CanadaRS

Still have a full Manthey KW suspension of my 991.1 GT3RS for sale
https://rennlist.com/forums/parts-ma...-1-gt3-rs.html

TRAKCAR

Does anyone have the setup numbers from the factory for my 991.2GT3RS?
Is there anything in the manual?

Anyone have a good starting point for Spa / Ring? I figure if it works there it ill work well enough everywhere.
Completely stock car, I guess on Dunlop or MPSC2.

tqevo

Going off of memory here but from what I remember (mine came with Cup2s):
Camber -1.7 F/R
Toe 0/0.2 F/R
Roll bars middle F/R
Caster I don't remember but I didn't have it changed
Cold pressures: 29/33

C4SGRPDK

caster should be around 9-9.5

TRAKCAR

Mr Purple is now all back to stock, probably will put Michelin Sport Plus tires on next time around.
All good at 36,000 miles. I will post the latest Blackstone numbers when I get it in.

A little update on the .2 GT3RS, just a starting point I guess.
@15,000 miles, about the typical 50% track use, I will change all filters, all oils, plugs and belts just to see how they held up.
Have not done Blackstone lab analysis the first few oil changes (Europe), but will start now.

Setup:
Miss the ST rotors so far, but bought second set, so will track with the same brakes.
Setup is still factory ride height and take, toe and camber.
Car came with - 1.5 Camber front and rear zero toe front and 2 mm in each side.
Will add -2.5 Camber rear, the Dunlops seem to want a bit more.

Dunlop VS Michelin on new car:
Michelin feels more crisp, quicker to warm up. But they give up. Once too hot.
Dunlop takes a couple laps to come in, feels a bit greasy and less precise, like light graining but overall faster, specially after lap 3 when the Michelin’s give up.
Dunlops move more, more warning they will let go.
I like the feel of Michelin better but Dunlops are faster longer and seem to last better.
Need to test two sets back to back at Sebring swapping wheels between cars.

Overall the new car is much faster.
First noticeable is front grip, so between RWS, EDiff, front geo, faster steering, there is no understeer so there is no reason to slam the front and stick the rear in the air like .1RS, add much more downforce and the car is just again easier to drive and fast.

No rubbing anywhere, great brake cooling, PDK is tuned much smarter, nicer, faster.
Car is much louder
Ride went from firm to punishing on bad roads. Biggest difference in the car.
If you want to cruise in comfort get the quieter softer .1RS for sure.

My Max GForce seem right in line with the .1RS:


No more oil overfill or under-fill idiot warnings..

Thats about it so far...

mdrums

Cool..when does car get to the USA? Are you going to use stock calipers with the ST rotors?

TRAKCAR

Mid August I guess. Just Ti pucks.

groundhog

The manual gives the same numbers for the GT3 and GT2RS

front axle overall toe-in +2+/-2
rear axle toe-in per wheel +10+/2
front axle camber -1.30 +/-3
rear axle camber -1.30+/- 3

No specific manual for the II GT3 RS

PS great thread

Tracked my RS for the first time yesterday on Cup 2 N2 - OEM set up:
(1) Front end grip is really noticeable
(2) Engine feels very strong up top
(3) PDK-S super dialled in (seems like it always is tho) - good relatively smooth changes (perfect in the wet )
(4) AERO on OEM setting worked well for this circuit - very big difference on a nasty compound L in to R with bump at the transition point (200kmh)
(5) Car responded to firm PASM setting on this track
(6) excellent under brakes very flat and linear - does not over dive (~1.75g - threshold lineal g)
(7) Very quick ~ 1 to 2s quicker per minute than current GT3
(8) Great corner speed (lat g ~ +/-1.75)
(9) Steering V accurate and precise - surprising amount of feedback - improves with pace
(10) Will provide data logs from my next session in two weeks (particularly interested in max lat g, yaw rate relative to corner speed)
(11) The performance seems seamless - e.g. at pace there is an amazing consistency in how the car behaves - this is, in my view, real technical excellence on show.

For me the most impressive accomplishments are around the suspension, moreso given the spring rates are double the outgoing model and the sway bars (anti roll bars) are a little softer. Lots of feel generated through the chassis and excellent balance delivering an almost a mid-engined feel.

Classic case of a spec sheet not telling the story.

TRAKCAR

^^ +100%.
What track did you go to? Specially at Spa the car was so much faster then the .1RS..

mdrums

groundhog

Hi Mike - see below from the handbook - note the apostrophe marks - so degrees and minutes (?)



Unfortunately not Spa (located down under) - its the ability of the car to carry very high corner speeds and then stay planted at high track speeds and then brake very true into corners. To me it feels like a track car set up, particularly when SPASM is on. The body control for a track capable road car is very good (this is an understatement) and you can feel (in detail) the car weight up the tires in a very progressive way. Transition body control and weight transfer is particularly strong, particularly at high speed - great aero plus great chassis.

This car has certainly exceeded my expectations

mdrums

So for rear axel toe of +10 ....I’m lost...always though rear toe was around .12 to .16 degrees....or somewhere around 2mm inward.....never used minutes to my alignment guy.

groundhog

Mike - I will get a check alignment before my next session and report back in (about two weeks). I think the manual is very opaque.

I read it this way e.g. for the rear toe

0.10 +/- 0.02 per wheel giving a max toe of +0.24 minutes (0.24 total rear toe) or in decimal degrees +0.166+/-0.03 per wheel

for the front toe I think its meant to be (total)

a maximum of +0.02 degrees and minutes +/- 0.02 or in decimal degrees +0.0166+/-0.016 per wheel

mdrums

Thanks much appreciated!

Mvez

That is correct. Minutes to degrees is a quick conversion. Think of it as a clock. 60' (minutes) = 1 degree.
1 minute = .0166 deg.
10 minutes = .166 deg.
15 minutes = .25 deg.

Stock toe is .167 deg each side.