AlterZgo

I think it's safe to say that much of the discussions and theories on what's proper break in and potential adverse effects of improper break in is just speculation as no one has yet to publish any objective studies comparing cars that are broken in properly and cars that are broken in hard and compared the power and longevity of each group of cars over 5+ years and 10K, 50K, 100K+ miles. Or did the same comparisons then had the engines torn down and measured for excessive engine wear, abnormal tolerances, etc.

I don't think even the people who actually designed these motors know whether a car that is redlined starting at 500 miles is worse off than a car that is redlined begining after 1000 miles or 1800 miles because none of them have conducted any objective comparison tests themselves. If these tests exists, I would appreciate if someone can share the results.

breny4104

The engineers probably had the same back and forth we are having here and someone finally stood up and said, "fkcu it, let's make it 3000km." And they were so tired that they all just gave in and said "sure." I work in civil engineering and that's how we wind up deciding stuff most of the time.

Newbie T

Don't disagree with your perspective. However, I suspect some of us, myself included, are more risk adverse, that is, we will think "what if"... What if I didn't do the break-in properly which might lead to an issue 5 or 10 years later? Of course, some of us will sale or upgrade later on, but I would like to keep mine for a long time and drive it like one of those classic P cars one day (also not rich enough to keep changing cars every few years).

Each to their own, but there isn't any real downside in doing the break-in properly, to your point about the duration and enjoyment, for me, i would say waiting for the allocation/shipment/delivery/PPF jail which took all up 11 months of waiting for me, was way more painful than having the car and doing break-in properly for say 11 months.

jstap808

Sure that bridge should withstand a tanker ramming into it, f it I’m sick of doing maths anyway, let’s go get some beer boys

Butzi

Some of you should never buy used.
You will not sleep well not knowing if the break-in protocols were followed or not...

Beer sounds like a good idea.

Michael T

The best engine break-in video I have seen. Sixteen minutes long. Mentioned above.

r4mi5awi

I can only speak for CDN market. Aside from Porsche recommended mileage at 3000 km. Both Porsche genius at my local dealership on delivery date and my SA recommended first 1500 km to keep at <4000 RPM. Both times they told me that without asking.

Personally I did a hybrid of 1500 km and increased RPMs by 500 every 250 km, kinda like the AP suggested method. After about 2250 km, I let her rip. No ragrets! 😛

CurryPuff

Absolutely timeless!!

Fullyield

I agree AlterZgo. And since they do not know they use a conservative estimate in line with other mechanical systems (transaxle, transmission, chassis) as Mike 818 has previously noted. And even if such a study did exist, how do you prove causation?????. Piston ring seating = compression = power. So if your car runs 0 - 60 mph in less than 4 seconds you most likely do not have a piston ring issue because you are making expected power.. Move on. But if your car lacks power (0 to 60mph times substantially greater than spec) or you are consuming oil through the cylinder(s), you should investigate further. What do you use as a first step????...........a vacuum gauge which measures negative cylinder pressure created by sealed piston rings among other things. If piston rings are not sealed , the vacuum spec is substantially below standard. This is a fairly easy test but is not definitive as to causation, unfortunately.. Though not definitive, it will point you in the right direction and allows you to rule out other potential causes. See attached Holley YouTube video discussing piston rings at the end.. If you still suspect a piston ring issue after using the vacuum gauge to eliminate possible causes, the next step is a compression test which is a admittedly a major PITA unless you are changing your spark plugs anyway. That is the reason compression tests should be a part of every PPI...(as well as a borescope following a failed compression test).. If you DIY your spark plug changes, consider doing a DIY compression test (if you suspect a problem) as it is little extra work at that time. Note: you should not start the engine before immediately changing your oil AFTER a compression test. If a compression test shows low compression on any particular cylinder, then a borescope of that cylinder is your next step as the issue may be caused by bore scoring and not piston rings (especially in the 986/996 and 987/997). .

Fullyield

+1 Titanic Engineer - Our ship can not be sunk!
Exxon Valdez Captain - An iceberg cannot puncture my hull.
British Petroleum Deep Water Horizon Manager - We don't need a blow out preventer!
Boeing software engineer - Our software alone can never make our 737 Max stall and crash!
VW and Porsche - We would never cheat on our emissions tests!

J Irwan

I've watched this before. A lot of good points

Hunky

Yeah agree 100% and a big news flash for the break-in Karens, chances that the used 911 you bought or are considering was "broken-in" strictly by the absurd 1,875 mile suggestion is is extremely low verging on zero.

RatherJaded

Who buys used? 🤣




Kidding!

loxxrider

I'm not sticking up for BP here, but that is a wildly inaccurate representation of what happened. They definitely had a BOP. Lots of errors in judgement and miscalculations led to a loss of well control far before the BOP needed to be involved at all. In the end, unfortunately when the BOP did have to be used (5 other things failed before it did), it was incapable of doing it's job due to bad design and other extenuating factors. You can read about it here if you're interested.
http://chrome-extension://efaidnbmnn...sis1.pdf?15262

It's not really relevant to break-in, except that misinformation is rampant in both cases.

jstap808

Is it even possible to stay below 4K rpm when accelerating onto a highway or trying to get past traffic in certain lanes? 4k bit the dust almost ASAP, this thing wants to live at 5,6k