DIY Oil Change on 992 GT3
#256
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Random question: Do any fellow Canadians know where to buy the proper C40 oil from?
Either a physical store or a trusted online retailer are fine with me. I spent last Saturday going to 4 different local shops and none of them stocked it. My only option right now is the dealership at $16/Litre![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Either a physical store or a trusted online retailer are fine with me. I spent last Saturday going to 4 different local shops and none of them stocked it. My only option right now is the dealership at $16/Litre
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Last edited by GrantG; 09-14-2022 at 03:33 PM.
#257
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Here are some updated oil fill (after oil drain) instructions attached - now it says it could require up to 7 Liters (only said 4.1 Liters previously), depending on how long and at what temperature you drain. I let the dealer do my one free change and just over 4 Liters drained and were required at fill.
I think it may be a bad idea to let the oil drain overnight, unless you measure the oil drained and are prepared to add more than the usual 4.1 Liters (depending on what the drained oil measures, including draining/measuring the filter oil).
FYI - my dealer also told me that you should always drain when hot, as some have tried to remove tank drain when cold and the brass fitting came detached from the oil tank (requires an engine-out service to repair, if this happens).
I think it may be a bad idea to let the oil drain overnight, unless you measure the oil drained and are prepared to add more than the usual 4.1 Liters (depending on what the drained oil measures, including draining/measuring the filter oil).
FYI - my dealer also told me that you should always drain when hot, as some have tried to remove tank drain when cold and the brass fitting came detached from the oil tank (requires an engine-out service to repair, if this happens).
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my first oil change at the dealership was done at about 2500 miles and after four track days. Drained initially with the oil hot and over most of the day and measured 7.1 quarts. Refilled with that amount took it to the 3/4 fill line. They have had two cars need to have the engine dropped and the oil tank replaced after detaching the brass tank ring. Its an ugly sight but apparently there is a fix, I think with an alloy tank instead of carbon fiber
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#259
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my first oil change at the dealership was done at about 2500 miles and after four track days. Drained initially with the oil hot and over most of the day and measured 7.1 quarts. Refilled with that amount took it to the 3/4 fill line. They have had two cars need to have the engine dropped and the oil tank replaced after detaching the brass tank ring. Its an ugly sight but apparently there is a fix, I think with an alloy tank instead of carbon fiber
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my first oil change at the dealership was done at about 2500 miles and after four track days. Drained initially with the oil hot and over most of the day and measured 7.1 quarts. Refilled with that amount took it to the 3/4 fill line. They have had two cars need to have the engine dropped and the oil tank replaced after detaching the brass tank ring. Its an ugly sight but apparently there is a fix, I think with an alloy tank instead of carbon fiber
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Would be nice if they found a way to recall/repair that area from the bottom (no engine drop)
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It would be a warranty repair (flatbed to dealer). Maybe if it had never happened before, it would be an argument (but my dealer said known issue among the dealership folks).
Last edited by GrantG; 09-16-2022 at 12:01 PM.
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#265
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Interesting that I haven’t seen anybody on this board that’s doing their own oil change actually have the fitting fail?carl
Last edited by 4carl; 09-16-2022 at 12:39 PM.
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I'm afraid to change my own oil now.
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I've had mine changed several times now (last time by dealer) without issue. I've always done it hot and supposedly that is necessary. Not sure if it solves the issue or just delays any issue.
I'm not sure if the brass fitting is coming loose when torquing or whether it's coming loose while trying to remove the plug (that rubber o-ring makes a pretty tight seal and requires a little bit of force to remove). My guess is on loosening, since the instructions were not to drain when cold (so I'm guessing that's when it happens).
It does seem like the question about only being able to drain half the oil is becoming clearer. Seems if someone is intent on changing (nearly) all the oil, you can drain much more by leaving it overnight to drain.
I'm not sure if the brass fitting is coming loose when torquing or whether it's coming loose while trying to remove the plug (that rubber o-ring makes a pretty tight seal and requires a little bit of force to remove). My guess is on loosening, since the instructions were not to drain when cold (so I'm guessing that's when it happens).
It does seem like the question about only being able to drain half the oil is becoming clearer. Seems if someone is intent on changing (nearly) all the oil, you can drain much more by leaving it overnight to drain.
Last edited by GrantG; 09-16-2022 at 02:02 PM.
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Sounds counter-intuitive, but I think it may be safer to give a little manual "impact" when opening the drain (make sure you're loosening and not tightening). My mechanic said he holds the wrench with one hand and smacks the hand holding the wrench with his other hand. I think the idea is that a short sharp loosening force breaks that seal with less torque than a smooth steady loosening torque. Do this at your own discretion - I'm not really sure which is the safer method...
Last edited by GrantG; 09-16-2022 at 02:12 PM.