Remote Key Fob Programming made Easy Revised!
#16
I finally figured out my problem with programming my new remote, figured I'd share here in case someone else is as dumb as me.
there was a thread about LED bulbs, which I have in the front trunk light, didn't seem to be an issue. Had the interior lights turned off, moved them to on. No idea if that was a help or not. But closing the engine lid was sure helpful, doh!. I always leave mine up after I drive the car and tend to keep it open cause I am lazy. Well that sucker needs to be closed for it to work and it did like a charm.
rob
there was a thread about LED bulbs, which I have in the front trunk light, didn't seem to be an issue. Had the interior lights turned off, moved them to on. No idea if that was a help or not. But closing the engine lid was sure helpful, doh!. I always leave mine up after I drive the car and tend to keep it open cause I am lazy. Well that sucker needs to be closed for it to work and it did like a charm.
rob
Doors, dome, and side cabin lights, glovebox light, frunk light engine bay light, and micro switches for all, including the clutch.
Last edited by nine9six; 03-03-2018 at 04:21 PM.
#19
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is what prompted me to create the step-by-step instructions posted earlier in this thread in the "action then response" format. Even trying to keep my version as simple as possible involved a lengthy notes list that should be read off-line before going through the procedure.
Andy
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Sagres74 (01-14-2024)
#20
Two questions about Key fob programming???
Does having a DME with the immobilizer disabled alter this procedure in any way, ie, bypass any steps?
How does one deactivate a key fob or does its absence during the procedure deactivate it by default?
Thanks for any info.
-rb
How does one deactivate a key fob or does its absence during the procedure deactivate it by default?
Thanks for any info.
-rb
#21
the key fob. Obviously, one must still press the key fob to lock/unlock the vehicle.
at the correct time during the procedure. Then the key fob will no longer be able to lock/unlock that vehicle.
#22
I'm referring to steps C, D and #1 in the procedure. Since my immobilizer has been bypassed in the DME, the sequence of events seems off. I get a steady alarm after step #1 when following the steps as written.
I have two functioning fobs and am attempting to program two more blanks so I'm ignoring the non-working fob version of steps A-D. and going to the working fob version.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
-rb
I have two functioning fobs and am attempting to program two more blanks so I'm ignoring the non-working fob version of steps A-D. and going to the working fob version.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
-rb
#23
I'm referring to steps C, D and #1 in the procedure. Since my immobilizer has been bypassed in the DME, the sequence of events seems off. I get a steady alarm after step #1 when following the steps as written.
I have two functioning fobs and am attempting to program two more blanks so I'm ignoring the non-working fob version of steps A-D. and going to the working fob version.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
-rb
I have two functioning fobs and am attempting to program two more blanks so I'm ignoring the non-working fob version of steps A-D. and going to the working fob version.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks,
-rb
i.e. the rear section that senses the key in the ignition switch. Also if the switch contacts "bounce",
the wrong number of key ons/offs will be input.
#24
Loren,
Seems it goes a little deeper. When my DME was chipped (which is fine) I had the immobilizer deactivated. This in turn, made the immobilizer lamp blink continually so I removed the bulb. All was well. With time, I forgot about this little wrinkle. When I replaced the bulb at one AM this morning I was once again confronted with the blinking bulb. I assume it's now unable to provide the necessary information to program a fob. It's been suggested that it may be possible with the aid of a PST-2.
Thanks,
-rb
Seems it goes a little deeper. When my DME was chipped (which is fine) I had the immobilizer deactivated. This in turn, made the immobilizer lamp blink continually so I removed the bulb. All was well. With time, I forgot about this little wrinkle. When I replaced the bulb at one AM this morning I was once again confronted with the blinking bulb. I assume it's now unable to provide the necessary information to program a fob. It's been suggested that it may be possible with the aid of a PST-2.
Thanks,
-rb
#25
Loren,
Seems it goes a little deeper. When my DME was chipped (which is fine) I had the immobilizer deactivated. This in turn, made the immobilizer lamp blink continually so I removed the bulb. All was well. With time, I forgot about this little wrinkle. When I replaced the bulb at one AM this morning I was once again confronted with the blinking bulb. I assume it's now unable to provide the necessary information to program a fob. It's been suggested that it may be possible with the aid of a PST-2.
Thanks,
-rb
Seems it goes a little deeper. When my DME was chipped (which is fine) I had the immobilizer deactivated. This in turn, made the immobilizer lamp blink continually so I removed the bulb. All was well. With time, I forgot about this little wrinkle. When I replaced the bulb at one AM this morning I was once again confronted with the blinking bulb. I assume it's now unable to provide the necessary information to program a fob. It's been suggested that it may be possible with the aid of a PST-2.
Thanks,
-rb
as to what state the immobilizer is in during programming.
2. Since your DME ECM was re-flashed, the immobilizer receives faulty feedback from the DME ECM,
causing the light to flash.
3. So you have two options:
a. disconnect the DME ECM while programming
b. program the immobilizer external to the vehicle
Another negative to re-flashing the 993 DME ECM!
#26
Former Vendor
RB,
Did you have the Immo bypassed by us? Let me know.
What's probably happening is that when you bypass the Immo system this "throws" off the Immo link blinking pattern on the clock.
See the last note here in this PDF: http://site.ecudoctors.com/tech-data...structions.pdf
The only option at that point is to have us program the fobs directly on a bench.
Did you have the Immo bypassed by us? Let me know.
What's probably happening is that when you bypass the Immo system this "throws" off the Immo link blinking pattern on the clock.
See the last note here in this PDF: http://site.ecudoctors.com/tech-data...structions.pdf
The only option at that point is to have us program the fobs directly on a bench.
#27
This is getting more interesting.
No, you did not bypass my immobilizer.
I'm using a '96 DME with an active immobilizer to program the fobs. I have a '97 DME which has been chipped and has the immobilizer deactivated. I will reinstall it once my new fobs are programmed.
When I use the '96 with the working immobilizer the procedure goes smoothly till the last step. When I press the original working fob to program it, I get a continuous flashing LED on the door frame for as long as I hold the button down. The fob remains programmed. When I press the new fob, there is no flash or flashining LED response on the door frame. The new fob LED will flash once when I release its button. It is not programmed.
Is it possible that the dealer has provided me the wrong code? If so, would my original fobs behave the way they do?
Could it be that my immobilizer is not original and it's code does not match the factory code for the vehicle?
Thanks,
-rb
No, you did not bypass my immobilizer.
I'm using a '96 DME with an active immobilizer to program the fobs. I have a '97 DME which has been chipped and has the immobilizer deactivated. I will reinstall it once my new fobs are programmed.
When I use the '96 with the working immobilizer the procedure goes smoothly till the last step. When I press the original working fob to program it, I get a continuous flashing LED on the door frame for as long as I hold the button down. The fob remains programmed. When I press the new fob, there is no flash or flashining LED response on the door frame. The new fob LED will flash once when I release its button. It is not programmed.
Is it possible that the dealer has provided me the wrong code? If so, would my original fobs behave the way they do?
Could it be that my immobilizer is not original and it's code does not match the factory code for the vehicle?
Thanks,
-rb
#28
Yes or the unit has been replaced w/o the code being updated with the dealer.
Yes, because the coding effort was ineffectual.
Yes!
Without the correct code, even a bench coding effort is useless without accessing directly
the micro-controller inside the immobilizer.
Yes, because the coding effort was ineffectual.
Without the correct code, even a bench coding effort is useless without accessing directly
the micro-controller inside the immobilizer.
#29
Hmmm... This is all very good information, not what I wanted to hear but what I expected might be the case.
So, I take it the continuously flashing door LED's at the end of my fob programming routine indicates a code mismatch. What would the signal be if the match was correct?
The assumption here is that my coding procedure is correct because I got this far.
Thanks, Loren.
-rb
So, I take it the continuously flashing door LED's at the end of my fob programming routine indicates a code mismatch. What would the signal be if the match was correct?
The assumption here is that my coding procedure is correct because I got this far.
Thanks, Loren.
-rb