170 Rear

Tenders 30

-4.4 Fr Camber


With the current 170mm long springs in the front, I have run out of lowering adjustment.

As the new stiffer front spring rate and stiffer tenders, will raise the height of the car, I’ll need to drop back to a 140mm long front spring.

Even though I am going stiffer, I won’t be backing off the front neg camber. When i suggested it to my race mechanic he laughed. He said -4.4 isn’t a lot. It just seems like a lot to the average person.

 

I was viewing some old footage of my car on the skid pan and on the track. Whenever I braked, the nose of the car would take a massive dive, and then launch into the air under acceleration. Anyone who thinks stock suspension is adequate, needs someone to film you accelerate, brake, accelerate. It will make you feel ill.

Spring Rates.

24/48 Base. (Camry stuff)

33/108 GTS (Sport PASM)

My new tender spring is 30. Gives you an idea of how ridiculously soft the front of a GTS is.

The Front end of my car has gone from

30 to 75 (10 helper) to 100 (10 helper) to 120 (30 tender)

The rear end

108 to 150 (10 helper) to 170 (30 Tender)

I’ve learnt a few things along the way.

Front 30 to 120. Is that 400%? 🤣

Cup car is 240 (45 Tender) for comparison.

My car is very streetable with Tractive and DSC.

 

What a big difference!

I've remember in my GTS specially under acceleration how the front suspension was raised. I have some photos in circuit and the gap between the wheel and fender was huge, what I didn't know is that the spring rates were so low.

For example, now in my RS I have 100 front and 160 rear and the car is much lighter, and yet "streetable"

 

100/160 seems to be a great all rounder.

I’ve been on 100/150 for quite some time, but I now want more at the track. It seems tractive can still keep it civil on the street . I look forward to getting the car back, late tomorrow or the next day.

i’m also having the sound Symposer removed.

 

Let me know how you like the suspension setup... I want to do something similar next for the S.
I do want the car still comfortable on the street.

 

As I enjoy the track, I’m fine with a firm ride. I really dislike floaty rides.

For non track, and just massively improved handling, I think 80/130 is spot on.

If you enjoy tracking and want to be fast you’ll need 100/150. Then beyond that, expect a little compromise.

I expect 120/170 to be very firm. But Tractive with DSC makes it liveable. Some GT3 guys have gone 130/200. They are amazed its still compliant.

Its a testament to Tractive and DSC.

I had 110/180 on my M4 and it was too stiff on the street. It used to skip on heavy bumps.
Our tracks aren’t the smoothest either. So I would say 120/170 is the limit for me as well.

I do want to play with the helper/tenders.

I await to see if 30n/mm is still a helper or has become a tender with this setup and weight of car.

 

Riddle me this.

I went 20% stiffer on the springs and the car feels 20% softer than before. The ride is smoother and more comfortable. WTF?

Perhaps the dampers are doing less work because of the higher spring rate?

I did initially say that i would most likely end up somewhere near 100/180. So perhaps they listened and valved it to accomodate?

So now at 120/170 (closest to 100/180) it feels balanced and compliant.

 

Off topic but can you put a .2 gt3 rear on your bumper if you don't change the spoiler?

 

As there is a GT3 touring i would say yes.

However you would need to change exhaust for centre hole. I wasnMt going for a fake touring.

I just loved the front end and for the Aero, 3rd radiator for track and radiator protection screens.

 

And now ladies and gentleman, quite possibly the craziest mod of all time.

I am considering changing the rear quarter panel from GTS Wide body to GT2-RS Extra Wide body. Hear me out.

The cars performance is being handicapped due to extremely poor air flow through the intercoolers. So it heat soaks constantly, and looses performance. At this power level, most people probably wouldn’t notice. However when you like to pick fights with GT2-RS and Ferrari Pista and McLaren 765LT’s, you don’t want them having any further advantage then they already do.

With decent flow through the intercooler, the tune can be further refined, boost increased from 27psi to 30psi and I should be able to out perform or at least match these in most areas.

 

Yes

 

Not to rain on your parade, but that’s an insanely complex and expensive way to solve heat soak - and there’s no guarantee it will solve your cooling goals.

Please save yourself the time, money, and frustration, and instead install a quality water/meth kit. That will reduce your IAT’s much more than any additional airflow to the IC’s ever could.

There’s a reason the 2RS, even with the additional airflow to larger intercoolers, still needs an external water sprayer to keep the IAT’s cool… just get water/meth and call it a day.

 

^^^ This makes sense! Do it!

 

It’s not complex at all. I have a couple of perfect blueprints and all ready designed parts called TurboS and GT2-RS.

This would allow me to do a 3.8 Engine swap in the future, should i ever have the need……..or want 🤣.

There is no end to my insanity. For those who want to say, why don’t you just buy a GT2-RS? Because they are $800,000 AUD here. My car is half that. With an additional budget if $400,000 I should be able to make it pretty good.

 

I love this car and thread but know eventually you are gonna say "threw in the towel and bought a cup car".