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I added the center radiator and upgraded the outsides to CSF in August. For oil temps, no issue with the 3-4 shift after switching to APR tune.
I was a little disappointed in the results after hearing glowing feedback from posters about adding the center.
If the air temps are above 80deg, I still see 270 oil temps after 5-6 laps.
The change I see is temps come down much quicker following a cool down lap. Down to 230's when I get in the pits.
Your results may vary, I'm highly tuned/modded
I put the Centre PWR on with the GT3 front bumper. So whilst I never thought it did much either, reading about others that track and got transmission failure faults and over heating faults, I avoided all that.
I have destroyed 3 sets of front brake rotors due to heat.
I killed the E-Diff.
I have disintegrated brand new OEM pads in 3 x 20min sessions. More cooling isn’t going to hurt my car.
I need to run water/meth as well. Intercoolers are heat soaking badly.
I’ve just ordered a fresh set of Cup2-R.
I now run Endless N35S pads full time. They are fine on the street. 🤣
The OS Giken mechanical diff really calmed the car down.
When you are on the edge, it doesn’t just let go. It gives you such pure feedback, you can balance it on the edge, and if you do step over the line, a small correction brings it back. It really is a joy to drive. It has finally gotten to a point where it is just pure. Everything is working together.
Unlike the early days 🤣
Yeah, still deciding the best way forward on the I/C heat soak.
It's a tough one. There's just no decent ambient airflow back there. The OEM I/Cs provide the best ambient air flow but are not large. Larger intercoolers have a higher thermal load capacity but reduce ambient airflow.
I was looking into adding fans to the intercoolers because dyno testing was painfully slow waiting for I/Cs to cool, and we have a badass dyno setup that uses wind tunnel blowers and pushes ~55mph air over the car. We later added rear blowers that force ambient air through the I/C setup and ALL the heat soak problems went away. We could do pull after pull after pull....
FRONT
REAR Blowers. Industrial floor blowers, not Home Depot.
So, I designed a shroud that fit between the I/C and lower air duct. It's made to hold a pretty powerful 6.5" Spal puller fan. I was going to wire them up with an adjustable thermal switch. We went the blower route because we put more than our shop 911 on the dyno, so we never used the setup. I've often wondered if, or how beneficial it would be on a road or track going car. I doubt the setup would fit if you're running I/Cs with a modified lower ambient duct, but if you're running the stock lower duct it should. I've never even test fit the setup aside from the shroud fitting on the I/C and duct, but if you're running the lower duct and willing... I can send you the setup to try. Or you can strap some blowers to your roof. I know that works very well
RUF style inlets on the rear quarters, or as @4.0 mentioned before, rear window inlets.
Problem with fans is they block flow, I remember lots of debate about using them in my days as a Noble M12 owner, the intercooler on that got no airflow due to poor aero so people tried all kinds of solutions.
IDK if it's going to be better. I suspect it would definitely be better at no-slow speed, because ambient flow<55mph is squat.
The fans I have I believe are 50 amps each. for a small fan, that's a LOT of power/CFM. I recall spending a lot of time trying to source a fan so small AND powerful.
As far as high ambient airflow goes, that would outpace the fan/baffle. Flap valves can be added to the baffle that open where there is excess ambient airflow, and close when the fan turns on. It's fairly common on aftermarket radiator shrouds. This does go back a few years, but there were some calculations done on the cross-sectional areas of the outlet duct and fan shroud to make sure I wasn't adding a choke point to the system. The short of it is, we'll never know until it's tried.
1st pic is what happened to my Brembo GTS BBK 380mm front and rear. I was due for rotors as I had worn the Type III pattern off the rotor. (46 Vane)
Old Replaced
2nd Pic is with the new Type III rotors that have 72 Vane, but the fresh Callipers have also now turned pink.
New Callipers and rotors
Last pic is the advertisement.
I have a Black and White theme going with my car.
Pink calipers is messing with the look.
Advertised ones
Its disappointing that these are supposed to perform better than painted ones. I specifically bought these believing they were a superior coating that would not drastically change. My stock Porsche callipers went an ugly brown.
The Brembo GTS do not have outer dust seals because they are meant for tracking. The work exceptionally well, and I am yet to brake in any other vehicle that has as good of a pedal feel as this setup. It’s just a huge annoyance that black callipers went Pink! Again!
1st pic is what happened to my Brembo GTS BBK 380mm front and rear. I was due for rotors as I had worn the Type III pattern off the rotor. (46 Vane)
Old Replaced
2nd Pic is with the new Type III rotors that have 72 Vane, but the fresh Callipers have also now turned pink.
New Callipers and rotors
Last pic is the advertisement.
I have a Black and White theme going with my car.
Pink calipers is messing with the look.
Advertised ones
Its disappointing that these are supposed to perform better than painted ones. I specifically bought these believing they were a superior coating that would not drastically change. My stock Porsche callipers went an ugly brown.
The Brembo GTS do not have outer dust seals because they are meant for tracking. The work exceptionally well, and I am yet to brake in any other vehicle that has as good of a pedal feel as this setup. It’s just a huge annoyance that black callipers went Pink! Again!
We used to call them Brownbo’s - I remember this happening on a BBK I had in the 2000’s, the red Brembo’s would turn into a poop brown when they got heat cycled on track.
We used to call them Brownbo’s - I remember this happening on a BBK I had in the 2000’s, the red Brembo’s would turn into a poop brown when they got heat cycled on track.
Yep, we have always called the Red ones Brownbo’s as well. But Pinkbo’s C’mon! These are hard anodised, not painted.
There is extremely limited space for a larger Y-Pipe on the 9A2, so it’s a much larger project than you’d think.
Think 3D scanning, CAD, rapid prototyping, testing for gains, making iterations, fabricating or printing the final piece itself. Then how big of a market is there? Surely I’d buy one, but the 992 is about to get a facelift and the aftermarket has moved on…
They seem to really hook up well and are quiet. I’m interested to see if it cures my intermittent issue at the track. The car already feels more powerful, like the interference has subsided.
There has been some up grades on the COBB and perhaps it is playing nicer now with the M-Engineering PDK tune.
I am ready for more spring rate. I’m currently at 100/150,
20% increase would be 120/180
30% increase would be 130/200 (Some GT3 guys tested)
02-18-2022, 01:45 PM
. You always pull a rabbit out the hat.
