Quick immobilizer help
#16
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Indy, IN USA
Posts: 27
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Man, I've been too busy and missed this post. I'll reference a few threads that I listed my experiences in last year. I hope your issues have resolved. My experience was a total nightmare.
Clear and present danger
another clue
earlier clue
first signs of trouble
PM me if you have any specific questions. I could, unfortunately, write a doctoral dissertation on the topic.
BTW, it is possible to remove your immobilizer...but you also have to replace the ECU and perform several harness adjustments (shorting, disconnections, etc). A total PITA and expensive, but possible. I'm still investigating replacing mine with a track-only style setup. You don't hear of clubbers having immobilizer issues.
Clear and present danger
another clue
earlier clue
first signs of trouble
PM me if you have any specific questions. I could, unfortunately, write a doctoral dissertation on the topic.
BTW, it is possible to remove your immobilizer...but you also have to replace the ECU and perform several harness adjustments (shorting, disconnections, etc). A total PITA and expensive, but possible. I'm still investigating replacing mine with a track-only style setup. You don't hear of clubbers having immobilizer issues.
#17
Grrr... I'm at the dealer and they can't fix it. Never had an issue before. My remote wouldn't work and I manually unlocked the door and quickly tried to crank it. No dice. He tried to reprogram. Got the car started but the remote still won't work. Car is running now but can't turn the alarm off. He plans to unhook immobilizzer but says the flashers will still act as if armed. Any help?
#18
Something small to consider: check the door switches to make sure they are actuating and any hood/trunk switches to make sure they are fully operating and seating.
I'm not a body electrical guru, more engine management than body E.
Also, have you checked the current draw while you are having immobilizer issues? If your draw is over 35milliamps the immobilizer may still be looking for another signal.
The intermittency makes me think contact points.
I'm not a body electrical guru, more engine management than body E.
Also, have you checked the current draw while you are having immobilizer issues? If your draw is over 35milliamps the immobilizer may still be looking for another signal.
The intermittency makes me think contact points.