sebcbien

So here is my wishlist:

I want an air cooled, (I've had a 994C4S)993 1996 in good shape, lowest km as possible.
I'm tall (196cm - 6"5) and have two kids (10-12 years old) to fit behind, I've tested a 964 with them and the driving position is not good for me, but they have more space.
Why 1996 ? I do not want the 1995 270CV model and in 2025, in wallonia, there is a "chance" that they will declare the whole region as LEZ... that means that if I buy a 1996 model, I can use it in 2023 and 2024, wait one year in 2025 and then register it as old timer in 2026 when she will have 30 years old (I can then drive 3000km/year)
At first I looked for C2/C2S, but after a lot of reading, I decided not to restrict only to those models and focus on colors I like and state of the car.
The colours I like:
Outside: grey/blue/green/bordeau (Black is very nice but a PITA to keep it clean)
Inside: Black/white/gray, maybe dark blue could be ok (but not light blue) Red is nice but not for a "daltonian" in my family... I like beige also if not too "classy" with a lot of "wood".

It's for Weekend driving and also to save a little from inflation ;-) , I will switch to old timer plate in 2026.
Budget is 100.000€ "max". I could invest more but I think it's a sweet spot.

Thanks :-)

My993_4s_Dave

I think it might take some time to find your dream car.
Despite the inflation and possible recession, prices for good 993 NB and especially WB will continue to increase.

Let me tell you, I had a guy interested in my 993 4s, we took a test drive and he had an appointment to look at another 993 4s in blue / blue with 34 K km more than my car.
He thought about the two cars and decided for the blue 993 4s.
That car had 94 K km and he paid EIRO 120 K for it.

In general, you should consider that higher milage cars might cause higher cost coming up earlier in your ownership, cars above 120 K km.

I wish you a good hand and good luck.

sebcbien

I like this one, +- 150km from home
But the seats seems to have received some "treatment" plastic restorer ?
The roof ceiling zip has also some marks .
And they seems quite used for 134000km ?
Here is one at 100.000km, seats are like new: https://www.autoscout24.be/fr/offres...3-e350040ae4cd

My993_4s_Dave

I would look at it. I had a 1996 grand prix white 993 C4 Cabriolet, it was a beautiful car. It had 100.000 km, that was in 2010/2011. That car had all options and all leather options possible.

Gbos1

Looks pretty nice! C4 is pretty rare … they didn’t make a whole lot of them.

orangecurry

Your english is excellent, and I apologize if my explanation does not translate well.

The earlier gearbox, G5021 for 2wd and G6421 for 4wd, has shorter ratios - this was fitted from 1st 993 until sometime late in 1996.

Sometime late in 1996, Porsche introduced the G5020 for 2wd and G6420 for 4wd, which has longer ratios for less emissions, but not so good for acceleration.

All WB cars have the later '20' gearbox. (Not the turbo of course)

Gbos1

Some Stock OEM Transmission comparisons Carrera 4 vs Turbo both AWD G64/21 and 51

My993_4s_Dave

Also keep in mind, that black is kind of a difficult color, it get dirty quickly.
I have a black BMW e30 Touring in 'diamantschwarz', you see everything on that color, especially in the spring time.

It won't be a big deal if you have a garage and only drive the car in good, dry weather, however, I'll never have a black car again.

The most forgiving colors are silver, white and grey.

You may also check this auction to get a good reference for a NB 993, this is actually also a C 4.
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/19...era-4-coupe-9/

sebcbien

@My993_4s_Dave Thanks for the link, very nice car, as far as I saw, the only "problem" seems to be one shock absorber and maybe a boot of the universal joint.
For the black colour, yes, been there done that ;-)
Now, well, it will be a dry weekend car, so maybe I could look at black again although washing cars is not my thing ;-)

orangecurry

European narrow body 1996 is IMO the best version to have - latest engine (varioram) and earlier gearbox (21)

Car is 'dry-sump' with smaller oil capacity in engine, larger capacity in reservoir, with thermostat valve between.

Three gauges give you information on oil - pressure, temperature, and level.

But oil level indicator is on the reservoir.

So - warm the engine by driving, not idling. In winter, getting to temperature can be difficult. For buying test-drive, first drive, then return to garage, park on level surface and ask seller if you can leave engine running.

This is the time sequence of actions from cold to warm =

1 - Cold - thermostat valve to reservoir is closed. Start engine - fast-idle oil pressure should be '5', temp 'lowest', level 'lowest' (probably)

2 - Warming - thermostat valve to reservoir is closed. Oil pressure should be high when loaded, gradually (as the oil warms) drop when idling. Temp will move from under 1st tick towards 2nd tick. Level will usually not register - may show when you come to a stop at a junction.

3 - Warm oil in engine - oil temp reaches 2nd tick (8 o'clock) - this should cause thermostat valve to reservoir to open.... all oil is in circulation.
** when this happens, temp needle will DROP about 2mm as cold oil is introduced into circulation.... if you do not see the drop, the thermostat has not opened - you cannot get an accurate level reading.
Also the colder oil may increase oil pressure on the gauge slightly.

4 - All oil in system needs to get warm and thermostat fully open
In winter, this will take time, and may not if outside on a cold day - but you should wait until the oil temp climbs back UP to the 2nd tick (8 o'clock)
Only now are you certain to get an accurate reading from the 'level' gauge.

Clear?

NOTE - the level as shown on the gauge CAN be wrong - the sender can be bent/faulty/stuck - ideally the level is also checked on the dipstick, but this is difficult as the engine is vibrating and the dipstick is difficult to read with clean oil.

orangecurry

Oil pressure (under load, at idle, and warm/cold) will vary depending on the condition of the engine/mileage of course, but also on the oil 'weight' chosen by the current owner. Oil choice has been very confusing over the years as Porsche stated (e.g.) 10W40 in 1996, then 0W40 when the water-cooled cars were being serviced in the 2000s, then Porsche say we must all use their expensive 'Classic' oil which may be 50 or even 60 weight....

This is a whole different argument that Rennlisters like to have, every few years, but basically until you know what weight of oil is in any test-drive car, oil-pressure readings should be viewed with common sense - not too high... not too low...

Even less clear?

orangecurry

So - why is all of my nonsense above important when buying an old Porsche?

1 - it gives you an idea of the current state of the engine - oil pressure from cold to warm, and idle, thermostat working properly, and is there enough oil in the engine - are the gauges working?

2 - it gives you an idea of the current owner - even more important.

You would think there is the correct oil level in the engine when the car is put up for sale. If NOT, then how much neglect has the car had over the ownership time?
Of course, the selling-garage may have topped-up oil (if they know how to get the correct level) but any clues are good if they are there to be found.

sebcbien

Thanks a lot @orangecurry very helpful !
What about the manual oil stick ? When is the level accurate to be read ? at cold ? Warm motor ?

sebcbien

BTW, I've called for this car, it's sold.
Looks like ti was a good price...
https://www.autoscout24.be/fr/offres...3-4a47512e7042

Peter65

And off to the next one. Prepare for some period of chasing opportunities and inspecting cars before you will find the right one. I went through a process of 8 months recently.