991 Short Shift kit
#166
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just installed the 981-424-010-20 shifter today in my 991.2 C4S.
Observations:
1) As others have pointed out, the SOLE differences between the stock 918-424-010-10 shifter and the 981-424-010-20 short shifter are:
2) Installation took 90 minutes going slow. I have PIWIS so had instructions printed and in order in the car. First time working on P-car (first P-car too) so took it slow on things like prying out covers, switches, etc.
3) Even though PIWIS says to disconnect the PCM, I did not do so as only reason that PCM needs to be removed is to remove the AC control which takes about 10 sec. to remove. Instead, I laid a towel over the front edge of the dash and another on the now bare shifter rod, then 'hooked' the PCM (it is 'L' shaped when viewed from the side) on the dash and held it there with left arm while I removed the AC control and unplugged it. After removing the AC control, I slid the PCM back into place.
4) The red plastic part that ships with the shifter is a Porsche Workshop Tool - #9646 Locking bridge and it is used to install the shifter in proper adjustment. Although I marked the shift rods as others have recommended, I followed PIWIS instructions which were:
------------
Regards,
BIFF
Observations:
1) As others have pointed out, the SOLE differences between the stock 918-424-010-10 shifter and the 981-424-010-20 short shifter are:
a) The addition of a spring that increases the effort required on the left<>right motion of the stick.
b) The shifter rod to which the **** attaches is shorter.
c) The part number
All other internal parts measure identically; i.e. there is no change in bracket length below the pivots; only the change above the pivots resulting from the shorter shift rod.b) The shifter rod to which the **** attaches is shorter.
c) The part number
2) Installation took 90 minutes going slow. I have PIWIS so had instructions printed and in order in the car. First time working on P-car (first P-car too) so took it slow on things like prying out covers, switches, etc.
3) Even though PIWIS says to disconnect the PCM, I did not do so as only reason that PCM needs to be removed is to remove the AC control which takes about 10 sec. to remove. Instead, I laid a towel over the front edge of the dash and another on the now bare shifter rod, then 'hooked' the PCM (it is 'L' shaped when viewed from the side) on the dash and held it there with left arm while I removed the AC control and unplugged it. After removing the AC control, I slid the PCM back into place.
4) The red plastic part that ships with the shifter is a Porsche Workshop Tool - #9646 Locking bridge and it is used to install the shifter in proper adjustment. Although I marked the shift rods as others have recommended, I followed PIWIS instructions which were:
a) put transmission in neutral before removing the stock shifter (IMPORTANT)
b) when installing the new shifter, squeeze the locking bridge and snap it onto the new shifter - it only fits one way and is easy to install - the locking bridge holds the shifter precisely in the neutral position prior to reconnecting the shift cables
c) install the shift cables - if the transmission was put into neutral prior to removing the stock shifter and the locking bridge is correctly installed, the bayonet connectors will be in precisely the correct place and the shift rod ends can be snapped into the bayonet connectors (and your marks will line up if you made them)
5) In the installation video posted by the gent who uses a butter knife and spatula to remove trim, he broke the two snap in wire ties while trying to remove them from the stock shifter. This can be avoided by taking the following stepsb) when installing the new shifter, squeeze the locking bridge and snap it onto the new shifter - it only fits one way and is easy to install - the locking bridge holds the shifter precisely in the neutral position prior to reconnecting the shift cables
c) install the shift cables - if the transmission was put into neutral prior to removing the stock shifter and the locking bridge is correctly installed, the bayonet connectors will be in precisely the correct place and the shift rod ends can be snapped into the bayonet connectors (and your marks will line up if you made them)
a) remove the four screws which attach the shifter to the car and lift the shifter out of its mounted position
b) take a 3/32 short socket and from the bottom of the shifter, force the socket onto the end of the wire tie anchor that has passed through the shifter
c) the 3/32 socket will retract the wings on the snap in connector sufficiently such that the snap in connector will pop out intact with a wiggle or two and slight tension from the top side of the shifter
6) To all those who find removing the shift **** difficult or an eye blackening experience, you are likely doing it wrong. Correct steps to remove the **** are:b) take a 3/32 short socket and from the bottom of the shifter, force the socket onto the end of the wire tie anchor that has passed through the shifter
c) the 3/32 socket will retract the wings on the snap in connector sufficiently such that the snap in connector will pop out intact with a wiggle or two and slight tension from the top side of the shifter
a) Unclip the shift boot at the front – a thin wedge on either side at front of boot will unsnap the boot
b) Unhook the shift boot at the rear after unclipping the shift boot at the front
c) Pull the shift boot up and away from the console
d) Grab the shift boot just below the **** and rotate it counterclockwise until it stops – about 1/8 turn – doing so unlatches a locking mechanism
e) “Gently” pull the shift **** and it will pop right off
f) Installing the **** is the reverse of removing it but you need to make sure that the 'teeth' that grab the groove in the shift rod are even with the groove; otherwise, you will not be able to rotate the boot clockwise into the lock position
7) End result of the installationb) Unhook the shift boot at the rear after unclipping the shift boot at the front
c) Pull the shift boot up and away from the console
d) Grab the shift boot just below the **** and rotate it counterclockwise until it stops – about 1/8 turn – doing so unlatches a locking mechanism
e) “Gently” pull the shift **** and it will pop right off
f) Installing the **** is the reverse of removing it but you need to make sure that the 'teeth' that grab the groove in the shift rod are even with the groove; otherwise, you will not be able to rotate the boot clockwise into the lock position
a) shifting is more precise. Because of the increase in left<>right effort, you really need to intend to go to the 1-2 or 5-6 gates. The added spring results in the shifter homing in on the 3-4 gate and you must overcome that inclination - increase in effort is very helpful and not at all excessive.
b) Shorter shift rod means easier access to the PCM touch screen - this is a bigger deal than it sounds as dialing a phone number with stock shifter required curving hand around shifter.
c) User rating for short shifter - *****
PS-Heavier shift **** will not assist with effort needed to overcome the spring. In theory, it will slow down your shifts given that effort required to move stock lightweight **** times increased mass of heavier **** will yield slower acceleration of the heavier **** through the shift gates CONVERSELY to achieve same speed through the shift gates, you will need to increase effort twofold – added effort needed to overcome added spring of short shifter PLUS added effort needed to accelerate the heavier shift **** through shift gates at same speed as lighter stock ****.b) Shorter shift rod means easier access to the PCM touch screen - this is a bigger deal than it sounds as dialing a phone number with stock shifter required curving hand around shifter.
c) User rating for short shifter - *****
------------
Regards,
BIFF
Last edited by Biff trout; 01-30-2017 at 12:34 AM.
The following users liked this post:
RichardA (07-07-2021)
#167
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Great write up, thanks. It really is a great mod.
#168
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Still somewhat confused about the effect of this mod in relation to a money shift, as intimated elsewhere - in other threads.... if the spring is indeed stronger on the left-right plane, getting out of 7th or 5th would pull you with more strength towards neutral which is the 3rd/4th plane...
So with that mod, you "could" more easily miss a downshift from 7->6 and get pulled into 4th (no good) or even miss your simple 5->6 upshift (and nab 4th instead). Seems it does the exact opposite of what I'd want, but I get this is a short shift mod, not a "shift pattern improver" mod ;-) Wondering if we can get more opinions on people who did it re: money shifts. I've asked before, sorry if I'm nagging ;-)
My 7MT still feels like this:
So with that mod, you "could" more easily miss a downshift from 7->6 and get pulled into 4th (no good) or even miss your simple 5->6 upshift (and nab 4th instead). Seems it does the exact opposite of what I'd want, but I get this is a short shift mod, not a "shift pattern improver" mod ;-) Wondering if we can get more opinions on people who did it re: money shifts. I've asked before, sorry if I'm nagging ;-)
My 7MT still feels like this:
#169
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
^^^ I don't think the money shift will ever be a problem. On the track you will never use sixth gear and on every day driving the red line on fourth gear is high enough to put you on triple digits speed safely.
#170
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Stick Out Tongue](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
That's the main reason I'm annoyed my car only displays the gear after the clutch is released, unlike others with more more chrono options I guess... 5-6..
#172
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I too would be very interested if other rennlisters with the mod feel it improves this relationship.
#173
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Still somewhat confused about the effect of this mod in relation to a money shift, as intimated elsewhere - in other threads.... if the spring is indeed stronger on the left-right plane, getting out of 7th or 5th would pull you with more strength towards neutral which is the 3rd/4th plane...
So with that mod, you "could" more easily miss a downshift from 7->6 and get pulled into 4th (no good) or even miss your simple 5->6 upshift (and nab 4th instead). Seems it does the exact opposite of what I'd want, but I get this is a short shift mod, not a "shift pattern improver" mod ;-) Wondering if we can get more opinions on people who did it re: money shifts. I've asked before, sorry if I'm nagging ;-)
My 7MT still feels like this:
So with that mod, you "could" more easily miss a downshift from 7->6 and get pulled into 4th (no good) or even miss your simple 5->6 upshift (and nab 4th instead). Seems it does the exact opposite of what I'd want, but I get this is a short shift mod, not a "shift pattern improver" mod ;-) Wondering if we can get more opinions on people who did it re: money shifts. I've asked before, sorry if I'm nagging ;-)
My 7MT still feels like this:
#174
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I actually feel that the weight of the classic shift **** adds more control to shifting over the stock ****. I can't speak of "speed" of shifting, but subjectively it feels better and more smooth.
#175
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As far as coming out of 7th and going into 4th is concerned, I am only in 7th on highways and I let shifter self guide to neutral then move to 6th, 5th or 4th depending on circumstances. 7th gear lockout engages when shifter goes to neutral allowing easy shifts into 5th or 6th.
Regards,
BIFF
#176
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Downshifts from 7 are the biggest gotchya, which would be very unlikely on a track.
Its not hard to upshift from 5-6, doubt that will be an issue. Just learn to emphasize right-ward pressure.
My car displays the gear selection before releasing the clutch - but I do have sport chrono.
I see only upside to this mod - the vagueness of the gear slots before the Gt4 shifter would not be your friend on a track either.
Its not hard to upshift from 5-6, doubt that will be an issue. Just learn to emphasize right-ward pressure.
My car displays the gear selection before releasing the clutch - but I do have sport chrono.
I see only upside to this mod - the vagueness of the gear slots before the Gt4 shifter would not be your friend on a track either.
#178
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Tallahassee, Florida
Posts: 1,016
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
16 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have contemplated a short-shift install on my 2015 991 GTS. However, given I have the same complaints with the stock shifter that others have with the short shifter, I am glad I resisted the temptation. The best short shift I have ever driven was when I was pursing my wife-to-be. She had a 1966 MGB with the smoothest shifter I have ever felt. However, that is the only positive thing I can say about a 1966 MGB.
#180
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Wanted to share my experience on installing this short shift kit, albeit in a 982 (not a 911). Amazing how many parts carryover between my 718GTS and 911's - especially on the interior. After reading all the valuable info on this thread, some additional content on the 718Forum and many YouTube videos... it was a success. Little details like @Biff trout adding steps to salvage the wire harness clips on the shift mount are priceless in forums like this. One clarification i wanted to make on my installation, in Biff's step by step post on lines 5b) and 5c) he recommended using a 3/32 socket to recess the fins on the underside of the harness retaining clips to pull them back up through the mount. 3/32 didn't work for me - was much too small for the clips used on my model. i crept up the socket set and found that the 7/32 worked in my instance. i mentioned that recommendation in the 718 forum and got praise for it, but Biff is actually to credit.
I probably spent about 2 1/2 hours on the entire project. 75% of my time (no exaggeration) was on removing the trim. Do yourself a favor and get a few decent auto trim removal tools from Amazon before proceeding. Mine were cheesy and didn’t work well - but you CAN’T safely use a screwdriver without the risk of marring or cracking a piece of plastic so it took WAY longer than it should have for me. I was probably over-paranoid about damaging the console trim since it’s carbon fiber. If it weren’t for the prolonged trim removal I would have been complete in less than 20 mins.
Something else I did that may help others especially if you had difficulty removing the trim… I put the PCM, AC controller, and all of the other components back in after installing the shifter - but did not close it all back up with the trim yet. Took it for a test drive to make sure everything was working the way it was supposed to before I put the final three pieces of trim back on. I didn’t want to wrestle with those again if something wasn’t working right!!!!
It’s a nice change. Worth the DIY install. Honestly don’t know if it would be worth it to me if I had paid and additional $500 for Porsche installation. i don't know that i feel $800 worth of difference if i paid for the porsche service guys to do it-haha, but i do like it. pleased i did it. Thanks for all of feedback and responses above which led to my success. Lots of help!
I probably spent about 2 1/2 hours on the entire project. 75% of my time (no exaggeration) was on removing the trim. Do yourself a favor and get a few decent auto trim removal tools from Amazon before proceeding. Mine were cheesy and didn’t work well - but you CAN’T safely use a screwdriver without the risk of marring or cracking a piece of plastic so it took WAY longer than it should have for me. I was probably over-paranoid about damaging the console trim since it’s carbon fiber. If it weren’t for the prolonged trim removal I would have been complete in less than 20 mins.
Something else I did that may help others especially if you had difficulty removing the trim… I put the PCM, AC controller, and all of the other components back in after installing the shifter - but did not close it all back up with the trim yet. Took it for a test drive to make sure everything was working the way it was supposed to before I put the final three pieces of trim back on. I didn’t want to wrestle with those again if something wasn’t working right!!!!
It’s a nice change. Worth the DIY install. Honestly don’t know if it would be worth it to me if I had paid and additional $500 for Porsche installation. i don't know that i feel $800 worth of difference if i paid for the porsche service guys to do it-haha, but i do like it. pleased i did it. Thanks for all of feedback and responses above which led to my success. Lots of help!
Last edited by JoeB3; 05-12-2021 at 09:07 AM.