well for me:
-Hole Size: 89 1/2" Length by 46 5/8" Wide (Remember that I used 1/8" thick angle stainless steel and 5/8" composite decking to trim out hole)
-Depth of Hole after digging it out: Minimum of 14"
-Expanded the Hole 12" to 18" under Existing Floor for Additional Support
-Thickness of Poured Concrete: Minimum of 7"
-5 Piers dug 12" in Diameter, Minimum of 36" Deep, tied together with rebar
-Depth of Finished Recess: 7" from Garage Floor to Recessed Floor
-Hydraulic Cement was used to Finish out the Hole Sides / Uprights
-I waited 30 days for all Concrete to Cure before Drilling / Anchoring Composite Sides
-Size of Aluminum Plates: 8" x 24" x 1/4" Sourced from Ebay
-PVC Pipe used to run lines through is 1 1/2", Coring Bit used to Drill Floor was 2"
-I did place a piece of 1 1/2" PVC Pipe into Concrete on Front Corner of Recess to act as a Drain just in case
-If you pursue my custom made release lever or find you need a longer cable (Bicycle brake cable), I had no luck sourcing one so I made my own:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ble?highlight=
Lastly, When figuring out where to cut your hole, remember that you don't want to simply center it up since the lifting table is offset on the actual lift. If you go to the first page and look at the piece of corrugated I used please notice where I drew everything, the hydraulics are at one end and the lifting table is 20" offset to the other end. Contrary to what many would think, the table does not shift or move to the center of the hole or lift when raised, it pretty much remains in the same vertical plane when rising.
Good Luck Gentlemen.......
-Hole Size: 89 1/2" Length by 46 5/8" Wide (Remember that I used 1/8" thick angle stainless steel and 5/8" composite decking to trim out hole)
-Depth of Hole after digging it out: Minimum of 14"
-Expanded the Hole 12" to 18" under Existing Floor for Additional Support
-Thickness of Poured Concrete: Minimum of 7"
-5 Piers dug 12" in Diameter, Minimum of 36" Deep, tied together with rebar
-Depth of Finished Recess: 7" from Garage Floor to Recessed Floor
-Hydraulic Cement was used to Finish out the Hole Sides / Uprights
-I waited 30 days for all Concrete to Cure before Drilling / Anchoring Composite Sides
-Size of Aluminum Plates: 8" x 24" x 1/4" Sourced from Ebay
-PVC Pipe used to run lines through is 1 1/2", Coring Bit used to Drill Floor was 2"
-I did place a piece of 1 1/2" PVC Pipe into Concrete on Front Corner of Recess to act as a Drain just in case
-If you pursue my custom made release lever or find you need a longer cable (Bicycle brake cable), I had no luck sourcing one so I made my own:
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ble?highlight=
Lastly, When figuring out where to cut your hole, remember that you don't want to simply center it up since the lifting table is offset on the actual lift. If you go to the first page and look at the piece of corrugated I used please notice where I drew everything, the hydraulics are at one end and the lifting table is 20" offset to the other end. Contrary to what many would think, the table does not shift or move to the center of the hole or lift when raised, it pretty much remains in the same vertical plane when rising.
Good Luck Gentlemen.......
12-14-2013, 02:00 PM
#81
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
12-15-2013, 05:13 PM
#82
Rennlist Member
Mark- I do have a question that just crossed my mind, you or anyone else here can answer:
Just say 2-3 years from now you had to move for a job or whatever, how do you handle/transport this lift? I don't plan on moving any time soon, but good to know. Thanks
Just say 2-3 years from now you had to move for a job or whatever, how do you handle/transport this lift? I don't plan on moving any time soon, but good to know. Thanks
12-15-2013, 05:15 PM
#83
Moving the next town over? Have a flat bed tow truck come pull it out and drop it off.
Moving across the country? I think you'd prob be better off selling and buying new??
Moving across the country? I think you'd prob be better off selling and buying new??
12-15-2013, 05:21 PM
#84
Rennlist Member
12-15-2013, 05:24 PM
#85
Three Wheelin'
Maybe the new owners like the idea of the lift, so you sell it to them and buy a new one. Otherwise, craigslist, car forum and sell it, youll want to upgrade anyway since moving is a pain.
12-15-2013, 07:17 PM
#86
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The other guys echoed my thoughts; if moving and can use it (local) take it with on a flat bed trailer, fill in hole with concrete and smooth over for ~$320 for cost of concrete. If moving and can't use it try to sell for ~ $1000 locally then fill in hole. If selling house to a car guy, use it as a sales tool. It really is not that big of a problem.
12-15-2013, 08:47 PM
#87
Rennlist Member
The second cross town move, I think they got us for $150.
No issue at all, IMO.
Not when a new one is more than $600 more than what I paid for my Bendpak. It's heavy, but it is somewhat portable, so it really isn't a big deal.
12-16-2013, 08:10 AM
#90
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Latest use was winterizing lawn mowers and tuning up the snow blower, you just don't realize how nice it is to bring projects off the ground to work on without bending over / squatting. Refinished some serious speakers for the man cave a couple of months ago:
