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I used a small flat eyeglass screw driver to get between the seam on the front side and worked my way around slowly popping it out of the tabs from left to right, and then swinging the cover down to uncover the torx screw After unscrewing the torx screw i slid a plastic card along the front of the light housing to pop out the 2 tabs as indicated in the earlier post. Then i removed the power connector from the light panel I think followed the earlier instructions and popped the blue cable on the right out of the plastic holder in the roof I then slid in the blendmount mirrortap wire (black goes into the clear middle wire, and red goes into the white wire) then on the plastic along the windshield i slid in a pry tool and pried it loose (eventually i slid it forward towards the glass to remove the covering). I then ran the mirrortap wire through the backside and re-mounted the plastic cover sliding it in front to back, back into the tabs Final look from the driver side Final look from passenger side
Overall process was straightforward though a bit scary at first pulling the front mount forward and getting resistance, I was afraid i would pull too hard and break a tab - the key is to slide it forward rather than pull down too much.
Besides that, the longest time spent is probably just tinkering with the exact angles of the mount itself.
Originally Posted by stevensivak
that's a lot of stuff inside a mirror!!!!
I was inspired by the guys that took the time to take pictures and provide step-by-step instructions. To ALL that contributed, Thank You!
Laughingly, my install took me an hour and a half, but I got it completely functional. It may not help that I am to 285lbs, and felt like I was working in a “straigh jacket,” while trying to get my fat fingers to bend in ways that they haven’t since I was dating a high school cheerleader…
….but the one thing that I will say, is that you have to man up when you’re pushing the spades into the left side of the blue plug to get power. The center clear is ground, and the white is power.
Excellent job on those that took the lead before us.
And, yes it’s nerve-racking as hell but I just did it on the 2021 992 and it went perfect, car is tougher than you think!
As the MY22 cars are supposed to come pre-wired for dash cams do we think this will obviate the need to take things apart as set out in this post so we can just plug straight in?
As the MY22 cars are supposed to come pre-wired for dash cams do we think this will obviate the need to take things apart as set out in this post so we can just plug straight in?
Great question, hope we can get someone to test doon!
As the MY22 cars are supposed to come pre-wired for dash cams do we think this will obviate the need to take things apart as set out in this post so we can just plug straight in?
I’d anticipate that you’d still have to take things apart, but there should be something dedicated to plug into now.
As the MY22 cars are supposed to come pre-wired for dash cams do we think this will obviate the need to take things apart as set out in this post so we can just plug straight in?
The info I saw said that this is an option tentatively scheduled for December allocations.
As the MY22 cars are supposed to come pre-wired for dash cams do we think this will obviate the need to take things apart as set out in this post so we can just plug straight in?
It presumably will not be necessary to take things apart if you get the manufacturer's dash cam product. Today's dash cams have varying types of power connectors, so if you decide to get a different brand of dash cam (e.g., Blackvue or Garmin) then you may have to find a third-party adapter or still take things apart.
The mirror tap is switched power so only on when car is on. You would need two wire taps unless using an Escort M2 dash cam, with can pass power to a radar detector with only one tap. If you want a dash cam with always on power probably should look at an external battery pack, otherwise I would be nervous about running the car battery down.
The mirror tap is switched power so only on when car is on. You would need two wire taps unless using an Escort M2 dash cam, with can pass power to a radar detector with only one tap. If you want a dash cam with always on power probably should look at an external battery pack, otherwise I would be nervous about running the car battery down.
not looking for always on. not in my own garage. or out in front of my office window. but certainly the few times it will be parked, say at a restaurant for dinner, etc. a couple hours here or there.
So you will need to get power from the fuse box, there is no un-switched power in the mirror. Then just remember to shut off the dash cam when not needed.
I have my redline 360c coming and was curious, I'm planning on doing the mirror tap, which is around $30 for the wire. A blendmount for a 992 is another $150 v using the redline mount, which from what I have seen is a pretty decent looking windshield suction mount and releases quite easily AND allows you to mount it higher and a blend mount which puts it below the mirror.
Any thoughts on the redline (or anyone using a R7 or V1) being windshield v using a blendmount. I can run the mirror tap either way.
09-11-2021, 08:05 PM
