How did you survive the break-in period??
08-28-2024, 01:03 PM
#106
Three Wheelin'
Looking for a little support and maybe some clever ideas on how you managed the break-in period. Not here to debate whether or not it's necessary (I'm in the camp it's the right thing to do), but rather, how did you keep the RPMs down for so long? At this rate, it's going to take me a year to get her over 1800mi. The car is begging me to go over 4000rpm every single time I drive her.
I work from home and just generally do not drive a ton. Sitting at 219mi on the odometer today. Also, being from Chicago, the Winter will afford me far fewer opportunities to drive her.
Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated! If nothing else, this thread can hopefully help myself and others cope with the champagne problems of owning a Porsche.
I work from home and just generally do not drive a ton. Sitting at 219mi on the odometer today. Also, being from Chicago, the Winter will afford me far fewer opportunities to drive her.
Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated! If nothing else, this thread can hopefully help myself and others cope with the champagne problems of owning a Porsche.
So, looking at OP's original ask again, it seems only a few actually gave some pointers. The rest just got into the 'I know better than you' contest.
The following 2 users liked this post by Ikone:
Icegrill (08-28-2024),
solidgranite (08-28-2024)
08-28-2024, 04:21 PM
#107
I’ve been taking easy up to 1000 miles with a few 5-6k pulls. Seems pretty appropriate. Isn’t the manual 1800KM? Can’t find the passage right now.
08-28-2024, 09:09 PM
#108
I am not going to lie, but the 1,875 miles is a rather difficult struggle and even after that is accomplished it is highly suggested that you gradually work your way up to redline. 🤦♂️
I always felt that the 1200 miles via BMW wasn’t that bad, but those nearly 1900 miles are a nightmare.
I always felt that the 1200 miles via BMW wasn’t that bad, but those nearly 1900 miles are a nightmare.
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Icegrill (08-29-2024)
08-29-2024, 08:37 AM
#110
Yep….negative crankcase pressure (aka vacuum) seats piston rings. Race engine builders attach a separate vacuum pump run by belt piped to crankcase to do it quickly while tuning the race engine on a dyno. Research it. But it is your car. Drive it however you want.
Last edited by Fullyield; 08-29-2024 at 08:40 AM.
08-29-2024, 09:41 AM
#111
Are the new Porsches used by the various Porsche Experience locations gingerly "broken-in" per the owners manual for US cars(varies by country) for this critical 1850 miles before being used as track beaters and ultimately sold off to the public? Are dealer service loaners and demonstrators treated to this same low rpm honeymoon period?
https://www.porschedriving.com/
https://www.porschedriving.com/
08-29-2024, 10:33 AM
#112
Are the new Porsches used by the various Porsche Experience locations gingerly "broken-in" per the owners manual for US cars(varies by country) for this critical 1850 miles before being used as track beaters and ultimately sold off to the public? Are dealer service loaners and demonstrators treated to this same low rpm honeymoon period?
https://www.porschedriving.com/
https://www.porschedriving.com/
As for dealer demos and service loaners, they're similar to any rental cars and should be treated as such by a potential buyer.
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Fullyield (08-29-2024)
08-29-2024, 10:57 AM
#113
Race Director
This is generally not an issue on street engines.
The combination of cylinder pressure and max vacuum while engine braking is what will seal the rings during break in. And that can happen very quickly.
08-29-2024, 11:06 AM
#114
Race Director
https://www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/m...cedure-web.pdf
some key points:
Once all checks are performed and the engine has no issues detected, the engine should be ran under a load to properly seat the rings. Loading the engine increases the cylinder pressure and forces the rings into the bore to help the seating process.
Using part throttle, apply varying loads and rpm. Avoid using heavy throttle / acceleration and high rpm.
Street Vehicle: This should be accomplished over a short 20-30 min drive.
Next, start at 25% of the max rpm with light throttle and accelerate at wide open throttle to 75% of max rpm. Then engine brake with the throttle closed, back to 25% max rpm. Repeat this 5-6 times.
If equipped, it is recommended to remove the vacuum pump belt or hose connection to the engine. Increased crankcase vacuum reduces the oil in suspension inside the crankcase and reduces “splash” lubrication
Double check to ensure no issues have arisen and change oil and filter again.
Run as engine build was intended
Last edited by Quadcammer; 08-29-2024 at 11:09 AM.
08-29-2024, 11:51 AM
#115
Race Director
Because the break in procedure is not designed to “wear in” the piston rings unlike rod bearings. Break in is to SEAT or push the rings out against the cylinder walls for maximum compression (which is maximum power) and no oil consumption. There is little if any wear involved this early in the life if the ring. .
So break in "wears in" the rod bearings? uhh...what? They are covered in assembly lube for the first start up and have an oil film shortly thereafter. There is no wearing in of bearings on modern engines nor is there any "setting of the clearance." Bearing clearance is set at assembly and remains constant until they wear from cold starts, oil starvation, FOD, etc
Wear of the ring is EXACTLY what happens during break in. The rough crosshatch pattern (or modern surface finishes) are honed to a rough finish precisely to wear the rings to cylinder wall to maximize ring seal.
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loxxrider (08-29-2024)
08-29-2024, 11:56 AM
#116
not quite. Cylinder pressure is what pushes the ring against the cylinder wall. Race engines, particularly drag race cars that run vacuum pumps, have very wide ring gaps which result in blow-by, which creates ring flutter and actually causes the ring to actually tilt on its edge.
This is generally not an issue on street engines.
The combination of cylinder pressure and max vacuum while engine braking is what will seal the rings during break in. And that can happen very quickly.
This is generally not an issue on street engines.
The combination of cylinder pressure and max vacuum while engine braking is what will seal the rings during break in. And that can happen very quickly.
08-29-2024, 11:57 AM
#117
Rennlist Member
The manual says to "avoid" exceeding 4000 RPM during break-in, it doesn't say that you "shall not" exceed 4000 RPM. Given how different continents have different break-in periods (or so I've read on here), I think it's safe to assume that nothing magical happens at 1875 miles (3000KM) that suddenly makes it ok to redline. Use your judgment and don't drive it like you stole it right out of the gate,
08-29-2024, 11:59 AM
#118
The more I read the more wrong you are.
So break in "wears in" the rod bearings? uhh...what? They are covered in assembly lube for the first start up and have an oil film shortly thereafter. There is no wearing in of bearings on modern engines nor is there any "setting of the clearance." Bearing clearance is set at assembly and remains constant until they wear from cold starts, oil starvation, FOD, etc
Wear of the ring is EXACTLY what happens during break in. The rough crosshatch pattern (or modern surface finishes) are honed to a rough finish precisely to wear the rings to cylinder wall to maximize ring seal.
So break in "wears in" the rod bearings? uhh...what? They are covered in assembly lube for the first start up and have an oil film shortly thereafter. There is no wearing in of bearings on modern engines nor is there any "setting of the clearance." Bearing clearance is set at assembly and remains constant until they wear from cold starts, oil starvation, FOD, etc
Wear of the ring is EXACTLY what happens during break in. The rough crosshatch pattern (or modern surface finishes) are honed to a rough finish precisely to wear the rings to cylinder wall to maximize ring seal.
Last edited by Fullyield; 08-29-2024 at 12:26 PM.
08-29-2024, 12:02 PM
#119
Race Director
Agree. We are saying the same thing and also what Mahl is saying......just using different words. Pressure up and negative pressure down. As Mahl indicates , the race engine builders use a measuring system so they know exactly when it happens.....which we do not have on the street. The formula is the same. varying rpm up and down to seat rings. Avoid a constant rpm until rings seated. What everyone here is arguing about is how many rpm and how many miles but I think everyone agrees with you on the basic process.
As to the distance...the mahle document is clear that after 30 minutes of regular driving and 6 specific pulls, the rings are seated.
08-29-2024, 12:19 PM
#120
wow, I haven't seen backpedaling that hard in a while. You specifically said that vacuum seats the rings....which it most certainly does not.
As to the distance...the mahle document is clear that after 30 minutes of regular driving and 6 specific pulls, the rings are seated.
As to the distance...the mahle document is clear that after 30 minutes of regular driving and 6 specific pulls, the rings are seated.
I realize you want to argue but the science is the science.
Last edited by Fullyield; 08-29-2024 at 12:26 PM.