recarv

This 100% - I tell everyone this as well. I agree with literally every word and I can't understand the counter argument except the one which goes like this: "I don't have the money to replace the engine if it dies, and I don't plan on keeping it past warranty." This sounds like a lease vehicle ownership and I'd agree that you not risk beyond your wallet. Absent this, there is absolutely no benefit to waiting till warranty expiration to mod it for every reason above.

Also agree -- very important. Drive the car 5k miles, get its oil changed, change the spark plugs, give it a chance for factory issues that may have been there from the start to crop up and get those fixed with the warranty. If it didn't break in this period, you've got about as much assurance as anything in car ownership. Now, when you look for a tune, you'll likely find several options. First -- stay away from the one promising demonstrably higher power than the rest. Chances are that good tuners see things like knock and heat issues and it all happens pretty predictably. Good tuners know to back off these limits which means going a little slower. Bad tuners claim their tune is faster by not backing off.

Change your oil more frequently. 5k miles, not 10k miles. When you do, send some to blackstone labs for oil analysis. They'll give you results of deposits in the oil which can indicate all kinds of wear and will compare your results to car and national averages. Its the best way to spot something and give you reassurance that everything is running well. It doesn't cost much.

One last thing -- reliable tuning gets unreliable when you start upgrading parts and altering the system. The further you move from a stock setup the more untested variables enter the system. This can be increased turbo lag from bigger turbos not breathing well through stock intakes or restrictive exhaust manifolds etc. Or a torque curve that can throw the car out of balance on a curve, or cook the brake rotors from higher entry speeds. The good thing about Porsches is that they're engineered for hard use, so they're made with that in mind. But there are limits here and if you are a total hooner that does launch control at every stop light, that's probably beyond the longevity expectations they even planned for. Luckily most people will never get here, even tuned, but it goes for saying.

Harbortime

What is the top speed of a 992 C4S with a stage 1 ME 93 octane tune? Has there been testing at top speed with this tune on the Autobahn? It must push the engine hard but not for long on a short run...

SBAD

Unless you are in Germany, who cares?

RudyP

You could calculate the theoretical max increase based on stock top speed, % increase in power at rpm where current max speed is hit from the torque/hp curves provided by M engineering and apply the formula that drag is proportional to velocity squared. This will only give you a max theoretical because it won't account for extra friction in other parts of the drivetrain, plus the fact that you'll hit the new top speed at a different rpm (perhaps even in a different gear) but you could swag the max and then reduce the increase by ~30% or so and I bet you'd be close.

Flat6Motorsports

^ I'm not a top speed guy but can confirm a report from a client who hit 200MPH on a particular stretch of road that will go unnamed!

Harbortime

Typical....

M Engineering

We have taken them well above the 200mph mark on the dyno. On the street? Not a chance. We welcome any pro driver to give it a go if they want to

-Charles@M

Harbortime

----DELETED----

32bitsofGil

Roughly 193MPH on the base car

RRich

This is what 323 km/h (200.7 mph) indicated looks like in a stock C2S. Max speed run begins at 4:23.

Harbortime

Thank you for posting this video. You need to look at the GPS not the cars speedo. The speedometer is way off. The top speed of that car was 301kmh or 187mph.