delanobe

Thank you for the respons!

If the crank is damaged, screw wire, little pin etc.. Is it possible to fix that without taking the whole engine apart??

Thanks!!

Toga

This could be a very nice " while you're in there" to check when the engine is down! Honestly, I never had the idea to check that! Until next drop.

Thanks Viperbob.

delanobe

Does somebody have a picture of the bolt that attaches the pulley to the crankshaft?

If the material of the pulley or that bolt is softer than the material of the crankshaft could it be damaged????

Thanks!

Mike J

In order of hardness:

- The crankshaft is hardest
- The bolt is pretty hard but not treated like the crank
- The pin/pulley is softest

The bolt is pretty long since it has to go through the pully and into the crankshaft. I looked and do not have any direct shots of the bolt, sorry!

Cheers,

Mike

delanobe

It's official, the crank shaft pulley is broken

I'm so depressed right now

Who of you guru's can give me a qoute of the cost to fix this????

TIA

viperbob

Bummer. The question is difficult to answer without seeing the car. If it is just the pulley that is broken, it is about $250 parts and a couple of hours labor. Having the pulley broken could have other effects on the car by essentially causing an imbalance of the crankshaft. This can lead to premature bearing wear, and a number of other concerns. Hopefully it was not this way long on your car before you noticed it.

Mike J

Hmmm, can you explain what "the crank pulley is broken" means? The pulley and the bolt are not that expensive (as compered to ripping the engine apart). Obviously you must have taken something apart to get this far.....please post pictures since that is often the most efficient way to show the damage.

Best of luck!

Cheers,

Mike

delanobe

The end of the crank shaft pulley is damaged ( screw wire in the crank shaft, the hole were the pin slides in is also broken). Engine must be rebuild because the crank shaft must be replaced

Thanks

Mike J

Ouch! But I still don't fully understand. Do you mean the threads in the crankshaft are screwed up? I would not take the crank out unless its really really required...that is pretty expensive. I would drop the engine and see if the threads can be cleaned up. I think the reason for the pin is to make sure the pulley indicates TDC properly...its not essential for the operation of the engine. The damange has to be very major to require the crank to be replaced...I would very much like to see a picture of the end of the crankshaft with the pully removed. The threads in the crank go pretty deep so I can't see that the threads can't be chased (cleaned) out and there would be enough "meat" left in the threads to make sure the pully is nice and tight on the crank.

If you truely have to replace the crank then that is a worse case rebuild...the total engine has to be dissassembled to do that....

Best of luck!

Cheers,

Mike

carmad

This happened on my 930, pulley came loose and did slight damage to the end of the crankshaft, a few scuff marks, and slight damage to the outermost couple of threads in the crank. We were able to dress the end of the crank and chased the threads, replaced the pulley which was more severely damaged. Dropped the engine slightly to gain access to the end of the crank, Have not had any problems since.
Get a second opinion, as someone said in a previous post, the crank is very hard and durable, so the pulley will take most of the beating.

Toga

Wow wow wow!!! That's a bad news! You sure need more then one opinion on this before going for the big rebuild. If the threads are damaged, can 't we just re-thread with the appropriate tool?
Is there a way to check if this is happening on our cars before it goes to far?

You should may be offer Mike holidays in Belgium...

PLease keep us updated and if you have pics...

delanobe

It's not only the thread that is damaged, on the end of the crank shaft there is an opening were the pin slides in. Its like that pin melted (sideways) in that opening in a bad way....

I have an estimate of the dealer to rebuild the engine. Maybe Viper Bob can verify if this is reasonable or not???


Thanks

Estimate cost engine rebuild



1 Set of cilinder head gaskets 433,16 433,16
1 Set of piston bounces 117,39 117,39
1 Set of crank shaft bearings 207,93 207,93
1 Set of engine gaskets 62,58 62,58
6 Bearings traction rods 25,31 151,66
1 Crank shaft pulley 2824,86 2824,86
1 Bolt 2,58 2,58
1 Pulley 164,61 164,61
1 Pin 0,4 0,4
2 Belts 8,85 17,7
1 Belt 12,57 12,57
1 Sender belt 45,09 45,09
4 Bolts 5,8 23,2
2 Gaskets 7,89 15,78
1 support 35,65 35,65
22 Mobil 1 7,21 158,62
4 Cleaner 3,8 15,2

4288,98

46 Labor 54 2484


Without taxes Total 6772,98

kris

Sorry to hear the bad news. Which dealer will you be using? Is your quote in Euro or USD?

delanobe

I will be using Porsche Antwerpen, the qoute is in euros....

Thanks

Mike J

Again, I bet that engine will run fine until the next rebuild without the pin as long as the pulley bolt threads are good enough to hold the pully nice and tight on the shaft. The torque spec is quite high already and its only driving the fan etc. You could just get a new pulley and use red locktite when you attach the new pulley.

I don't see on the part's list the actual crankshaft...you said it needs to be replaced. That alone will bump up your totals quite a few euros! Oh, I think I see it now...its under "crank shaft pulley". Can't the end of the shaft be reconditioned by a good machine shop?

If you are going to go this far I would definitely not take it to a dealer since their rates are totally nuts but look for another shop. I am sure there are plenty of very good independents in your region. I would also get a second and third opinion on the crankshaft anyways since its always in the best interest of the dealer to maximize the work. (How about pulling out the wrenches and doing it yourself? Just kidding...that is certainly not for eveyone! ;-) )

If you do that much work I would also look at doing a valve job since the guides are usually quite worn. Even if they are close to the wear spec I would replace them because of the cost of the labour and parts just to get to that spot.

What shape is your clutch in? That is also a usual "while you are in there" item.

I would look at using all Viton gasket sets rather than the stock sets...better materials in the long run. You can get those from the US known as "Wrightwood Racing Gaskets". EBS will supply them.

Please post a picture of two of the end of the crankshaft so we can have a look!

Be cautious and don't listen to any single mechanic/person (or me!) ; shop around, ask questions and form your own opinion, be creative. IMHO there should be more ways to solve this problem than just a total rebuild...

Cheers,

Mike