Monte_Christo

All,

Not sure how to explain this one but here is my best shot ... I have a '96 993 that will not lock anymore with the remote [or at all for that matter cause the alarm goes off if I use the key]. When I stop the car to get out it just dings at me like light the lights are on but they are not. If I press the remote to lock the car instead of locking the red light that indicates the alarm is active just blinks quickly and the car will not lock. The other nuance to this is that it will on occasion actually work but for no good reason. I cannot tell if the ignition is jacked up or if there is some other electrical problem.

As always, you all are the best and thanks for your help.

Regards,
Josh

richardew

I had trouble with locking and unlocking mine about 6-7 years ago. It was a relay that was hung up. The relay was under the passenger seat (there are 2). The mechanic did a temporary fix (hit it a few times with a hammer) and ordered a new relay. BY the way, that temporary fix solved the problem and I saved that relay as a spare. I'm out of town and don't have the P car with me so I can't snap a photo of the relay until I'm back in town Friday.

six gun

Josh,

Have you changed the battery in the key remote lately ?

richardew

here is a page from dc auto that has a picture of the part
http://dcauto.gotdns.com/catalog/ind...6003&model=993

chet

I think one time I tried to lock the car while something was open, either my driver side door or the front lid or something, and the red lights blinked a couple of times and the car didn't lock. If I'm remembering that correctly, then it might behave like that if a bad sensor or connection somewhere is causing it to think that you are trying to lock it with one of the doors open.

fullbooker

Josh,
My '96 993 Targa has the same disease. Sometimes, after driving the car, I park and try to lock it and it won't work. If I try later, 20+ minutes, it works.
It's driving me crazy.
How much is the relay?
Phil

dfsmith2

I had the same problem with my 96 tt, I replaced a relay in the passenger side and the problem was fixed, something about completing the circuit and a stuck relay, I could look up the part number is you want.

Dave

PDriver

Hi Dave, please let us know which relay it was. What's the part number?

PDriver

dfsmith2

Just pulled out my receipts the part is described as a "Lock Element" part number P928-624-211-00

Hope that helps

rufstuf

Josh,
Were you able to fix your problem?

Monte_Christo

No, not yet. I've been busy with work and business school. From what I can tell the ignition switch needs to be "re-calibrated". The procedure is outlined at the following website:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...mobilizer2.htm

I don't get what this thing is telling me. My car is '96 manual transmission. So I think the instructions say I need to take out my left seat and perform surgery. Am I missing something?

Again, all your all's help is greatly appreciated.

kdorsey

I've had similar problems throughout my ownership of my '97 C2S. It's not possible to add another remote (even the dealer has tried, unsuccessfully) but everything else has functioned somewhat normally. But over the past 6 months, remote batteries seem to be failing at an alarming rate. Either that or something else is going on.

I just pulled into the parking garage at work and attempted to lock my Pcar. Nothing. I mean NOTHING. When depressed, the remote light shows steady, but after 2 seconds starts to flash. The relative affective range of the remote has seemed to diminish, which prompted replacing the battery. But this battery is 2months old and should not be the issue. But now I'm just about screwed if the remote refuses to trigger the immobilizer when I leave for home this evening.

By the way, it's common for later model immobilizers ('97-'98) to refuse recalibration. (according to my dealer)

A new battery is on the way. I'll update later.

kdorsey

*UPDATE*
Yep. I'm screwed. The immobilizer refuses all communication from the remote and opening the car with the key, obviously, sets off the alarm.

Knowing that my immobilizer is probably fried, wouldn't I be better off going ahead and ordering the replacement and handling the exchange myself? The dealership had the same problems that I did before, so I feel uneasy about paying someone else to walk in my footsteps only to come to the same conclusion. The replacement of the unit is pretty much a plug-n-play process, I believe. Has anyone else gone through this procedure?

BTW, Monte Cristo, if yours is a '96, you don't have to get under the seat. That's only necessary for the '94. You have to do the "German Two Step" in the ignition.

H.H.Chinn

I had our local dealer program two brand new alarm fobs after the only fob from the PO fell down into the elevator shaft at the office. A long story short, because it happened at the lobby, it only fell 12 feet through the gap instead of the +160' if getting off on the 15th. The elevator repair guys fished it out and returned them to me in pristine condition, but just to note that every alarm fob OLD AND NEW must be reprogrammed at the same time. I have a '98, no problems, knock on wood, but there are only two guys at this dealer that know how to perform this ritual.

Monte_Christo

Yes, I learned the hard way about the alarm going off ... damn that thing is loud and it won't shut off.