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What am I missing I gave the dealer a vin of a 2018 718 with steering wheel with chrono and pdk. I asked for the PDK GT sport wheel with paddles and chrono ****. he said it was 991-044-400-32-A34 Gt Sports Steering Wheel In Leather. When it arrived no chrono ****. Who is at fault?
Just an FYI, if your thinking about doing this mod these guys had the best price (at this time) on the black leather airbag, about $500 less than Suncoast:
Hi folks, My 991.1 has the sport design wheel with the paddles. I tried to do my steering swap after purchasing a Macan wheel with MF for my PDK car.
I'd also purchased the GPS steering module adapter. I disconnected the battery and waited a couple of hours (had some errands etc).
Removing the airbag was not hard. But the hub bolt defeated me!
Having done a steering wheel swap on my 997 before, I thought this would be easy.
I saw a few YouTube videos where folks just used a small 3/8" ratchet wrench and removed the bolt in a minute.
I used the right 12mm triple square bit and my 3/8' ratchet wrench and it wouldn't budge.
Then I tried my compact impact wrench and it started to smoke
I then got out a breaker bar and sought my brother's help - while I held the wheel, he tried to turn the bolt.
A coupling that I used for an extension bar snapped! I think steering hub bolt was welded at the factory!
Anyone else face this issue?
Pretty frustrating! I put everything back together and now need to take it to my Indy I guess.
And going by the way shops are booked, I'll be able to get it in by June next year!
Hi folks, My 991.1 has the sport design wheel with the paddles. I tried to do my steering swap after purchasing a Macan wheel with MF for my PDK car.
I'd also purchased the GPS steering module adapter. I disconnected the battery and waited a couple of hours (had some errands etc).
Removing the airbag was not hard. But the hub bolt defeated me!
Having done a steering wheel swap on my 997 before, I thought this would be easy.
I saw a few YouTube videos where folks just used a small 3/8" ratchet wrench and removed the bolt in a minute.
I used the right 12mm triple square bit and my 3/8' ratchet wrench and it wouldn't budge.
Then I tried my compact impact wrench and it started to smoke
I then got out a breaker bar and sought my brother's help - while I held the wheel, he tried to turn the bolt.
A coupling that I used for an extension bar snapped! I think steering hub bolt was welded at the factory!
Anyone else face this issue?
Pretty frustrating! I put everything back together and now need to take it to my Indy I guess.
And going by the way shops are booked, I'll be able to get it in by June next year!
Don't remember it being too bad. It took some force and was a little tough to hold the wheel and crank on the bolt, since I did it alone. The bolt does have some blue threadlock on it from the factory, could have some corrosion also. I'd be weary of spraying anything in there, may run into the clockspring and damage it.
Don't remember it being too bad. It took some force and was a little tough to hold the wheel and crank on the bolt, since I did it alone. The bolt does have some blue threadlock on it from the factory, could have some corrosion also. I'd be weary of spraying anything in there, may run into the clockspring and damage it.
Yeah, it wasn't hard to crank off for me, even with the loctite, but be sure to disconnect the clockspring before actually pulling the wheel off. I broke my clockspring and only dealers can replace and reprogram a clockspring, or someone with a PIWIS and the activation codes for their own car.
Dumb question- you are trying to turn the bolt counter-clockwise, right?
Did the swap and everything went well, but eventually decided, I really don't like the silver switches/insert that come on the 991.2 wheel from Suncoast. Found the PN for the Macan switches, which are black, and installed them with the black lower insert, Really like the all black look better than the silver, JMHO.
For reference PN's for the black parts (prices from Gaudin as of this date):
Yeah, it wasn't hard to crank off for me, even with the loctite, but be sure to disconnect the clockspring before actually pulling the wheel off. I broke my clockspring and only dealers can replace and reprogram a clockspring, or someone with a PIWIS and the activation codes for their own car.
Dumb question- you are trying to turn the bolt counter-clockwise, right?
Circling back here with an update - got an electric impact wrench and got the bugger out! Made sure I torqued the bolt back to 37 ft-lbs on reassembly
Since I’d done this on the 997, I did watch out for the clockspring harness and only then did I even attempt the bolt. yes - It could be a needless expense being hasty there.
Paul’s instructions say that I won’t need an activation code for the gauge cluster menu (customize the diamond button) since I’ve sports chrono. I could only get an appointment with my Indy for mid-feb for the coding while I also get pdk and pdcc servicing done.
this might be a stupid question, but I assumed the MF stalk could be removed and covered over (I ordered the cover, 991-552-675-00-1E0) but now that I am getting ready to do the job, it looks like the stalk is actually a permanent part of the steering electronics assembly, and going from 4 stalks to 3 requires a new unit.
Is it possible to just remove the MF stalk somehow, or do I really need to get a whole new 3-stalk unit if I don't want to have the (soon-to-be-redundant) MF stalk on there?
this might be a stupid question, but I assumed the MF stalk could be removed and covered over (I ordered the cover, 991-552-675-00-1E0) but now that I am getting ready to do the job, it looks like the stalk is actually a permanent part of the steering electronics assembly, and going from 4 stalks to 3 requires a new unit.
Is it possible to just remove the MF stalk somehow, or do I really need to get a whole new 3-stalk unit if I don't want to have the (soon-to-be-redundant) MF stalk on there?
I recently took apart mine (991.2) and you can remove the MF stalk from the assembly, but need to remove the clockspring first. I took the entire stalk assembly off the car and to the bench, was pretty easy. I put it back in, so didn’t drive with it to see if you get an error, but would not think so. I believe the cover should fit after the stalk is removed as well.
Just did my wheel swap with the gpsadapter unit, a new Porsche airbag and a lightly used Macan wheel. Looks great!
Is the airbag/horn "loose" on the newer units than on the old? I checked and the 3 hold-down bolts are tight, springs are in place, etc and the horn works fine - it's just that the entire convex horn pad (airbag) seems to shift quite a bit more than the old "flat" pad on my sport wheel