rugu6869

Do you have a full list of your current suspension setup?
Last time I saw a list was from 2021. Not sure if you've made any updates or changes since. I'm looking to sure up my suspension on uneven surfaces (I truly appreciate a quick acting, planted setup).
Parts list would be greatly appreciated!

I'm looking to make my 2017 a back-road burner. I currently have just the Bilstein coil-overs, DSC and a couple other supporting mods for the lowering.
My car is a C2, manual coupe.

I had about $7K wrapped up in a 2015 GTI and the same for a 2006 BMW 330i that allowed the cars to be totally engaging on the back roads.

I have a purpose built track car that we race, so I don't need a track type of setup.

TY!

4 Point 0

Tractive Coilovers and Top hats.
120 Front 170 rear Manthey Racing spring rate.
E-Motion shim adjustable control arms
OEM GT3 front anti-Sway bar Tarett end links
Tarett rear Anti-Sway bar and end links.
Tarett RAS delete bar.
E-Motion lower strut bearings.
DSC V3 latest one with TPC custom map.

-4.4 Front camber -3.2 rear.

if not wanting track setup 100/150 is a great allrounder spring rate setup.

4 Point 0

I’ve finally gone all out in the brakes.

I ordered full Brembo GT-R BBK on the front.


Ti vented pistons

I’m really interested in the pedal feel with the Titanium vented pistons.

I was happy with the GTS kit, best pedal feel so far. The place where I think the GT-R will shine is high speed long braking. Pulling the car down from 300km/hr to 90km/hr.

Being a fully forged caliper, it won’t flex and wobble around like cast ones do in extreme braking. I imagine the sir trapped between the piston and pad, starts to super heat and expand, and pushes the piston away from the pad.

So the vents release the air as it expands. Sounds impressive. Let’s see how much heat the nickel plating can endure.

jakermc

Awesome! What pad will you run with them?

spyderbret

Just curious as to why you went with Brembo over AP Racing?

I have Brembo GT on my T and the AP on my GT3. I love the AP on the track. I'm looking forward to your feedback when you get them installed. Interesting tech.

4 Point 0

Race Technologies RE10.

Brembo own AP. Brembo have been around a lot longer.

Every single track friend I have that runs AP has cracked their rotors at the track. AP boast that they have 82 cooling vanes. Brembo have 46 or 72 Version. 82 is a step too far and I believe make the AP rotors weak and that's why I see so many cracked ones at the track.

I melt the paint off the calipers and still have never cracked a brembo type III rotor.

The new setup is 380 x 34. Thicker Hi thermal rotors with a deeper annulus than I have been running.


Brembo GT-R


380 x 34

4 Point 0

Brembo GTS


This is my original Brembo GTS. 380 x 32 Lighteeight smaller annulus.




Cooked

I can wear the face completely off the type Iii rotors and kill the special heat resistant anodisised coating and still not crack the rotor. The pedal feel of the type III is second to none.

After killing two sets of GTS calipers itvwas timw to go all out, with the GT-R

spyderbret

Yeh, I have been following your brake adventures over the past few years. I guess I'm not fast enough yet because I have not cracked an AP rotor. Your logic makes sense though. I'm sure I'd be happy with the Brembo's as well!!

jakermc

I ran the Brembo Type III rotor for MANY years on the race cars and they are fantastic, and not a single negative thing to say about them. Their BBK kits are top shelf and would recommend them highly. The new caliper is pretty trick, wish I had that back in the day!

But I also feel the AP packages are at the top of the food chain. On the rotor side of things, on my personal car, they are showing virtually no wear thus far and even minimal surface veining. Same for most of the customer installs we have done. But I do have one customer car that showed some surface veining that was a little heavier than I'd like to see. I think care and feeding for this rotor might be a little more important than for the Brembo, which seemingly has higher tolerances. By this I mean don't shock the rotor with threshold braking before a good warm up, and also give it a good cool down before parking. I've been really good about this on my car and I am now very careful to preach this to owners on new installs. The Brembo you can light on fire and it will just look back at you and say "thank you sir, may I have another".

4 Point 0

I don’t want to rubbish AP. They are a great product.

I understand my use is extreme. My car is not stock, and I tend to explore the upper limits of all components.

The guys in our private track group are the same.

So whilst we see the very limits of thing’s most people won’t.


AP Rotor

Crack


I’m yet to see a Brembo Type III crack like this.

I’m yet to boil SRF. So here are two constants in my car.

RE10 may be another. Even though I am a huge fan of Endless ME20 and N35S.

911T4ME

Any videos of your track work, 4.0? Curious about the tracks and top speeds you reach. Impressive, I'm sure.

spyderbret

That crack is wild for sure! And really we are splitting hairs. What I love is that you really push these products to the edge and then share that knowledge with everyone so we can make informed decisions.
Keep up the good work! LOL!

4 Point 0

Most of the tracks here have shorter straights, so max speed is usually 240km/hr.

The Bend in Adelaide 280, and Conrod Straight at Bathurst is the only place to see 300 at the track. Not counting the closed of highways in Mexico of course, if you know what I mean. 🤣.

I don’t know how to post vedeo’s Do you need a youtube account? I have a couple on insta.

innout

I am contemplating upgrading my front brakes to GT-R on my T. Do you think leaving the rear as is with OEMs will result in brake bias to the point it makes the car unstable? I am new to tracking and will not be abusing the brakes more than 2-3 times a year... mostly on auto-x.

4 Point 0

A couple of things to consider.

Do you run full traction control off? If so, then that takes a lot of pressure off the rear setup.

If you’re going to try and just do fronts in 380 and leave rear at 330, you’d want to at least put braided lines in rear and run the same pads.

If you do that, I donMt think the car would be unstable, but I do think you will get accelerated wear in the rear.

380 x 34 has a huge thermal mass. So it gets rid of the heat efficiently. The stock rear, not so much.

Just some things to consider.