Orthojoe's track build journal
#1696
Rennlist Member
I always try to switch side to side.
Michelin was on track with us in Europe and refused to do it because they said the tire has a great risk of failing once you counter rotate after heat cycles.
A way to sell more tires or truth?
On the RS rears last 2-3 days fronts twice as long.
Michelin was on track with us in Europe and refused to do it because they said the tire has a great risk of failing once you counter rotate after heat cycles.
A way to sell more tires or truth?
On the RS rears last 2-3 days fronts twice as long.
#1697
Addict
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Understood, Peter, I read that post, as well as the subsequent discussion here, but is this some kind of secret the Michelin engineers are keeping to themselves? Seems to me it would represent quite a liability for Michelin to not advise owners about it if it is true. Is it in any of their written and published advisories? If so, I can't find it, and I've been through all the technical material I could dig up on their website since reading about your experience. It's quite disconcerting.
TT
TT
#1698
Rennlist Member
joe -
Every track day or so I add 1/2 qt 0-40 Mobil 1. If the GT3 burns that much does it make sense to change the oil more frequently than annually? Although I haven't had the car for 1 year yet, I expect to only drive it maybe 2500 miles per year.
Thanks.
Every track day or so I add 1/2 qt 0-40 Mobil 1. If the GT3 burns that much does it make sense to change the oil more frequently than annually? Although I haven't had the car for 1 year yet, I expect to only drive it maybe 2500 miles per year.
Thanks.
#1699
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
That sounds about right. As you put more miles on the car, the car will burn less oil. Actually, if you think about it, the more oil it burns, the less frequently you need to change oil because you are adding new oil to replace what was burned away. If you're only doing 2500 miles total a year, I'd just change it once a year.
#1700
Had read through the thread's discussion of the Porsche vs Ferrari specs on the PSC2s...
I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.
Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.
But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.
Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.
Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.
But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.
Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
#1701
Rennlist Member
Had read through the thread's discussion of the Porsche vs Ferrari specs on the PSC2s...
I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.
Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.
But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.
Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.
Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.
But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.
Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
#1702
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by krobertson
Had read through the thread's discussion of the Porsche vs Ferrari specs on the PSC2s...
I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.
Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.
But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.
Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
I just recently ordered a set of PSC2 N0 specs so just so I'd have them when the time came, but it looks like I was shipped K1 Ferrari rears. I did a double take when I saw the packaging slip and double checked my order was for N0.
Called up the company (a fairly well know Bay Area performance tire retailer) and left them a message. For one, there is a price difference between the two, so annoyed by that.
But the other part I am unsure of is whether or not I should keep the K1s or send them back and try to get N0 rears. The retailer no longer has N0 rears online, but Tire Rack does.
Any opinions? Wear wise, fronts wear faster, but grip wise, the K1s reportedly aren't as good.
#1704
Further to the ESC discussion, I was surprised to see how different the intervention is between the 991TT and my 991 GT3 (my TT was a 2014 and my GT3 is a 2016 so it's possible the newer turbos have evolved). I got so much ESC activation on the track in the TTS that I turned it off in order to avoid premature brake wear. Driving the same style and line in the GT3 I get virtually zero ESC engagement. I'm not surprised that the nanny level would be turned up in the more "civil" TT but I was quite surprised by how much.
#1706
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PhilT3
hey Joe.... have you adjusted your sway bars from stock settings?
#1707
I have, but it doesn't matter what I've done. Those bars are supposed to allow you to adjust for how YOU feel the car is behaving. Does it over or understeer? At corner entry or exit? That is what matters, because there are too many variables to assume what that works for me will work for you.
#1708
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PhilT3
Yes, I understand that. I was merely curious. Thanks anyway.
Keep in mind that there are some really good drivers here who have the totally opposite sway bar settings that I do. Alignment, parts, track, driver, all play a role
Last edited by orthojoe; 06-29-2016 at 01:21 AM.
#1709
It's in the thread. Front full stiff and rear full soft. You never answered my question. I'm not trying to be a smart *** (this time). I'm trying to help. Tell me how what you feel the car is doing and tell me what your sway bar and alignment settings are and I can suggest a change
Keep in mind that there are some really good drivers here who have the totally opposite sway bar settings that I do. Alignment, parts, track, driver, all play a role
Keep in mind that there are some really good drivers here who have the totally opposite sway bar settings that I do. Alignment, parts, track, driver, all play a role
I appreciate your help.
#1710
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by PhilT3
Not sure just yet. I feel I could use a little less body roll and more turn in. Haven't pushed enough to feel oversteer. So I don't believe i'm ready to make any changes. I was just curious to see what YOU are doing. All good bud.
I appreciate your help.
I appreciate your help.