3-Pedals

I do that but without smacking. You can still accomplish sharp torque burst to the wrench by holding it the normal way (does require good wrist muscles though). But yes, that is correct. You dont want to apply continuous torque as in the way you would loosing lug nuts with a breaker bar.

Mercuriell

Well this sucks big time- I'm just set to do my first oil change at 5k kms but the thought of flat bedding the car 150 kms to the nearest dealer if the brass insert unwinds is a big turn off 🙄
How is it held in? Epoxy? Or is there some mechanical pinning? Also don't see why it couldn't be fixed back without engine removal , unless its extraction breaks something in the sump.

GrantG

I don't think you'll have a problem if you do it with engine/oil hot, make sure the hex bit is fully seated in the plug, and loosen with a swift movement of the wrench). We're talking about the tank drain, not the sump (which is a separate drain and not vulnerable to this issue - but does require special tools to drive and torque).

nerdtalker

My dealer was telling me yesterday the GT3 C40 oil is on a few month backorder, and that they're recommending owners "put their cars on ice" while waiting for it to not exceed the recommended oil change interval. Anyone had any problems getting it lately?

Mercuriell

Thanks for the advice. What is the tank made of? Is it plastic? Sounds like a store of trouble for the future as I guess there's been comparatively few oil changes done up to now.

GrantG

Carbon Fiber

GrantG

My dealer had 15 quarts for sale (and probably more in the shop) when I was there this week. They said they continue to have intermittent deliveries.

3-Pedals

Autozone has C40

Mercuriell

Thanks again- somehow missed the above posts 😬
Be interesting to see the shape of the brass insert snd if it had mechanical as well as adhesive fixation. I guess the issue is breakage of the CF surrounding the brass insert probably necessitating whole tank replacement- whilst i bet a temporary repair could be effected from below with airframe epoxy this would be a long term weakness.
I suppose having the engine hot on removal expands the brass insert more than the steel plug thus facilitating removal.

4carl

be great to get a picture-of the actual part failure..

GrantG

Fortunately, I’ve never seen it myself

If it turns out to be a common problem, I imagine we’ll have a chance to see it.

Jbravo23

Anyone got pic of the part number for the oil? Or of the bottle? Thx


If there is a supply issue would like to have some on deck.

GrantG

Make sure you buy stuff above with the “X3” after ESP…

4carl

it would be interesting to see how many members of this forum have actually changed their oil by themselves and have not experienced the issue?
I guess we could start a list and just mention if you experienced any problems with the drain plug. I just changed mine about a week ago and no issues ..the plug came out relatively easy. I was very careful not to over torque it. Set it at the factory recommendations of 15 foot pounds. I know GRANT has changed his as he started this thread up and has not had any problems. So far that’s two of us who else?

Art gt3rs

No issues here, changed mine cold (next time I change it, the car will be hot) and I think I will put a little anti-seizes on the plug. (For my own piece mind if nothing else)