Defrost servo internal gear pix needed
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Defrost servo internal gear pix needed
Hi Fellow Rennlist People,
I have been trying to chase down my low A/C cold air performance since a few years ago when I took on the task to replace the Evaporator, Receiver Dryer, and rebuilt the Compressor. After all of that and a recharge by a local shop, the cold air was disappointing to me. I gathered lots of data about how the whole system works including the flapper valves, etc.
From observation, it looked like the defrost flap valve servo was 'stuttering' while activated. I removed the motor, split the case (lots of snap clips) to get to the PCB. After I cleaned the PCB tracks and Contacts with a soft #2 pencil eraser and alcohol (there was some black residue that came off). While working on putting the servo halves back together, several gears fell out. It is not obvious where they go! Does anyone have pictures of this that should make this assembly clear?
I searched high and low on this Forum and the Web....
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Big Major Thanks!!!!!!!
I have been trying to chase down my low A/C cold air performance since a few years ago when I took on the task to replace the Evaporator, Receiver Dryer, and rebuilt the Compressor. After all of that and a recharge by a local shop, the cold air was disappointing to me. I gathered lots of data about how the whole system works including the flapper valves, etc.
From observation, it looked like the defrost flap valve servo was 'stuttering' while activated. I removed the motor, split the case (lots of snap clips) to get to the PCB. After I cleaned the PCB tracks and Contacts with a soft #2 pencil eraser and alcohol (there was some black residue that came off). While working on putting the servo halves back together, several gears fell out. It is not obvious where they go! Does anyone have pictures of this that should make this assembly clear?
I searched high and low on this Forum and the Web....
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!
Big Major Thanks!!!!!!!
#2
Rennlist Member
Mr. Bock,
Be patient. PP00830, AKA Andy will provide all information, and more, relating to servo motors. You will receive detailed instructions on rebuilding servos, Andy's "toothpick" tip for separating the case, the name and email address of the company that sells replacement parts, and also instructions regarding the length of time to rebuild your servo. Andy will also describe an alternate use for your kitchen table. Look for the yellow submarine. We should rename PP00830 "SERVOMASTER." This information will all come together as soon as Andy responds.
Be patient. You won't be disappointed...
Be patient. PP00830, AKA Andy will provide all information, and more, relating to servo motors. You will receive detailed instructions on rebuilding servos, Andy's "toothpick" tip for separating the case, the name and email address of the company that sells replacement parts, and also instructions regarding the length of time to rebuild your servo. Andy will also describe an alternate use for your kitchen table. Look for the yellow submarine. We should rename PP00830 "SERVOMASTER." This information will all come together as soon as Andy responds.
Be patient. You won't be disappointed...
Last edited by Twilightblue28A; 09-23-2020 at 09:53 PM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Here's a pic. There are two identical gears in the servos, the one on top and the rightmost gear in this pic.
Use grease sparingly, especially on the worm gear, or it will move to slow. Do not use petroleum based grease, it will damage the plastic. If the large output gear (with the rotating contacts) is separated from the axle, it is very important to reassemble in the correct angle.
The most common cause for servo failure is a worn-out motor and resulting short-circuit. This causes excessive current and damages the end-of-travel switch tracks, and sometimes the CCU output drivers too.
The only remedy for this is to replace motor, PCB and output gear with sliding contacts. PARTisan Autoteile in Germany have a refurbish service and sells kits.
Cheers,
Tore
Use grease sparingly, especially on the worm gear, or it will move to slow. Do not use petroleum based grease, it will damage the plastic. If the large output gear (with the rotating contacts) is separated from the axle, it is very important to reassemble in the correct angle.
The most common cause for servo failure is a worn-out motor and resulting short-circuit. This causes excessive current and damages the end-of-travel switch tracks, and sometimes the CCU output drivers too.
The only remedy for this is to replace motor, PCB and output gear with sliding contacts. PARTisan Autoteile in Germany have a refurbish service and sells kits.
Cheers,
Tore
#4
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mr. Bock,
Be patient. PP00830, AKA Andy will provide all information, and more, relating to servo motors. You will receive detailed instructions on rebuilding servos, Andy's "toothpick" tip for separating the case, the name and email address of the company that sells replacement parts, and also instructions regarding the length of time to rebuild your servo. Andy will also describe an alternate use for your kitchen table. Look for the yellow submarine. We should rename PP00830 "SERVOMASTER." This information will all come together as soon as Andy responds.
Be patient. You won't be disappointed...
Be patient. PP00830, AKA Andy will provide all information, and more, relating to servo motors. You will receive detailed instructions on rebuilding servos, Andy's "toothpick" tip for separating the case, the name and email address of the company that sells replacement parts, and also instructions regarding the length of time to rebuild your servo. Andy will also describe an alternate use for your kitchen table. Look for the yellow submarine. We should rename PP00830 "SERVOMASTER." This information will all come together as soon as Andy responds.
Be patient. You won't be disappointed...
Hi Harry, Thanks for the reference.
Mr Bock, Here are my thoughts on the subject:
https://993servicerepair.blogspot.co...ning-hvac.html
Andy
The following users liked this post:
mr_bock (09-25-2020)
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I just checked my posting and see these replies from around the world!!! ToreB, that is a great pix of the gear stack! I booked marked Servomaster AKA Andy AKA PP00830 web page for reference. You guys are awesome and Rennlist is The Best for information that helps keep these fantastic automobiles On The Road!!!!!!!
I will report back as to how all this goes and hopefully I can rid all the A/C demons...
THANKS!!!!!!!!
I will report back as to how all this goes and hopefully I can rid all the A/C demons...
THANKS!!!!!!!!
#6
Technical Guru
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Mr. Bock,
Be patient. PP00830, AKA Andy will provide all information, and more, relating to servo motors. You will receive detailed instructions on rebuilding servos, Andy's "toothpick" tip for separating the case, the name and email address of the company that sells replacement parts, and also instructions regarding the length of time to rebuild your servo. Andy will also describe an alternate use for your kitchen table. Look for the yellow submarine. We should rename PP00830 "SERVOMASTER." This information will all come together as soon as Andy responds.
Be patient. You won't be disappointed...
Be patient. PP00830, AKA Andy will provide all information, and more, relating to servo motors. You will receive detailed instructions on rebuilding servos, Andy's "toothpick" tip for separating the case, the name and email address of the company that sells replacement parts, and also instructions regarding the length of time to rebuild your servo. Andy will also describe an alternate use for your kitchen table. Look for the yellow submarine. We should rename PP00830 "SERVOMASTER." This information will all come together as soon as Andy responds.
Be patient. You won't be disappointed...
Last edited by JasonAndreas; 09-24-2020 at 02:13 PM.
The following users liked this post:
ToreB (09-24-2020)
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The gearbox pix is worth a thousand words... I was able to reassemble my servo and tested it in the car (power only) and it worked as it should. Next I had the shaft coupling engaged with the flapper shaft and that is good.
Great info given.
I will go ahead and open the other servos and clean the PCB traces and whiskers, etc..
I want to insure that all of the internal flaps, controls, etc are working properly before I see about having the A/C system evacuated and recharged.
Hopefully I get nice amount of cold air from the vent(s).
Great info given.
I will go ahead and open the other servos and clean the PCB traces and whiskers, etc..
I want to insure that all of the internal flaps, controls, etc are working properly before I see about having the A/C system evacuated and recharged.
Hopefully I get nice amount of cold air from the vent(s).
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I may have found the problem... I had the CCU partially pulled out of the dash and using a led light to see into the flap valve. When I turned on and off the recirculate button, I could see the flap valve move in a irregular/erratic manner. I pulled the glove box, the radio, ccu farther out and there I saw the mechanical lever arm that was just dangling. Seems that the pivot rod is missing that connects the arm to the flap. I don't know if I missed this when I did the evaporator replacement or it was lost many years ago. I will have to come up with a replacement on my own as this does not show up in the Porsche PET parts list.
Does anyone have suggestions for a replacement? I will investigate this as to rod diameter, length and some sort of retaining clip.
This is a big step in the fix!!! I will still clean the servos and make sure there are no other issues.
To be continued...
Does anyone have suggestions for a replacement? I will investigate this as to rod diameter, length and some sort of retaining clip.
This is a big step in the fix!!! I will still clean the servos and make sure there are no other issues.
To be continued...
#9
Rennlist Member
I may have found the problem... I had the CCU partially pulled out of the dash and using a led light to see into the flap valve. When I turned on and off the recirculate button, I could see the flap valve move in a irregular/erratic manner. I pulled the glove box, the radio, ccu farther out and there I saw the mechanical lever arm that was just dangling. Seems that the pivot rod is missing that connects the arm to the flap. I don't know if I missed this when I did the evaporator replacement or it was lost many years ago. I will have to come up with a replacement on my own as this does not show up in the Porsche PET parts list.
Does anyone have suggestions for a replacement? I will investigate this as to rod diameter, length and some sort of retaining clip.
This is a big step in the fix!!! I will still clean the servos and make sure there are no other issues.
To be continued...
Does anyone have suggestions for a replacement? I will investigate this as to rod diameter, length and some sort of retaining clip.
This is a big step in the fix!!! I will still clean the servos and make sure there are no other issues.
To be continued...
I will be surprised if another member doesn't provide a solution to solve the pivot rod that you have described. By the way, you did a great job troubleshooting. Stay tuned..........
The following users liked this post:
mr_bock (09-26-2020)
#10
Rennlist Member
Searching is your best friend on this forum:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...connected.html
T
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...connected.html
T
The following users liked this post:
mr_bock (09-26-2020)
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
ToreB, You are the Man! The pix in the link is exactly what I needed. I am missing the snap button that holds/pivots the arm to the flap door. Now I know what I need to get. Attaching them together in such a limited access area will be 'fun' as I have fat fingers...
Thanks!!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!
#12
Rennlist Member
Yes, it can be fiddly to insert the nylon tie, I've done this 3-4 times. If you remove both the CCU and the radio you get better access and can use both hands. It also helps to activate the resirc function on the CCU so the actuator arm is positioned in the outward state.
Cheers,
Tore
Cheers,
Tore
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Tore,
Thanks for the tip on positioning the arm.
I already had the radio and ccu out last night. Woke up at 5 am this morning and could not get back to sleep so off to the garage I went. In my bag of car bits and pieces, I found some plastic interior mounting clips that use a push pin to expand the clip fingers. Happens to be the right diameter. While test fitting this pin in the upper arm hole that attaches to the door, I find that the lower arm is not attached to the lower door!!!! The little pin and a couple of fiber washers were still attached to the arm. I was able to push the pin off the arm and now see exactly what Porsche used. I will see about getting some push on retainer washers that might be stronger.
The lower arm has even less space to work in... I may have to get my wife with her much smaller hands in there!
With both arms not attached, it is no wonder that I am not getting the cold breeze!!!!
To be continued...
Thanks for the tip on positioning the arm.
I already had the radio and ccu out last night. Woke up at 5 am this morning and could not get back to sleep so off to the garage I went. In my bag of car bits and pieces, I found some plastic interior mounting clips that use a push pin to expand the clip fingers. Happens to be the right diameter. While test fitting this pin in the upper arm hole that attaches to the door, I find that the lower arm is not attached to the lower door!!!! The little pin and a couple of fiber washers were still attached to the arm. I was able to push the pin off the arm and now see exactly what Porsche used. I will see about getting some push on retainer washers that might be stronger.
The lower arm has even less space to work in... I may have to get my wife with her much smaller hands in there!
With both arms not attached, it is no wonder that I am not getting the cold breeze!!!!
To be continued...
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
This morning I went looking for plastic pivot pins at Lowe's and at NAPA Automotive. NAPA had a huge assortment of clips and fasteners. I bought several different ones hoping something will work. Here is a pix of what I ended up using. I had both the CCU and radio out of the dash. Using long nose pliers, I was able to get the clip through the holes with a washer in place. Pushing the push pin expands the clip shaft. Now with the engine running, both air flaps that go to the evaporator open and close very smartly as they should.
Tomorrow I will recharge/top off the Freon and test the A/C for hopefully nice cold air. I have a digital multimeter with temperature thermal couple to check center vent readings.
Success, time for a drink!!!!
Tomorrow I will recharge/top off the Freon and test the A/C for hopefully nice cold air. I have a digital multimeter with temperature thermal couple to check center vent readings.
Success, time for a drink!!!!