I strongly suspect this same requirement may extend to other lighting and micro switches on the same circuit.

Doors, dome, and side cabin lights, glovebox light, frunk light engine bay light, and micro switches for all, including the clutch.

 

The instruction is different from the one found in the workshop manual. Is this just another way to accomplish the same thing?

 

Can you point out what differences you are talking about?

As far as we know there is only 1 procedure to program the 993 key fobs in the car.

 

Seems that some of the above document is missing as it discusses time-outs but is missing programming steps. I feel most people trip over the factory instructions because trying to read them while programming slows them down to the point where one of the programming time-outs is reached and they find they need to start over, sometimes several times.

This is what prompted me to create the step-by-step instructions posted earlier in this thread in the "action then response" format. Even trying to keep my version as simple as possible involved a lengthy notes list that should be read off-line before going through the procedure.

Andy

 

Does having a DME with the immobilizer disabled alter this procedure in any way, ie, bypass any steps?

How does one deactivate a key fob or does its absence during the procedure deactivate it by default?

Thanks for any info.

-rb

 

No. The re-flashing of the DME ECM results in the engine being started without having to press
the key fob. Obviously, one must still press the key fob to lock/unlock the vehicle.

The key fob will become deactivated during the procedure if one doesn't press the key fob
at the correct time during the procedure. Then the key fob will no longer be able to lock/unlock that vehicle.

 

I'm referring to steps C, D and #1 in the procedure. Since my immobilizer has been bypassed in the DME, the sequence of events seems off. I get a steady alarm after step #1 when following the steps as written.

I have two functioning fobs and am attempting to program two more blanks so I'm ignoring the non-working fob version of steps A-D. and going to the working fob version.

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,

-rb

 

The most common problem when attempting to program the immobilizer results from a bad ignition switch;
i.e. the rear section that senses the key in the ignition switch. Also if the switch contacts "bounce",
the wrong number of key ons/offs will be input.

 

Loren,

Seems it goes a little deeper. When my DME was chipped (which is fine) I had the immobilizer deactivated. This in turn, made the immobilizer lamp blink continually so I removed the bulb. All was well. With time, I forgot about this little wrinkle. When I replaced the bulb at one AM this morning I was once again confronted with the blinking bulb. I assume it's now unable to provide the necessary information to program a fob. It's been suggested that it may be possible with the aid of a PST-2.

Thanks,

-rb

 

1. The immobilizer bulb is a necessary element to programming key fobs, since it provides feedback
as to what state the immobilizer is in during programming.
2. Since your DME ECM was re-flashed, the immobilizer receives faulty feedback from the DME ECM,
causing the light to flash.
3. So you have two options:
a. disconnect the DME ECM while programming
b. program the immobilizer external to the vehicle

Another negative to re-flashing the 993 DME ECM!

 

RB,

Did you have the Immo bypassed by us? Let me know.

What's probably happening is that when you bypass the Immo system this "throws" off the Immo link blinking pattern on the clock.

See the last note here in this PDF: http://site.ecudoctors.com/tech-data...structions.pdf

The only option at that point is to have us program the fobs directly on a bench.

 

This is getting more interesting.

No, you did not bypass my immobilizer.

I'm using a '96 DME with an active immobilizer to program the fobs. I have a '97 DME which has been chipped and has the immobilizer deactivated. I will reinstall it once my new fobs are programmed.

When I use the '96 with the working immobilizer the procedure goes smoothly till the last step. When I press the original working fob to program it, I get a continuous flashing LED on the door frame for as long as I hold the button down. The fob remains programmed. When I press the new fob, there is no flash or flashining LED response on the door frame. The new fob LED will flash once when I release its button. It is not programmed.

Is it possible that the dealer has provided me the wrong code? If so, would my original fobs behave the way they do?

Could it be that my immobilizer is not original and it's code does not match the factory code for the vehicle?

Thanks,

-rb

 

Yes or the unit has been replaced w/o the code being updated with the dealer.

Yes, because the coding effort was ineffectual.

Yes!

Without the correct code, even a bench coding effort is useless without accessing directly
the micro-controller inside the immobilizer.

 

Hmmm... This is all very good information, not what I wanted to hear but what I expected might be the case.

So, I take it the continuously flashing door LED's at the end of my fob programming routine indicates a code mismatch. What would the signal be if the match was correct?

The assumption here is that my coding procedure is correct because I got this far.

Thanks, Loren.

-rb

 

Morning guys,

Yesterday we did a quick video on how to program the Porsche 911 993 keyless entry remotes.

Let me know what you think.