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Lowering Springs help (Stuck T55)

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Old 05-10-2020, 06:44 PM
  #61  
polobai
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Knock the platform upwards to expose the top snap ring. The snap ring actually sits inside that platform when seated correctly-NOT with the platform resting on it.
Old 05-10-2020, 06:46 PM
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Just to confirm: a rubber mallet knocking the ring upwards toward the metal rod with the PASM cable sticking out, correct? Thanks for all your help polobai, it’s made the process quite intuitive!


Originally Posted by polobai
Knock the platform upwards to expose the top snap ring. The snap ring actually sits inside that platform when seated correctly-NOT with the platform resting on it.
Old 05-10-2020, 06:48 PM
  #63  
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You got it-knocking it upwards from the bottom.
Old 05-10-2020, 06:50 PM
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woohoo!! I took off yet another part 😂 How do I lower this ring? Would I have to use pliers here?




Originally Posted by polobai
You got it-knocking it upwards from the bottom.
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:54 PM
  #65  
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Use a flat screwdriver and push on one end while holding the other. This will flex the clip and get one end out of the groove. From there push the other end out and down to your desired level. When the clip is in properly, it should rotate in the groove without binding.
Old 05-11-2020, 08:22 AM
  #66  
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Final step! Remounting the shock back in with the TechArt spring.... It seems I'm not getting enough compression on the spring to fit the assembly back into place. I've followed the zip tie method again, but it seems like these zip ties have more give than desirable, and the spring is not staying in it's compressed state.... ultimately fitting a spring compressor would be best, but doesn't seem like I have room... any suggestions?

Trying to reseat the assembly back on it's perch as shown in the pics... Also, provided some measurement pictures for the grooves as requested...

Fitting the top of the strut back in place

Perch I'm trying to re-seat the assembly on

About 2cm total of adjustability between the different ring settings




Originally Posted by polobai
Use a flat screwdriver and push on one end while holding the other. This will flex the clip and get one end out of the groove. From there push the other end out and down to your desired level. When the clip is in properly, it should rotate in the groove without binding.
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Old 05-11-2020, 08:33 AM
  #67  
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Thanks for all the pictures and real world experience! Usually people make it always seem easy peasy! LOL

Old 05-11-2020, 09:49 AM
  #68  
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Slide the top into place then jack up the bottom of the shock to get in place.
Old 05-11-2020, 10:23 AM
  #69  
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@polobai Is there any technique I should be using to slide the bottom of the strut onto the perch from the jack so I don't leave any fingers behind?

Originally Posted by polobai
Slide the top into place then jack up the bottom of the shock to get in place.
Old 05-11-2020, 10:27 AM
  #70  
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I would say it is relatively intuitive, but there is proper technique involved... it's probably human nature (my nature I mean) to get frustrated and try to force things in place if it's not working after the first few attempts... this has actually been more a process of patience and re-evaluation rather than ham fisting... Additionally, having all the excellent resources here to walk me through has been very valuable!

I can do the fronts now in about 30 minutes... the rears, still working on making sure I have clean technique!

Originally Posted by 991.1 Guy
Thanks for all the pictures and real world experience! Usually people make it always seem easy peasy! LOL
Old 05-11-2020, 10:54 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by LargePuppy
@polobai Is there any technique I should be using to slide the bottom of the strut onto the perch from the jack so I don't leave any fingers behind?
A big prybar also helped me to get it in the right position without sacrificing any body parts. Once you get the top seated, the bottom is almost in line and you can use a big prybar/screwdriver to align it into place and get the bolt in.
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Old 05-11-2020, 10:57 AM
  #72  
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Thank you good sir! I type this response with eight fingers and two thumbs in tact... I hope to update you with the same later today! I'm going to try and swing by the store during lunch to see if I can find zip ties more robust than the current 175lb ones just to be on the safe side


Originally Posted by polobai
A big prybar also helped me to get it in the right position without sacrificing any body parts. Once you get the top seated, the bottom is almost in line and you can use a big prybar/screwdriver to align it into place and get the bolt in.
Old 05-11-2020, 11:05 AM
  #73  
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The zip ties wont help at the stage you are at...they are more for getting the spring out from the strut and/or getting them back on the strut if you dont have a spring compressor that fits. In this case, its a matter of getting it in the right angle to get the top to seat in the holes so you can work on the bottom.
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Old 05-11-2020, 05:41 PM
  #74  
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Has anyone noticed or done any testing if lowering spring are installed +dropping the perches to the lowest setting would have any ill effects like riding on the bump stops or not allowing for proper strut travel? Sorry to de-rail but most springs that drop the height dont compensate for the shock travel thus you have issues with ride and overall suspension performance. I recall reading that most springs on the .2 platform didnt hinder the amount of travel but nothing about when you drop the perch another .5-1 inch.
Old 05-11-2020, 05:52 PM
  #75  
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I have the H&R springs on my Carerra T with the spring on the lowest perch. No bottoming out on bump stops or other ill effects that I can see (other than bumps feeling more pronounced). One day I will pick up a DSC controller from @Tom@TPC Racing to help with that.
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