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Old 01-31-2023, 05:19 PM
  #4771  
jdendle
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I'm on the waiting list for a 911 GTS, it looks like it will arrive sometime in mid/late 2024. I've been offered an allocation for a T for May of this year. Trending towards buying the T and staying on the list for the GTS as an option. The dilemma, will the T feel like a disappointment vs the GTS, is the idea of buying the T and then potentially switching it out for a GTS later nuts? I'd spec the T properly (largely) with manual, add rear seats, rear axel steer, bit of race-tex. I'd use the either car as a semi-daily driver and for the occasional track day. First 911, so would appreciate your advice.
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Old 01-31-2023, 05:38 PM
  #4772  
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Originally Posted by Ikone
That's basically the same as in the 911T manual.

sadly, I am still awaiting my 911T, but I will make sure to read the owners handbook
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Old 01-31-2023, 05:56 PM
  #4773  
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Originally Posted by Pivot
sadly, I am still awaiting my 911T, but I will make sure to read the owners handbook
Sorry, I meant the 991.2T. But I think it's the same for 992. If you have access to a 992 owners manual, it should be covered there under 'breaking in' or 'driving in'.
My Audi RS3 had it in the owners manual as well. I stopped reading comments and listening to folks and just did what it said in the manual. Tried not to overthink it.
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Old 01-31-2023, 05:57 PM
  #4774  
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Originally Posted by jdendle
I'm on the waiting list for a 911 GTS, it looks like it will arrive sometime in mid/late 2024. I've been offered an allocation for a T for May of this year. Trending towards buying the T and staying on the list for the GTS as an option. The dilemma, will the T feel like a disappointment vs the GTS, is the idea of buying the T and then potentially switching it out for a GTS later nuts? I'd spec the T properly (largely) with manual, add rear seats, rear axel steer, bit of race-tex. I'd use the either car as a semi-daily driver and for the occasional track day. First 911, so would appreciate your advice.
You should absolutely jump on the T, and if you feel you dont have enough power, convert to the GTS when it comes in. As someone who has driven all variants of the 911, I can promise that the T will give you PLENTY of enjoyment. I had a 992 C2 for 2 years and used it for track days and weekend driving... even that car without the majority of the T specific performance parts was a FANTASTIC car for both track and fun road driving...
The 992 generation is insane at all levels. A base Carrera with Sport Chrono puts down 3.5 second 0-60 times and will happily do 181 MPH... those are serious numbers, supercar numbers... I promise all versions of the 992 are wonderful.
But like you said, if you feel like its not enough power, stay on the GTS list and trade it in... the T will hold its value well for sure.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:07 PM
  #4775  
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Originally Posted by 6sigma
I'll follow the manufacturer's recommendation on break-in. If no guidance is provided I follow the guidelines posted above.

I saw on the recent Savagegeese video on C8 Z06 production where the engineers spoke to engine break-in. Each Z06 engine is run on a dyno, but not to full redline and follows a protocol. They said the bearings have a sacrificial layer that is part of new engine break-in. The engine oil is swapped after the dyno run to remove those initial lubricants. GM also reduces redline on C8 and Blackwing cars during the break-in period. I trust the engineers had reason enough to do this, even if to prevent an over exuberant new owner from becoming YouTube famous with a redline burnout leaving the dealership (and the subsequent warranty claim).
I follow these instructions and they’ve never failed me. Straight from andreas preuninger:

”I can only tell you how I personally do it, or how we do it at Weissach – for the first 500 kilometres or 300 miles, we don’t drive that car ever over 5000 rpm, never. From then on, every 200 kilometres, we up the rpms by 500, so we end up at 1300, 1400 kilometres at the threshold before we can really go full throttle, at 800 or 900 miles.”
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:07 PM
  #4776  
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Originally Posted by toph4242
But like you said, if you feel like its not enough power, stay on the GTS list and trade it in... the T will hold its value well for sure.
Or if you are willing to take on some slight warranty risk, swap in some GTS turbos and throw a tune on your T.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:11 PM
  #4777  
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2/23 lock date changed to 2/16 today.

Last edited by jkampingafw; 01-31-2023 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:18 PM
  #4778  
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Originally Posted by Ikone
Sorry, I meant the 991.2T. But I think it's the same for 992. If you have access to a 992 owners manual, it should be covered there under 'breaking in' or 'driving in'.
My Audi RS3 had it in the owners manual as well. I stopped reading comments and listening to folks and just did what it said in the manual. Tried not to overthink it.

no issue… I downloaded the electronic version with the Good to Know app… now trying to locate it.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:25 PM
  #4779  
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Originally Posted by renn.tp
I follow these instructions and they’ve never failed me. Straight from andreas preuninger:

”I can only tell you how I personally do it, or how we do it at Weissach – for the first 500 kilometres or 300 miles, we don’t drive that car ever over 5000 rpm, never. From then on, every 200 kilometres, we up the rpms by 500, so we end up at 1300, 1400 kilometres at the threshold before we can really go full throttle, at 800 or 900 miles.”
Exactly. Dealer and manufacturer instructions are oversimplified and lend themselves to poor execution by the owner. Understanding the "whys" and how to best execute what is universally suggested optimizes the break in period. "Keeping it under X rpm/mph for the first X miles" is just not good enough.
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Old 01-31-2023, 06:54 PM
  #4780  
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Originally Posted by avid
Exactly. Dealer and manufacturer instructions are oversimplified and lend themselves to poor execution by the owner. Understanding the "whys" and how to best execute what is universally suggested optimizes the break in period. "Keeping it under X rpm/mph for the first X miles" is just not good enough.
Yeah, it's a bit more detailed in the manual than that.
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:46 PM
  #4781  
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Car will be build in 2 weeks from today. Unbelievable.
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:48 PM
  #4782  
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That's cool @Macboy when is your delivery date? Sounds like you're going to be one of the first if not the first to get his new T. Bully for you man.
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Old 01-31-2023, 07:53 PM
  #4783  
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The break-in procedure is as hotly debated a topic as "best oil" to use. There was a very good thread on it in the 718 4.0 forum that shed light on what Andreas Preuninger recommends. I'll put the info here for everyone. The full thread is here.

Originally Posted by lovetoturn
This comes up so often and there a million opinions about it. The 2,000 miles of under 4,000 rpms is ridiculous and likely written by an attorney. Drive it like you stole it from day one works for some, but I don't think the rings have a chance to seal properly for the long haul in that situation. I believe the answer is somewhere in the middle with a steadily increasing redline over time as listed below. This is the schedule from the man himself Andreas Preuninger otherwise know to us as "AP". If it is good enough for the head of Porsche GT Cars, then it will work for me. This assumes you always properly warm the car up before screaming to whatever redline is appropriate. This can be printed and laminated with packing tape and then put in the center console or glove box for reference as you break in your car. You could also just take a picture of it to have on your phone for future reference. Sorry to those who have already seen post this before.



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Old 01-31-2023, 07:54 PM
  #4784  
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I think Macboy's and my car will be built the same week. He is lucky his car doesn't have to go on a boat across the ocean though
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Old 01-31-2023, 08:01 PM
  #4785  
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Originally Posted by Humbucker427
How are y'all looking up your lock dates? I have just been finding out when I contact my SA. Is there a way to monitor progression online?
Log into MyPorsche on a laptop or desktop (not phone) and you can see your freeze date and build date.
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