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1st time CL change

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Old 12-30-2014, 05:36 PM
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Mike in CA
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Default 1st time CL change

I've been anxious for months to try a CL wheel removal and I finally did, using the Precision Instruments torque wrench and breaker bar that I bought myself for Christmas. I'd been particularly interested as to whether the 40" breaker bar was going to be adequate for the job or whether I was going to need to acquire a longer length of pipe. I decided to do a rear wheel because I wouldn't have to fiddle with the brakes or chock the front wheels to keep them from turning. This was, after all, just an experiment; I really had no need to remove a wheel other than to satisfy my curiosity about the process.

As it turned out, removing a wheel was anti-climactic from a difficulty standpoint and was actually kind of fun, at least in my own garage. The Precision breaker bar worked just fine. I pulled up on the bar to loosen the central screw because I felt it would give me more control. It took a good bit of force but you don't need to be a gorilla. I'm 6'2" 190lbs and am...uhhh....a mature gentleman. If I can do it, some of you younger guys should have no difficulty either.

I was glad to have the Rennline centering tool as it made removing and replacing the wheel much easier, with less strain on my back and far less angst regarding the possibility of chipping a ceramic brake disk. I removed the wheel, examined the locking mechanism, applied a little more grease to the trapezoidal screw threads, the cylindrical portion of the hub, and the face of the screw. I did not disassemble the central screw as that procedure isn't mentioned in the manual and the tech docs state it's only necessary to do that if the screw is overly tight, loose, or cannot be torqued smoothly. When reassembling, I used the socket tool to start the screw by hand to prevent any possibility of cross-threading. As described in the manual, I tightened the screw to 600nm (443 ft/lbs), backed it off 1/4 turn, then re-torqued. The wrench gave a satisfying click and I was done.

There were no problems. I admit, wrenching with long heavy steel tools next to my beautiful GR paint job made me a little nervous but I just took care and my time. Speaking of time, I spent a lot of it double checking every step, running back in the house a couple of times to look at the docs, and taking a few pics. For a routine wheel change, without having to disassemble the central screw, and adding some extra time for the additional steps required to secure the front wheels, 10 minutes or so a wheel seems about right.

Bottom line, there are more precautions that must be observed compared to a 5 bolt wheel, but in your own garage the actual process of changing a CL isn't that big of a deal.

PS They aren't that informative, but I felt obligated to have pics. No pics, it didn't happen...
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Old 12-30-2014, 05:42 PM
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neanicu
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Good job Mike.

Old 12-30-2014, 05:50 PM
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Ducati1199
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No scuffing or marking of the the CL after use with the breaker bar and torque wrench?
Old 12-30-2014, 05:56 PM
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Gt3Fan
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You really bring some quality content to the forum, thank you for taking the time to do this, most helpful. I look forward to taking my CL's off shortly, same reason as you for now, curiosity, not need.
Old 12-30-2014, 06:08 PM
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911dev
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Thank you Mike. Very good to hear. I anticipate a trial run within the next few months.
Old 12-30-2014, 06:12 PM
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rockitman
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Well done mike. I take it you used an Irwin 24" spread clamp for the brake ?
Old 12-30-2014, 06:17 PM
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john weires
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Mike,

Another thoughtful post.

I noticed the rubber gloves. Hopefully no KY was involved............
Old 12-30-2014, 06:30 PM
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GrantG
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Originally Posted by rockitman
Well done mike. I take it you used an Irwin 24" spread clamp for the brake ?
He only did a rear wheel, so it's not necessary (both transmission and parking brake act on the rear axle).
Old 12-30-2014, 06:51 PM
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Mike in CA
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Thanks for the comments. Glad to be able to share the experience.

Originally Posted by Ducati1199
No scuffing or marking of the the CL after use with the breaker bar and torque wrench?
I'd wondered about that too. Screw off, screw tightened, screw loosened, screw retightened. 4 applications of the tool and no sign of any scuffing on the CL so far.

Originally Posted by rockitman
Well done mike. I take it you used an Irwin 24" spread clamp for the brake ?
Christian, Grant's correct; the clamp isn't needed for the rear wheels for the reasons he stated.

Originally Posted by john weires
Mike,

Another thoughtful post.

I noticed the rubber gloves. Hopefully no KY was involved............
lol. John, the Optimol grease is much messier than KY. Moreover, I highly recommend that no one ever get confused and use one in place of the other.
Old 12-30-2014, 07:01 PM
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Thanks again Mike. 6'-2" and 190 lbs is svelte in my book!
Old 12-30-2014, 07:03 PM
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SamFromTX
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Great job, as always. I have all those tools except the Rennline centering tool, which is a great idea. Unlike you, I have not had the courage to experiment yet. Thanks for your post.
Old 12-30-2014, 07:58 PM
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"a mature gentleman" LOL. Good job Mike and thank you
Old 12-30-2014, 07:59 PM
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kosmo
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Originally Posted by Ducati1199
No scuffing or marking of the the CL after use with the breaker bar and torque wrench?
a small piece of saran wrap or plastic shopping bag can reduce any scuffing
Old 12-30-2014, 08:18 PM
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Mike in CA
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Originally Posted by kosmo
a small piece of saran wrap or plastic shopping bag can reduce any scuffing
Great idea for next time!
Old 12-30-2014, 08:59 PM
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Thanks Mike! Great Job! I also now have all tools but the centering pin from Rennline which is on the way. My track wheels arrived today and will have a new set of cup 2's put on tomorrow. My first CL change will be this weekend hopefully!


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