When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thank you both for your experience sharing. I do believe you prefer linear spring rates versus progressive.
I need to check also the V3 option which is the "cheaper" solution from KW.
Thank you both for your experience sharing. I do believe you prefer linear spring rates versus progressive.
I need to check also the V3 option which is the "cheaper" solution from KW.
Linear is the only true spring rate. Progressive has no place on a track. Once the body has rolled, its too late.
Progressive is comfy on the street but gives a false sense of sportiness, but when pushed on the track, the performance just isn’t there. It’s a silly compromise.
Do you want a street car that gives the false impression that it may perform on the track? Or would you prefer something that is real, it does perform, but is firm on the street?
Firm is a small price to pay for extreme confidence when pushing. IMHO.
Following latest clarification with KW expert both KW DDC and KW V3 can set front 90 NM and rear 150Nm linear spring rates. KW V4 cannot get less than 190Nm rear.
Time to decide is I have to pay 1.5k extra for electronic adjustment vs manual.
Linear is the only true spring rate. Progressive has no place on a track. Once the body has rolled, its too late.
Progressive is comfy on the street but gives a false sense of sportiness, but when pushed on the track, the performance just isn’t there. It’s a silly compromise.
Do you want a street car that gives the false impression that it may perform on the track? Or would you prefer something that is real, it does perform, but is firm on the street?
Firm is a small price to pay for extreme confidence when pushing. IMHO.
Once you have driven with linear springs on the track/autocross you won't be able to go back to progressive springs without accepting early body roll that can contribute to poor handling characterstics.
I went from progressive springs to linear springs on my RX-7 and it was a completely different car at autocross/track. However, it definitely gave up comfort on the street. But I still stuck with linear springs for the better predictability/handling when pushing the car.
Following latest clarification with KW expert both KW DDC and KW V3 can set front 90 NM and rear 150Nm linear spring rates. KW V4 cannot get less than 190Nm rear.
Time to decide is I have to pay 1.5k extra for electronic adjustment vs manual.
Your KW “Expert” is full of it.
Just because he won’t sell you anything less than 190 for rear, doesn’t stop you purchasing 150 or 170 and fitting them.
Valving is not specific to a single spring rate. There aren’t 10 increment sets of valves.
All valves have a range and that range is pretty wide.
I’d be willing to bet those valves would be absolutely fine from 140-230 no problem at all.
I had my KW-CS springs changed before fitting. 110/180.
I didn’t like life on the street. But every time I turned, it brought a smile to my face. So I was hesitant when doing the 911 when it was suggested I start at 100/180.
I started at 75/150. Turns out Tractive was good enough to handle 100/180. But I have settled on the Manthey Racing spec of 120/170 for GT’s.
I am not a suspension expert.
Next week I will arrange a f2f discussion to finalize the final. Setup.
When I asked if I can install 150Nm springs to V4 the answer was no due to monotube suspension design.
V3, DDC is dual tube design and can work with lower spring rates.
V4 is mono tube design and needs stiff springs.
Still searching andin order to avoing damage your thread we might need to stop talk here and jump on suspension area.
Interesting, I guess that you've made some calculations in order to avoid rubbing your fenders, specially at the back, 14mm seems a lot. I don't have any more my GTS, but I've remember that the space left, was not much.
Interesting, I guess that you've made some calculations in order to avoid rubbing your fenders, specially at the back, 14mm seems a lot. I don't have any more my GTS, but I've remember that the space left, was not much.
I have Tractive Coilovers and E-motion control arms.
With neg -4.4 front and -3.2 rear, my stock wheels are kicked in a way. This will bring them back out.
13 mm is less than what a friend runs. He went 18 in rear and 15 up front no problem. But he only runs 305’s. I run 325 and want to try the Merc Black Series 335 Cup2-R. If it has the correct weight rating.
@4 Point 0 I remember seeing something earlier in this thread about you exploring the possibility of adding intake scoops. Came across these guys who supposedly sell quarter panel skins with intake scoops for 991.2’s. Could be a good solution to your heat soak issues. I don’t know anything about this company but here’s the website: https://wickedmotorworks.com/product...uarter-panels/
I grabbed a couple of screen shots in the case the link doesn’t work.
@4 Point 0 I remember seeing something earlier in this thread about you exploring the possibility of adding intake scoops. Came across these guys who supposedly sell quarter panel skins with intake scoops for 991.2’s. Could be a good solution to your heat soak issues. I don’t know anything about this company but here’s the website: https://wickedmotorworks.com/product...uarter-panels/
I grabbed a couple of screen shots in the case the link doesn’t work.
Wicked Motorworks is absolute crap. Used to see their stuff in SoCal all the time and it always looked like garbage. I wouldn't spend a dime there.
It’s all good man. 🤣. He was great in Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul.
i shelved the idea for now, as the turbo i/c are on a very different angle to ours. It would require too much additional work on top of doing the vents.
10-27-2022 | 07:18 AM
