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Jay,
Here's the deal... If your ignition switch is in any way not functioning smoothly and properly as you "key in" your code digits, then the programming code could very well be going in incorrectlyly, which would explain it not working for you.
HTH
Gotta be something like that.
Yesterday I put in a new battery and eliminated low voltage as a possible cause - it was on my "to-do" list anyway so no wasted time or $.
Car is cranking strongly again. Still no luck programming the FOB, though. I still have the 2 discrepencies noted in my previous post in the way the warning light behaves compared to the ECU video. All told, I've done the procedure at least a dozen times now, always with the same result.
I read FOBs can be programmed separate from the car. Any idea where you can go to get that done?
The ignition switch on the back of the key mechanism is not expensive and is a plug-in to replace item. Swapping it out for a new one may eliminate any electrical noise from a dirty switch that may be interfering with the procedure.
Also, the on position for the procedure is when the dash lights illuminate
The off position is when the lights go out but before the key release from the ignition lock.
Is this consistent with what you are doing?
Well...the dash lights definitely illuminate when i go to the ON position (like in the video), and they definitely go out when I go to the OFF position (like in the video). Not quite sure what you mean by "before the key release". I just crank the key all the way to left like I do when turning off the car (without removing the key, obviously). I tried to exactly copy the way the guy did it in the ECU Doc video, since it definitely worked.
I suppose a noisy switch is possible and I can first try some contact cleaner. What's the procedure to get the switch out?
Having tried everything and still no luck programming the second FOB, I spoke to Jorge at ECU Docs yesterday (the guy in the video). He confirms, based on the behavior of my immobilizer light, what I suspected might be the case - that the immobilizer just wasn't going into "learn" mode. I'm going to send the Immobilizer and both FOBS down to them to program on a quick turn-around. It may be possible at the same time to figure out and fix why it's not going into learn mode. It may be related to something I saw last season where every so often the immobilizer light would come on for a few seconds while driving then go off. Thought it was just a fluke at the time, but maybe it was related.
ECU Docs seem like nice people to deal with and if it weren't for that video they posted I'd probably have even less hair.
. I'm going to send the Immobilizer and both FOBS down to them to program on a quick turn-around.:
While you module is out being tested/fixed, consider removing the clock opening it up and reheating the internal solder joints ( a kitchen table job) as it is a known issue that some of the joints may be poorly soldered. Solves electrical issues for some.
Andy
Jay,
Here's the deal... If your ignition switch is in any way not functioning smoothly and properly as you "key in" your code digits, then the programming code could very well be going in incorrectlyly, which would explain it not working for you.
HTH
Your post indicates the most likely. I've seen this and solved this issue many times for independents and Porsche dealers.
Document updated 6/23/2017
Dear Rennlisters,
Attached is an easy to follow step by step chart to deactivate the ignition
immobilizer and add remote key fobs to your 1995 on 993 (up to 4 fobs total).
It makes the process easier to follow when you are in the car actually going
through the process. I recently updated the form by adding setup steps to the beginning of the form and notes at the end on how to do the process.
-fill in your cars immobilizer code digits on Setup Steps 3 through 6 and
-keep the form in a safe place for an emergency.
As always use my posting information at your own risk!
Andy
Andy:
I have a 1996 993 that leaked during Harvey just enough to submerge the ECU under the driver's seat... It had to be replaced and got a new FOB to accompany it which works fine. I still have the old switchblade key from when the car was new and would like to code that FOB to the new ECU - if that is even the correct nomneclature (coding to the ECU)? The old switchblade key has a cardboard card with a stamped 4 digit code which I assume is the key code for replacement? Is this also the immobilizer code or would that be someplace else on that card - or since a new ECU was put in the car would any of these old codes on the original card still work? I understand that I cannot reprogram the switchblade FOB unless I have the immobilizer 4 digit code, but would this be different now that the car has a new ECU or will the code still be the same as from the time the car was purchased new?
do you have to pull the pasenger seat to find that immobilizer serial number? The block code on the original key card is supposed to be it, but it does not work - maybe due to a new ECU being placed in the car after the origianl got wet..?
I have a recently acquired 1995 C2. I have the build sheet from Sun Coast's VIN service. Do all 1995s have this functionality or do I need to verify a specific option code?
I'll need to order a fob also. Looks like the part # is 993-618-259-01 and it's $200-$225. I see the ECU Doctor's option but not much detail. Any other options? Thanks
I am trying to convert my switchblade key fob for my '97 Carrera to a key head and separate remote housing (from Pelican). I can easily install the hand remote, but I cannot get the key out of the switchblade unit. I can remove the cap and spring, the key remain stubbornly attached. I am following the instructions posted on Pelican (https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...itchblade2.htm). Has anyone successfully carried out this procedure, and if so is there a trick to getting the key out? CAP and spring are out, but the key won't budge!
There is a little wedge the spring holds in place in a notch in the key stalk probably stuck in-position in the bottom of the hole you removed the cover & locking spring from. Try pushing the stalk into the housing while rapping the housing on its side to release the wedge. If it won't come loose, you may need to cut the switchblade housing apart to get the key stalk out.
Andy
There is a little wedge the spring holds in place in a notch in the key stalk probably stuck in-position in the bottom of the hole you removed the cover & locking spring from. Try pushing the stalk into the housing while rapping the housing on its side to release the wedge. If it won't come loose, you may need to cut the switchblade housing apart to get the key stalk out.
Andy
Thanks Shade. I finally gave up and ordered a new key from the local Porsche dealer. $198 for the key. Well, that's Porsche.
Hi gentlemen,
I reread again the whole thread trying to find what's wrong in my tries to program a new keyfob on my 993 (1996). And I notice the you're talking about " immobilizer code".
I have a card with a 4 digit code on a red and white card and it says "main key". And that's the code I used without success. So I guess the immobilizer code is not that one. I went this afternoon to explain my problem to a Porsche dealer, he confirm my key code was correct and he told me that I could not program a key by myself. I would have to leave my car for them to do the job as they would have to connect to the Porsche server...
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