Lowering Springs help (Stuck T55)
#1
Lowering Springs help (Stuck T55)
So this weekend was my father's 73rd birthday and as a fun activity, we decided to dismantle the puppymobile and install some TechArt lowering springs. We made solid progress from the how-to's etc. provided, but got stuck on removing a T55 bolt from the rear passenger side strut. Before I attempted any further ham-handing, I'd figure I'd seek advice / suggestions from the more experienced and educated... any ideas how to get this thing out? My next attempt later today will be go up from a 3/8 in size ratchet to 1/2 in (more leverage), and also soak the bolt with some WD-40... Photos below show the annoying screw from both sides to give context - appreciate the help!
#2
Possibly heat the head? Sometimes trying to tighten without gronking on it then loosening works. Hit the head politely with a soft face hammer to jar the bolt. Can hurt to spray something but the threads are horizontal so it won’t likely go where it’s needed.
Do you have an air impact?
Do you have an air impact?
#4
I read a bit on heating the head, but my interweb education indicates that could damage the bolt... I don't have an air-impact gun... working with a 250 piece toolset, and then making trips to home depot etc. as I need additional tools (had to pick up a set of skinny wrenches yesterday for the front struts)
Possibly heat the head? Sometimes trying to tighten without gronking on it then loosening works. Hit the head politely with a soft face hammer to jar the bolt. Can hurt to spray something but the threads are horizontal so it won’t likely go where it’s needed.
Do you have an air impact?
Do you have an air impact?
#6
edit: had the appropriate T bit (55?) to hold the head and loosened the large hex nut with a 1/2” drive breaker bar. These cars aren’t that old so a little WD-40 or Gibbs penetrating oil should be all you need.
The following users liked this post:
polobai (05-04-2020)
#7
If it didn’t come off with the breaker bar, add a pipe onto the breaker bar. It will come off! Guaranteed!!!
The following users liked this post:
AdamSanta85 (05-04-2020)
Trending Topics
#8
I'm going to start by picking up some Liquid Wrench from HD to soak the uncooperative bolt, along with picking up a 1/2in T55 bit, and a breaker bar... will soak overnight, and then try to remove the bolt tomorrow - sounds reasonable?
Edit: Seems like my local Home Depot doesn't have a 1/2 in T55 socket in stock... I imagine the answer is yes, but just to confirm, would a 3/8in drive breaker bar with a T55 socket be a good start?
Edit: Seems like my local Home Depot doesn't have a 1/2 in T55 socket in stock... I imagine the answer is yes, but just to confirm, would a 3/8in drive breaker bar with a T55 socket be a good start?
#9
I'm going to start by picking up some Liquid Wrench from HD to soak the uncooperative bolt, along with picking up a 1/2in T55 bit, and a breaker bar... will soak overnight, and then try to remove the bolt tomorrow - sounds reasonable?
Edit: Seems like my local Home Depot doesn't have a 1/2 in T55 socket in stock... I imagine the answer is yes, but just to confirm, would a 3/8in drive breaker bar with a T55 socket be a good start?
Edit: Seems like my local Home Depot doesn't have a 1/2 in T55 socket in stock... I imagine the answer is yes, but just to confirm, would a 3/8in drive breaker bar with a T55 socket be a good start?
The following users liked this post:
LargePuppy (05-04-2020)
The following users liked this post:
LargePuppy (05-04-2020)
#11
Thank you all! As always, you're all most helpful
I found an Advanced Auto that's close by, aaaand they even have a 25% off coupon code - will try to hop over there once these conference calls wrap up... much appreciated!
I found an Advanced Auto that's close by, aaaand they even have a 25% off coupon code - will try to hop over there once these conference calls wrap up... much appreciated!
#12
I've found that a 1/2 to 3/8 drive converter socket (this will ensure you dont break the 3/8 ratchet which is much more then the socket) is always useful in my tool box. I have a few 3/8's to 1/4 1/2 to 1/4 and many of them as they can sometimes be sacrificial.
#13
ive done the suspension twice on my 991, first springs than coilovers. you have to remove/loosen that giant skinny nut. its also very thin so you have to watch out for rounding off the edges. the torx side, i just used a ratchet and torx bit to just hold it and used an impact gun on the nut side.
#14
Would you happen to know what size the nut is? Want to pick up the socket if I don't have it (largest I have is 22mm)
ive done the suspension twice on my 991, first springs than coilovers. you have to remove/loosen that giant skinny nut. its also very thin so you have to watch out for rounding off the edges. the torx side, i just used a ratchet and torx bit to just hold it and used an impact gun on the nut side.
#15
Good luck getting everything aligned back and in place once you have the new springs on the strut.... that was an epic pain in the a** and reason enough to just leave these cars stock. That and, lowering with springs only causes the suspension geometry to be considerably out of spec and proper alignment impossible without new adjustable parts. I assume this is the fronts? which are considerably easier than the rears. In all honesty, stop now while you're ahead and return the springs. The 991 is actually really fine from factory.
But if you must continue, you should use an impact on the nut while using the T55 to hold the shaft.
Getting it all to line up again, without a lift where the vehicle is at standing height, is damn near impossible.
But if you must continue, you should use an impact on the nut while using the T55 to hold the shaft.
Getting it all to line up again, without a lift where the vehicle is at standing height, is damn near impossible.