Adding second remote to 993
06-23-2004, 05:42 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
06-23-2004, 06:04 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Mike
-right click on the page (not the picture)
-click on 'properties'
-highlight address (url) and 'copy'
-'paste' url into your reply
max
-right click on the page (not the picture)
-click on 'properties'
-highlight address (url) and 'copy'
-'paste' url into your reply
max
09-26-2004, 12:06 PM
#19
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
programming additional immobilizer remotes
I have just sucessfully programmed 3 immobilizer key fobs (remotes) (2 are new) to my 97 C4S, and like to get this info for other rennlisters.
Please note that a few weeks ago, my local P-dealer was unable to program additional remotes. (after charging my 0.5 hr labor) they claimed that they could not get the car into the programming mode and what they can do (and they had seen this before) is to charge me 4 hours labor to remove the driver seat to get to the immobilizer and program it in another car.
I had tried do it myself thinking the dealer is full of sh!$... with no success.
(I even bought a used immobilizer from Princeton, thinking THATis the curlpit)
on a side note: Since I own the car last year, my car interior lights (glove box, ignition key courtesy light and trunk lights) never lit up, which I am glad during the winter while I have the hood open to keep the battery on ticker charger.
OK, IMPORTANT INFO, ALL I needed is to replace the blown out Fuse #11 and the car will get into the learning mode. I can easily see other creative minds would remove this fuse for the same reason.
Also I like to make some corrections to Tim993 instructions.
When Tim said unlock, lock, unlock the door, I had to physcally insert and turn the key in the driver door cylinder. I followed the shop manual instruction as if my remote is malfunction. To have the car fully armed then unlock the car with the KEY in the cylinder (which activate the alarm) The console switch or the remotes did not work for me. Also in step #7, the sequence is off-on, off-on, off-on (for # 3)(per the shop manual) not on-offs as stated by Tim.
Now I have Princeton Immobilizer that I don't need. Any takers ?
Gerry
Please note that a few weeks ago, my local P-dealer was unable to program additional remotes. (after charging my 0.5 hr labor) they claimed that they could not get the car into the programming mode and what they can do (and they had seen this before) is to charge me 4 hours labor to remove the driver seat to get to the immobilizer and program it in another car.
I had tried do it myself thinking the dealer is full of sh!$... with no success.
(I even bought a used immobilizer from Princeton, thinking THATis the curlpit)
on a side note: Since I own the car last year, my car interior lights (glove box, ignition key courtesy light and trunk lights) never lit up, which I am glad during the winter while I have the hood open to keep the battery on ticker charger.
OK, IMPORTANT INFO, ALL I needed is to replace the blown out Fuse #11 and the car will get into the learning mode. I can easily see other creative minds would remove this fuse for the same reason.
Also I like to make some corrections to Tim993 instructions.
When Tim said unlock, lock, unlock the door, I had to physcally insert and turn the key in the driver door cylinder. I followed the shop manual instruction as if my remote is malfunction. To have the car fully armed then unlock the car with the KEY in the cylinder (which activate the alarm) The console switch or the remotes did not work for me. Also in step #7, the sequence is off-on, off-on, off-on (for # 3)(per the shop manual) not on-offs as stated by Tim.
Now I have Princeton Immobilizer that I don't need. Any takers ?
Gerry
Originally Posted by Tim993
Shawn, I am not sure what went wrong with the initial sequence for you. I think that it might have something to do with alarm being set when locking from the remote? When I did it my car was unlocked for awhile and I was able to just open the door and lock the door from the console and then after waiting maybe a minute or two I again used the console button to initiate the unlock, lock, unlock sequence.
It looks like there might be enough interest for me to just go ahead and post the sheet in a thread. I tried to "dumb it down" as much as possible when I wrote it due to the time sensitve nature of steps.
1. Get into car and lock the door. Review your cheat sheet.
2. Unlock, lock and unlock the door right after another. ( 5 second limit to do this)
3. Open the door right after you unlock it in step 2 and turn on the ignition. The ignition is in the on positon right before it engages the starter. -10 second limit
4. Wait for the warning light to go off (it is between 3 and 4 o'clock on the dash clock) . This should happen within 15 seconds.
5. After the light goes off, switch the ingnition off and then back on. -5 second limit.
6. Wait for the warning light to start flashing after 15 seconds.
7. After the light starts flashing, you have 5 seconds to start entering your code. Note that the igniton is all ready at the on position at this point so the sequence to enter the code is on-off for each number. The number 3 for example is on-off, on-off, on-off.
8. After each number is input the warning light will come on to acknowledge the correct entry..
9. After all four numbers have been correctly entered the warning light will start flashing.
10. Now press the remote button and keep pressed until the little red light on the door starts flashing. Now press the button on your next remote and keep it pressed until the red door light is flashing again and so on.
This work on 96 models and later. 95's look to be much more involved.
It looks like there might be enough interest for me to just go ahead and post the sheet in a thread. I tried to "dumb it down" as much as possible when I wrote it due to the time sensitve nature of steps.
1. Get into car and lock the door. Review your cheat sheet.
2. Unlock, lock and unlock the door right after another. ( 5 second limit to do this)
3. Open the door right after you unlock it in step 2 and turn on the ignition. The ignition is in the on positon right before it engages the starter. -10 second limit
4. Wait for the warning light to go off (it is between 3 and 4 o'clock on the dash clock) . This should happen within 15 seconds.
5. After the light goes off, switch the ingnition off and then back on. -5 second limit.
6. Wait for the warning light to start flashing after 15 seconds.
7. After the light starts flashing, you have 5 seconds to start entering your code. Note that the igniton is all ready at the on position at this point so the sequence to enter the code is on-off for each number. The number 3 for example is on-off, on-off, on-off.
8. After each number is input the warning light will come on to acknowledge the correct entry..
9. After all four numbers have been correctly entered the warning light will start flashing.
10. Now press the remote button and keep pressed until the little red light on the door starts flashing. Now press the button on your next remote and keep it pressed until the red door light is flashing again and so on.
This work on 96 models and later. 95's look to be much more involved.
07-30-2005, 07:38 PM
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Indy, IN USA
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Originally Posted by Novice
I have just sucessfully programmed 3 immobilizer key fobs (remotes) (2 are new) to my 97 C4S, and like to get this info for other rennlisters.
Please note that a few weeks ago, my local P-dealer was unable to program additional remotes. (after charging my 0.5 hr labor) they claimed that they could not get the car into the programming mode and what they can do (and they had seen this before) is to charge me 4 hours labor to remove the driver seat to get to the immobilizer and program it in another car.
I had tried do it myself thinking the dealer is full of sh!$... with no success.
(I even bought a used immobilizer from Princeton, thinking THATis the curlpit)
on a side note: Since I own the car last year, my car interior lights (glove box, ignition key courtesy light and trunk lights) never lit up, which I am glad during the winter while I have the hood open to keep the battery on ticker charger.
OK, IMPORTANT INFO, ALL I needed is to replace the blown out Fuse #11 and the car will get into the learning mode. I can easily see other creative minds would remove this fuse for the same reason...
Please note that a few weeks ago, my local P-dealer was unable to program additional remotes. (after charging my 0.5 hr labor) they claimed that they could not get the car into the programming mode and what they can do (and they had seen this before) is to charge me 4 hours labor to remove the driver seat to get to the immobilizer and program it in another car.
I had tried do it myself thinking the dealer is full of sh!$... with no success.
(I even bought a used immobilizer from Princeton, thinking THATis the curlpit)
on a side note: Since I own the car last year, my car interior lights (glove box, ignition key courtesy light and trunk lights) never lit up, which I am glad during the winter while I have the hood open to keep the battery on ticker charger.
OK, IMPORTANT INFO, ALL I needed is to replace the blown out Fuse #11 and the car will get into the learning mode. I can easily see other creative minds would remove this fuse for the same reason...
The service manager first attempted to reprogram the new remotes, but after 1 hour gave up. He then got one of his technicians to come up and give it a try. He failed too. They stated that I'd have to leave the car with them for a day - that's right, a whole day that could be completely billable. I said, "no thanks" and came home and hit this list for suggestions.
With Tim993's assistance (responded to my plee for help within hours and sent me his cheat-sheet...I owe ya one buddy!
) I came within minutes of completing the job. I just could never get the immobilizer into program mode. Then I saw your comment about fuse #11. My heart jumped! I ran our to the garage, threw open the bonnet and pulled fuse #11...BLOWN!!! Now, as soon as I buy more 7.5A fuses, I'll retry the procedure tonight.If nothing else, I hope others will benefit from this info. This problem has plagued me for over a year!
08-01-2005, 02:11 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orange County, So Cal
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I did the switchblade-to-remote conversion with one of my keys and it works great. The other switchblade key fob does not work and will not program (it's not the battery). The LED in the remote just blinks when you hold it down... it will not give me a steady glow. The dealer told me that I probably just need a new set-up... nice $150.
