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Unit is well packaged and quite a bit smaller than my CTEK. The unit is a direct plug-in, with no 110VAC cord. I ordered the additional 10 foot extension. I confirmed the CTEK comfort connect WILL NOT interface with the NOCO X-connect, for sure.)
I opted to attach the NOCO pigtails directly to the battery (2xM6x1.00 stainless steel nuts) posts, on either side (10mm box end). The NOCO pigtail comes with a pair of alligator (or are they crocodile? ) clips. The clips remove from the pigtails with a 3mm hex head screw, revealing pre-attached lugs, with holes that match the battery posts (a nice touch). (The CTEK pigtail battery lugs are quite a bit larger than the battery posts on my car, which is another reason I never mounted it direct.) The NOCO pigtail is also a bit longer than the CTEK pigtail, and so I was able to route it past the installed plastic frunk inner cover and up to the location external to the car with the frunk closed, near the passenger side wiper arm area.
I then plugged it in, selected "AGM", locked the car, and let it run. Based on my on-board Voltmeter plugged into the 12VDC center port, it started at 12.3V, then over about 5 minutes the voltage climbed to 12.5V. Somewhere around here the car turned off the center port 12VDC, which is different than what happened when the CTEK plugged in (must be the fact I was direct connect to the battery with the NOCO and plugged into the glove box port with the CTEK.) Anyway, the NOCO is now showing "AGM" and a slowly pulsing red light (battery on charge, less than 75%.)
Will see how it goes.
Subjectively the fit and finish of the NOCO unit is fine; I'm a retired EE in the Aerospace/Defense sector and am used to dealing with parts for .mil and international programs. Obviously I haven't opened up the unit to see what components NOCO specified, vs. the CTEK. The box is labeled Made in China. The company HQ is in the USA but one suspects like many things, is manufactured off shore. It is pure speculation but the NOCO unit, being smaller, may also be designed with greater use of e.g. Silicon Controlled Rectifiers or other digital circuitry. Seemed like when I took the CTEK apart, I saw some fairly large wound coils (inductors) on the single circuit board, which might account for why it got so hot when it was charging. I will emphasize this is idle speculation.
Overall, since the NOCO:
- cost me $30 vs. $54
- has a longer pigtail and removeable lugs that match the Banner AGM battery posts in my car
- Is physically smaller
- runs cooler
- advertises a three year warranty (untested) vs. the five year worthless warranty (CTEK USA never responded to 3 warranty contacts after mine failed)
...and, lastly, appears to work (), I would say that this is a better option than the CTEK, if it keeps working.
Just a quick update and a final remark about the NOCO Genius 1: The charge reached "full" sometime last night. When I shut down the garage it had switched to a pulsing green light. I would guess it took about 8 hours, plus or minus, to get to full charge (I have a stock OEM Banner 80 Ah AGM Battery). I had driven the car Friday to go back and forth to work, but nothing that week, as I only went in Friday.
The last feature I wanted to mention was that the NOCO unit 'remembers' the previous mode it was in, if 110VAC is removed then reapplied. So if for example, you had your car on charge, and had power go out in your house, and later came back on, charging would resume. With the CTEK, it would always wake up in 'standby', and had to be manually switched to "AGM". Which I think is a plus for the NOCO.
Since things are working out, I'll probably go into the frunk today to Ty-Wrap the NOCO pigtail on the battery bracket a bit more securely so it's not flopping around so much. Pretty happy with it, and would highly recommend the NOCO vs. the CTEK based on my experience.
You should not use a standard battery tender meant for lead/acid batteries on a lithium ion battery, as they're unable to read state of charge for them. The result may be overcharging and Kaboom. CTEK and others have a dedicated lithium ion tender available.
Correct, I was speaking of using the battery tender for lead acid batteries-not the lithium. I purchased the optimate for the lithium and I am not satisfied with it compared to how the lead/acid maintainers work on the lead/acid batteries.
Ohhhh....I get it. And the little bouncy thing is cute. I prefer to stay on point and cover the topic at hand with my experience and listen to the experience of others.
If the $10 difference in price between the $20 Amazon unit you speak of and the $30 Noco causes you heartburn, then yes, by all means, buy the $20 model. Whatever floats your boat.
Last edited by Upscale Audio; 05-04-2020 at 10:44 AM.
Correct, I was speaking of using the battery tender for lead acid batteries-not the lithium. I purchased the optimate for the lithium and I am not satisfied with it compared to how the lead/acid maintainers work on the lead/acid batteries.
And the Optimate was the Lithium-specific model? What was wrong with it? I'm trying the Optimate 4 "Turbo" desulphating now on one of my Ducatis as I think it may be getting to the end of the line.. I don't hold out much hope though.
Going on vacation & car will be stored for about 3 weeks. Would my car require a battery tender for only 3 weeks away? I’ve always gone by a one month rule with no issues.
When I leave mine I always plug it in. Who knows with Covid if I might get locked down and not get back to the car for months. This way I dont have to worry.
Going on vacation & car will be stored for about 3 weeks. Would my car require a battery tender for only 3 weeks away? I’ve always gone by a one month rule with no issues.
I leave mine plugged in always. I have a very, very long extension cord that allows me this freedom. Technically I don't even need a battery due to my charging diligence but it gives me peace of mind to leave it in there.
Going on vacation & car will be stored for about 3 weeks. Would my car require a battery tender for only 3 weeks away? I’ve always gone by a one month rule with no issues.
That would be a waste of time, effort and electricity.
05-02-2020, 12:48 PM
) clips. The clips remove from the pigtails with a 3mm hex head screw, revealing pre-attached lugs, with holes that match the battery posts (a nice touch). (The CTEK pigtail battery lugs are quite a bit larger than the battery posts on my car, which is another reason I never mounted it direct.) The NOCO pigtail is also a bit longer than the CTEK pigtail, and so I was able to route it past the installed plastic frunk inner cover and up to the location external to the car with the frunk closed, near the passenger side wiper arm area.
