Originally Posted by iphilips

There is no benefit from being the fastest down shifter, you are already braking which is what is actually modulating your speed. You want to be as smooth as butter on the down shift, so you don't change the dynamics of the car in the middle of the braking zone or leading into the corner - why b/c you may find your wing going into the wall vs your nose going through the corner.

So what is smoother? I'd argue conventional shifting (option B in my thread). brake, clutch in , shift down, blip + clutch out vs brake, blip, shift, clutch out. Why? b/c the closer in time you release the clutch at the "perfect" rev match the smoother it will be. Doing the blip earlier in time (before you move out of the gate) allows for more time for the engine RPM or gearbox RPM to go out of sync again.. waiting until the last possible moment (when the clutch comes out to blip) reduces that time period. Why is this time period important and should be small? B/c when you are braking the speed you wash off and the track dynamic may have changed from the last time you saw the corner. Maybe your brakes are hot, tires lacking grip, dirt/rubber on the track, another driver taking a different line. If you need to brake more, or less, the relationship between engine RPM and gearbox/drive train will be different from when you bliped while still in the previous gears gate.

So if your goal is butter smooth downshifts under hard braking and want to keep solid chassis balance then a) heel/toe "correctly" (brake, clutch in, shift down, blip and clutch out at the same time) or b) use auto-blip and let the computer do it for you or c) buy a PDK. If being smooth and having maximum car control is not important then do the NLDS (No Lift Down Shift) and deal with all the rev limiting and awkward comments from RL's about your technique. It really doesn't matter how many years you have driven MT, what cars you own and if you know how to double D a tractor .. it's about optimizing for the conditions that you want to be best in.

Personally I want the smoothest most controlled downshifts. Coming into turn 11 at Somona (the run out is tire and concrete wall less than 50 yards in front of you) at well over 100Mph I don't want to have to deal with an unsettled car b/c I wanted to blip before I shifted and then deal with the computer fighting against me (b/c even Porsche think you shouldn't do it - and well, they understand driving and engineering better than most of us). So I either heel/toe or auto-blip "correctly" and the car stays out the tires/wall.

Originally Posted by FourT6and2

I don't think these folks track. Not that there's anything wrong with that. But I'm guessing they just have a different driving style and like to free-rev the engine all the time for whatever reason. *shrug*. This car wasn't meant for that. You can't sit there and rev the engine to redline for people with their phones out or to let women on the street know you have big socks.

Originally Posted by iphilips

Wonder what they do in a PDK car then? Shift into neutral - rev - snap insta?. Perhaps that's why the 2/3RS has a "clutch" when you do both paddles in - it's for the C&C and insta crew?

I do get that not all people want to track - but hopefully they do realize they bought the track focused Porsche and are trying to use it for "creative" street driving.

I think there is a branding opportunity for Porsche here - "GT Lite". It's basically the GT cars you know and love with none of the track focused stuff ("hard" ride, noises, squealing brakes, MT transmissions). The GT "lite" series will actually have a higher MSRP as it caters for specific niche market "I want a race car but don't want to put up with the limitations of a race car". The first 992 GTL3 would be based on the Turbo S but just change out the engine to the NA 4.0, drop the AWD and put in the MT box from the T. I'm guessing this would sell like hot cakes - ADM is at least $50K.

Originally Posted by FourT6and2

They would also keep redline at 9K, but physically alter the tach to show redline at 6K. That way when you try to free-rev and it limits you, it would appear to be all the way to redline. Boom... no more people complaining about not being able to free-rev.

Originally Posted by carbondan

^ Gentlemen, please read my post above carefully.
I will quote the relevant part here again.
Please address this directly.

"The whole point of me talking about the free-revving while in gear thing was simply to demonstrate an exaggerated example of how the car chokes itself off it you're too early on the blip when downshifting. You guys are missing the point entirely. Try it on your car and you'll see there are different revisions in the coding."

Originally Posted by iphilips

One better, the tach is 100% synthetic and is computer controlled based on a) your insta likes b) RL comments c) localization to C&C. For an extra $289/year you can have Porsche link your Tinder account to your car, so if you are near a cute girl/boy it will automatically engage high RPM blip mode. There is also a built in cluster facing camera so you can export screenshots of your blipping directly to insta - no need to awkwardly hold the camera while driving and reving and insta and tindering at the same time. Finally, the scale on the tach will be in the ADM you paid, so red line is at $50K and idle will be at $0 ADM.

Originally Posted by carbondan

^ Gentlemen, please read my post above carefully.
I will quote the relevant part here again.
Please address this directly.

"The whole point of me talking about the free-revving while in gear thing was simply to demonstrate an exaggerated example of how the car chokes itself off it you're too early on the blip when downshifting. You guys are missing the point entirely. Try it on your car and you'll see there are different revisions in the coding."

Originally Posted by carbondan

Anyone in here who wants to have a grown up conversation, feel free to respond. We'll let the children play in the meantime.

Originally Posted by iphilips

I setup a poll on this so we can get to the bottom of the different approaches to shifting... https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...downshift.html

The bottom line is - do you think Porsche is reading RL and will they change the behavior of their MT system to accommodate your style of shifting. I highly doubt they will b/c my assertion is that you (and the handful of others on here) are in the minority and it's not worth the $$ and effort to redesign and then recall their fleet for MT's in the GT3. So other than complaining about it, what else can you you do? Perhaps lodge a complaint with PCNA or PAG? Or jump on the other Poll thread and voice your data (maybe you are the majority?)

Let's get some data first. Like I said nobody is debating that the car does what you and other say - can't argue with the facts. But we can argue about which techniques are compatible with the GT3 MT (obviously your technique isn't). I'm guessing there are only a handful of techniques that are compatible and yours is not.

Originally Posted by FourT6and2

I'm in the opposite camp. My GT3 6-speed drives incredibly well and I've never had an issue with the gearbox. Sport mode works flawlessly for me. And with it off, I can rev-match just fine all day long. But honestly, I drive with the sport mode on most of the time because hey... it's easier and it's faster than I will ever be.

Originally Posted by GrantG

If you decide you want to address the height of the gas pedal, Rennline makes some nice adjustable pedals....