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Also, one other thing I didn't understand about the leveling module instructions: "After connecting your three can lines (can crash, can private 1, can private 2) ..." Where are those two private lines coming from? In an earlier step, the passenger headlight's CAN crash low + high wires are connected to the leveling module. Those are the only two I recall being mentioned. Any guidance would be much appreciated! I'm so close to making this project happen (famous last words hah).
Can private 1 and 2 come from the leveling module and run exclusively to the 2 headlights, can crash is a shared CANbus line that goes back to the can gateway. One twisted pair of wire must be run from the leveling module to each headlight for the can private lines. It doesn't look like your car has can crash running to the headlights (this must be only for 991 or maybe regular PDLS), so you'll need to tap it off from somewhere else, perhaps the wiring loom that runs in the frunk. Since it's not installed on your old lights, the CAN crash line is only otherwise used by the Acc Control Unit in the front of the car; if you do not have that, you have to tap it from the CAN gateway (Can low = Pin 7 Orange w/ Brown stripe, Can high = Pin 17, Orange w/ Blue stripe).
I'm not sure how different your car is, but the wiring info I have is only for MY17 718s and shows a 14pin connector for the xenon lights. Judging by the wiring color / position, it looks like you might not have to alter the connector too much.
The white/black wire is for a lift magnet, you don't need that on the PDLS+ lights. You can leave this since there appears to be no pin present on the mating connector on the LED headlight housing.
You'll have to run the CAN private wires to pos. 2/3.
You'll also have to run a wire from your fuse box (Row D/A16) for Term 15.
The "Ground High Beam" appears to be unused on the PDLS+ for 718, so move that to pin 8, since it is probably shared.
You also have to tap power for the leveling unit, but other than that I believe this is enough to get the headlights functioning. If you want the adaptive high beam, you'll need a new windshield and camera unit.
Absolutely amazing response!! You're an incredible asset to the community.
One clarification: So, I apparently have Homelink (Porsche says it's standard on a MY2019 718 GTS), so if that Homelink wire is also present in the frunk, I guess I can use it for TERM 15 on the leveling module, like you describe in the "Finish leveling module" step. In your response above, you mention also having to power the leveling module itself. That is a distinct step, correct? I'll need to tap a 12v, ignition switched wire in the fuse box?
By the way, was there anything special you had to do to remove the carpeting from the frunk? Just remove plastic trim and pull...?
Last edited by martopoulos; 02-23-2020 at 06:54 AM.
Absolutely amazing response!! You're an incredible asset to the community.
One clarification: So, I apparently have Homelink (Porsche says it's standard on a MY2019 718 GTS), so if that Homelink wire is also present in the frunk, I guess I can use it for TERM 15 on the leveling module, like you describe in the "Finish leveling module" step. In your response above, you mention also having to power the leveling module itself. That is a distinct step, correct? I'll need to tap a 12v, ignition switched wire in the fuse box?
By the way, to was there anything special you had to do to remove the carpeting from the frunk? Just remove plastic trim and pull...?
Yeah you can tap your homelink power for the leveling module. Since you don't currently have term 15 running to your lights, you also need to add 1 wire to each side using the appropriate fusebox position (check your owner's manual), if you tap all of it into the homelink power wire, you may blow the fuse.
Remove the gasket around the frunk, remove the ejector handle assembly, remove the light on the opposite side, then just yank the carpeted liner out. It should come off in two pieces.
Yeah you can tap your homelink power for the leveling module. Since you don't currently have term 15 running to your lights, you also need to add 1 wire to each side using the appropriate fusebox position (check your owner's manual), if you tap all of it into the homelink power wire, you may blow the fuse.
Remove the gasket around the frunk, remove the ejector handle assembly, remove the light on the opposite side, then just yank the carpeted liner out. It should come off in two pieces.
Got it, thanks!
Dumb question: so when you use twisted pair wiring, you're untwisting at both ends, right? It looks like your CAN wires in the headlight connector are from an untwisted TP, anyway. Same for the crimped ends wired into the leveling module?
Also, when running new wires from the CAN gateway, what's the easiest route back to the frunk? Would it be the same route as the firewall hole that you puncture and reseal in one of your steps?
Has anyone brought this guide to a shop and asked them to do the swap? Would obviously cost more but I'm not equipped to do this type of work. Very curious and interested.
Has anyone brought this guide to a shop and asked them to do the swap? Would obviously cost more but I'm not equipped to do this type of work. Very curious and interested.
There's no way a shop would do this based on a forum post. Only way I could see it is if you sign some kind of waiver in case **** goes wrong.
That said, I will update people if I'm successful. If I can do it, anyone can.
Last edited by martopoulos; 02-23-2020 at 06:55 AM.
@chris2 When you say the headlights won't work properly before coding, do you mean they won't light up at all or they'll just be a little screwy? For the coding step, I'll have to go to a shop, but if I can get the headlights to do something, thenthat would be a bit more reassuring...
This is the craziest project I've ever attempted lol
Wiring... DONE! I failed to find a crimp tool to handle the smaller of the two types of MQS terminals used in this project, so I made do with a solder, something I'd never done before. The 12014254 Weatherpack Crimp Tool (Amazon) handled the larger MQS terminals like a champ, though.
My Chinese hacked PIWIS II is here and the body shop is finally wrapping up their part, then it's my turn. I'm feeling pretty good about the wiring, but nervous about the coding section, to be honest. Total black box, and I'm hoping the fact that my car is a MY2019 doesn't cause problems (the tool can definitely communicate with the car, at least).
Hi everyone. Fantastic post! Would this work on a Panamera?
In theory, yes, with some considerable adaptation for your specific setup, as most of the modules, etc. are the same. However, I attempted this on a 718 with base lights (which is closer to a 911's setup than a Panamera, imo) and cannot get past a PIWIS programming error ("No relevant programming rules found for left LED headlight control module"), so right now I'm stuck with an error and basic functionality on only the driver-side light, unfortunately. Neither a dealer nor a rather smart indie tech (who formerly worked for a Porsche dealership) was able to get past the error. In the end, I may have to undo about 30 hours of work and try to sell $5000 worth of hardware at a steep loss. So, yeah, I don't recommend you be the one to try it first for your model car. :/
In theory, yes, with some considerable adaptation for your specific setup, as most of the modules, etc. are the same. However, I attempted this on a 718 with base lights (which is closer to a 911's setup than a Panamera, imo) and cannot get past a PIWIS programming error ("No relevant programming rules found for left LED headlight control module"), so right now I'm stuck with an error and basic functionality on only the driver-side light, unfortunately. Neither a dealer nor a rather smart indie tech (who formerly worked for a Porsche dealership) was able to get past the error. In the end, I may have to undo about 30 hours of work and try to sell $5000 worth of hardware at a steep loss. So, yeah, I don't recommend you be the one to try it first for your model car. :/
Thanks for the answer. I tried installing the headlights without modifications and so far what’s not working is the high beams. They can’t be turned on. Also the side markers in the bumper are showing a fault after 3 blinks. They work fine for 3 blinks...
My car, 2011, had Pdls from factory and I installed Pdls+ Led highlights from 2014.
Thanks for the answer. I tried installing the headlights without modifications and so far what’s not working is the high beams. They can’t be turned on. Also the side markers in the bumper are showing a fault after 3 blinks. They work fine for 3 blinks...
My car, 2011, had Pdls from factory and I installed Pdls+ Led highlights from 2014.
I also have the high beam issue. Won't turn on even on the driver's side, where low beam and the LED DRLs are actually functional. That's not surprising, though, given I haven't successfully recoded with PIWIS, by far the most frustrating part, in that it's a total black box without any useful documentation. I haven't had any sidemarker issues , though. Must be wired differently on Panameras.
This Sunday, I'm renting another 718 that actually came with LEDs from the factory. I'll be trying to copy the data / config from that car's control modules to mine. If that doesn't work , I'm pretty screwed. The only other thing I thought of was trying to hard wire the LED DRLs to ignition switched power, bypassing the rear body control module that they're currently connected to, and accepting that there will be an error I can never suppress.
I also have the high beam issue. Won't turn on even on the driver's side, where low beam and the LED DRLs are actually functional. That's not surprising, though, given I haven't successfully recoded with PIWIS, by far the most frustrating part, in that it's a total black box without any useful documentation. I haven't had any sidemarker issues , though. Must be wired differently on Panameras.
This Sunday, I'm renting another 718 that actually came with LEDs from the factory. I'll be trying to copy the data / config from that car's control modules to mine. If that doesn't work , I'm pretty screwed. The only other thing I thought of was trying to hard wire the LED DRLs to ignition switched power, bypassing the rear body control module that they're currently connected to, and accepting that there will be an error I can never suppress.
So, it didn't work, but discovered some interesting information. Here is a screenshot from the working Cayman with LED headlights:
On mine, the "Porsche Part Number" column value is blank (-) for both Left lamp igniter and Left light adjustment control unit. I have no idea why at the moment, but it could very well be the cause of the "No relevant programming rules for left headlight control module" error. That is to say, no rules can be found because it doesn't actually detect either of those two modules. I thought I might have a defective module on that side, but then realized neither modules are detected on that side, so there's no way that's what's up. Also, FWIW, there is a warning symbol on the first row under the DTC column, but I don't see any obvious way of getting more info on it. I'm gonna bring my car back to an indie tech who is a Porsche-pro to see if he can figure out why those modules are not detected. Not optimistic, but pretty much out of options at this point other than hardwiring the Daytime Running Light wires to an ignition-switched source and putting up with an error.
02-07-2020, 05:49 PM
