1st time CL change
02-23-2015, 02:45 AM
#91
Race Director
Thread Starter
Thought I share my experience with my first CL change. I followed the instructions from Mike and Jeff to perform CL change this weekend on my 991 Turbo S. This is the first time the wheels are removed in 12k miles of back mountain road driving. Initially, I couldn't get the Precision Instruments breaker bar to budge the CL nut. I had to buy a 5' long and 1" diameter galvanized steel pipe from Home Depot to place over the Precision Instruments ratchet head to break the CL nut. The Porsche manual noted large torque is required to break the nut if the wheel have not be removed in a long time. I guess 12k and 1 year is a long time.
The rest of the remove and install went as described by Mike and Jeff and pretty smoothly. I was able to use the Precision Instruments breaker bar on the torque, break, re-torque install step.
The rest of the remove and install went as described by Mike and Jeff and pretty smoothly. I was able to use the Precision Instruments breaker bar on the torque, break, re-torque install step.
I wonder if it makes sense to loosen, check, and re-torque everything a couple of times a year to help avoid any problems with removal. Or, like you did, just buy a bigger bar....
02-23-2015, 04:24 PM
#92
Rennlist Member
I think the periodic loosen/lube/check/re-torque mode would be the better choice. A 5 ft. long pipe added to the 40" PI breaker bar is going to put a large load on the ratchet mechanism in the wrench. With an 18" overlap of the pipe/bar and a 200 lb force applied you'd generate 1300 ft./lb. on the ratchet. Joe would have to start eating a lot of ice cream to hit that number.
02-23-2015, 05:08 PM
#93
Instructor
Thanks for that follow-up needspeed. Did the conical face of the CL screws have less grease on them than you expected? I had no problems removing the wheels with the 40" bar, and I don't think the fronts had been removed since the car was new so it was almost 12 months, but I had less than half the miles on my car that you had.
I wonder if it makes sense to loosen, check, and re-torque everything a couple of times a year to help avoid any problems with removal. Or, like you did, just buy a bigger bar....
I wonder if it makes sense to loosen, check, and re-torque everything a couple of times a year to help avoid any problems with removal. Or, like you did, just buy a bigger bar....
There are some potential problems I spotted on the nipples that guide the wheels I'll share when I get access to the photos.
02-23-2015, 05:56 PM
#94
Nordschleife Master
I think the periodic loosen/lube/check/re-torque mode would be the better choice. A 5 ft. long pipe added to the 40" PI breaker bar is going to put a large load on the ratchet mechanism in the wrench. With an 18" overlap of the pipe/bar and a 200 lb force applied you'd generate 1300 ft./lb. on the ratchet. Joe would have to start eating a lot of ice cream to hit that number.
02-23-2015, 06:57 PM
#95
Race Director
Thread Starter
I think the periodic loosen/lube/check/re-torque mode would be the better choice. A 5 ft. long pipe added to the 40" PI breaker bar is going to put a large load on the ratchet mechanism in the wrench. With an 18" overlap of the pipe/bar and a 200 lb force applied you'd generate 1300 ft./lb. on the ratchet. Joe would have to start eating a lot of ice cream to hit that number.
03-17-2015, 07:44 PM
#97
Rennlist Member
It's 3/4"
03-18-2015, 01:45 AM
#98
Just a word of caution for those using the Precision Instrument Torque wrench. The handle mounts on the bar for either clockwise or counter clockwise rotation. If you get this wrong you could over torque your wheel nut.
03-19-2015, 10:25 PM
#99
Question:
Nice job documenting this process. Can you provide some info on the short ramp you are using. Manufacturer, rise and where you purchased them? Also curious where you found the detailed documentation on the CL system?
Thanks
Thanks