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@andy2111 you either have a background in car wiring or ***** of steel. I have an issue with my backup camera not getting a signal (different head unit than what you have) and would never dream of doing what you are attempting.
@andy2111 you either have a background in car wiring or ***** of steel. I have an issue with my backup camera not getting a signal (different head unit than what you have) and would never dream of doing what you are attempting.
Good for you. Best of luck!
I think he has BOS!
I was thinking about your reverse camera issue the other day. IIRC the problem is that the HU isn't receiving the required 12v on the trigger wire? Have you thought about connecting a wire from the reverse light to the trigger wire? The trigger wire won't care where the 12v comes from - as soon as it goes hot, it will trigger the HU to switch to the camera input. I think this experiment could be classed as BOMS (***** of mild steel) as it is non-destructive, non-invasive and 100% reversible.
You could try it out by getting a long piece of wire, temporarily hooking it to the reverse light wire with the other end to the trigger wire, and see what happens.
I was thinking about your reverse camera issue the other day. IIRC the problem is that the HU isn't receiving the required 12v on the trigger wire? Have you thought about connecting a wire from the reverse light to the trigger wire? The trigger wire won't care where the 12v comes from - as soon as it goes hot, it will trigger the HU to switch to the camera input. I think this experiment could be classed as BOMS (***** of mild steel) as it is non-destructive, non-invasive and 100% reversible.
You could try it out by getting a long piece of wire, temporarily hooking it to the reverse light wire with the other end to the trigger wire, and see what happens.
LOL.
I plan to revisit my situation in a few weeks. Fingers crossed. Stay tuned.
Still waiting for my various cables to arrive, but I now realise that my idea will only work if the speakers have a removable block inside the quadlock like this
I had assumed they were all removable until I saw some pics where the speaker block is a fixed part of the quadlock moulding, in which case the individual wires would have to be extracted from the quadlock.
It's too dark to check the car now so it'll have to wait for the weekend - fingers crossed!
I'm now just a voyeur on this thread, but I continue trying to read these AndroidAuto/CarPlay retrofit threads because I am in awe of the amount of DIY effort and trouble-shooting some folks are putting into this. It does make my head hurt, and I have no clue what most of you super geeks are talking about, but I can't stop following.
I did do the Mr12Volt solution because I wanted to retain all my PCM functions, keep things OEM, and I'm quite happy with it, but what some of you guys are doing with these aftermarket HUs and with virtually no vendor support is quite impressive.
Ha ha, thanks Foosh - what could possibly go wrong when you're amateurishly meddling with a beautifully crafted Porsche!
If I do get it working, there's still a chance of interference from the cellphone/bluetooth (I get an old school 'modem buzz' when the HU is connected to my phone to use the data connection), so I might also try to add a ground loop isolator
And then I need to figure out how to package it all tidily along with the TPMS unit and DAB radio - it's lucky the Android HUs are so slim as I'll need a lot of the spare space for everything and then to pack or wrap it to stop it rattling
Still waiting for my various cables to arrive, but I now realise that my idea will only work if the speakers have a removable block inside the quadlock like this
I had assumed they were all removable until I saw some pics where the speaker block is a fixed part of the quadlock moulding, in which case the individual wires would have to be extracted from the quadlock.
It's too dark to check the car now so it'll have to wait for the weekend - fingers crossed!
Can you not de-pin the connector block and then connect the pins directly to either the little doozies I showed above, or by directly soldering them? You're supposed to use a de-pinning tool (available from Amazon etc), but I have found I can just winkle them out with a pic, or sometimes just by pulling on them. Sorry I just read what you wrote instead of what I thought you wrote Yes, you can extract the individual wires (de-pin them). It's straightforward and reversible if required.
I'm now just a voyeur on this thread, but I continue trying to read these AndroidAuto/CarPlay retrofit threads because I am in awe of the amount of DIY effort and trouble-shooting some folks are putting into this. It does make my head hurt, and I have no clue what most of you super geeks are talking about, but I can't stop following.
I did do the Mr12Volt solution because I wanted to retain all my PCM functions, keep things OEM, and I'm quite happy with it, but what some of you guys are doing with these aftermarket HUs and with virtually no vendor support is quite impressive.
Bravo, and keep up the tenacity!!
Hey Foosh! The strange thing is that Andy, Chuck and I (and maybe several more) have what is to all intents and purposes the same HU, but bought from different vendors. The one I got for my wife's Cayman has had zero issues, other than the reported 'dimming issue', and even there, on my wife's car it is only the high beam light that caused a problem. I've had no speaker hiss, no reverse camera problems, no interference from anything or even none of the other reported issues. Either I have been very lucky, or the different sellers are doing more than just rebadging these units, with maybe different firmware, hardware, software or whatever. On the visible parts of the units, they all look identical, but they have different launchers and maybe different versions of Android (mine reports Android 12). There could also be differences between our cars as well I guess. Like you, I am full of admiration of the patient perseverance of the guys in this thread in trying to identify the causes of the various issues. Fingers crossed for good results, which will surely help others.
Same here: installing my HU was quick and easy. And putting aside the brightness control issue that seems to be common to all the versions of this unit, everything is working flawlessly.
No hiss, no connections issues, sound is really great (I have Bose) as it is great to have all the Android goodies that I have installed.
The only “tweaking” that I had to do was for the front camera because I wanted to access it differently from how it was designed by the HU developers. But I was able to customize it the way I want (access the front camera outside from the native Home Launcher). The ability to do this change speaks about the versatility of this unit and the benefits to have access to a full Android implementation.
I’m trying to help with the brightness issue because even if not an issue for my old eyes, I’m curious of what is going on and I'm happy to contribute any way I can to the great pioneering effort by people like Andy, ZedZed and others in this forum. Without people trying to walk outside the known tracks, great things will not happen @andy2111 Agree with "beautifully crafted" cars in general but some parts suck... Like the multimedia part
Those with this HU may already have figured this out but if you find the writing on the screen to be too small, you can change "Screen Density" in the "Factory", "UI Setting" to "320" and all the Android menus will become larger and be easier to select. So far, it looks like this change do not impact the screen size of the Android applications themselves.
@Chuck245 I did try those settings a while ago as I assumed they would allow me to either switch off or reduce the output level of the audio. From memory, the changed setting didnt "save" and so didn't appear to do anything. But it does seem such a logical setting that I will try again in case it was user error on my part.
On another topic, I have a selection of different control ***** due to arrive from China in the next 2 weeks, so we'll see if we can get a slightly more factory aesthetic going on! Note the user error where some only come in single packs, so if I like them I'll have to order another!
Looks like I do have the removable 8 pin audio connector in my quadlock. That means I can pop the whole block out and then use the brown connection (in my pic above) so no need to de-pin the block, it should plug and play
But... in order to check the quadlock I had to disconnect it, so the HU did a cold restart and then I got into my boot loop problem, the same problem as when I updated to the "old" MCU version. I have a feeling that it may do this now on every cold restart. Again I tried various combos of powering off the ignition, removing the quadlock to force a reset, pressing the little reset button and after about 15 mins trying it booted up. I'm hesitant to try the power amp settings @Chuck245 mentioned because they ask for a reboot in order to apply them.
I also got an automated message from the HU seller informing me of their holiday in China from 1st to 17th Feb, so I doubt I'll hear anything for a while. I did say that I'd want a refund if they can't fix the brightness issue..
TBH I will very likely lose patience and just order another unit from Erisin because even if the brightness issue is fixed, I have stuffed up the MCU and daren't restart the HU and there is no online update to get me back to the latest version. The the chances of support helping appear negligable, so maybe I put this one down to experience and buy from Erisin where I know any issues will at least be looked into..
[EDIT] - yep, I got impatient and just ordered a new HU from Erisin. I'm having great fun playing around and want to continue, but I think I have crippled my unit and can't reboot it which is not a workable solution. I have no confidence in support helping me, particularly with the self-inflicted MCU issue, so let's see how I get on with the new unit and Erisin support, if needed. I will likely still need my homemade audio harness and the new ***** are on the way too!
@andy2111 sorry to hear that your boot issue still plaguing you. Looks like you have tried everything that comes to mind. If you have removed everything connected to the HU except the quadlock and the antennas, the issue is most likely like the one I have with leaving USB drives plugged while rebooting but not rooted on the same cause. You may already have tried it but there is a possibly “nuclear option” in the updates screen in the form of the restore factory settings button. May or may not work to solve your issue. May also brick your unit for good as we do not know what the needed working configuration is to be restored.
Please keep us updated on the radio buttons that you ordered. They look like a nice addition.
@andy2111 My apologies if you have already posted this information but regarding the audio hiss, did you try the "Power amplifier setting"?
I am not entirely certain, but I suspect that setting is there to enable/disable the optical out port. These units have a Toslink output on the back to allow a digital to digital connection to an amp that supports this via an optical input. Nonetheless, it's worth trying your suggestion as I won't do any harm and could be the answer. The one I am not sure about is 'none' - either it's digital or analog, so what's 'none'?
01-29-2024, 10:23 AM
Yes, you can extract the individual wires (de-pin them). It's straightforward and reversible if required.
