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Cool thanks....what’s funny is so many hate Mobil 1, call it water and junk and so forth but yet your oil tests shows it works fine. I used Mobil 1 in my silver GTS and used Motul in my black GTS.
Ive been kicking back and forth about a bar and harness...not sure for as much as I track. Was about to get 2nd set of track wheels...Forgeline...but backed off. I’m procrastinating ;-)
Cool thanks....what’s funny is so many hate Mobil 1, cal,it water and junk but yet your oil tests shows it works fine. I used Mobil 1 in my silver GTS and used Motul in my black GTS.
Ive been kicking back and forth about a bar and harness...not sure for as much as I track. Was about to get 2nd set of track wheels...Forgeline...but backed off. I’m procrastinating ;-)
The Mobil 1 debate is funny - Subaru and Porsche recommend it for all their boxer engines. The most important thing is to change it regularly, particularly if you do a lot of track/HP time.
Get the the harness and Simpson Hybrid FHR - the latter is more comfortable than HANS and covers sideways movement - very important if you don't have "winged" seats.
Another option is a Simpson Hybrid S which is the only FHR compatible with a three point belt - 50% improvement in outcomes relative to a three point on its own (note the S). They are comfortable and light to.
Found these numbers in another thread courtesy of Stout and Porsche (for the RA record breaking GT3 RS and 2RS)
Alignment specs for the Guards Red GT2 RS, Lizard Green GT3 RS, and Lava Orange GT3 RS:
· Front camber: -2° · Rear camber -2,5° · Front toe: 0-+1‘ (per side) · Rear toe +10‘-12‘ (per side with 8mm shims 991 331 543 84 installed) · Re-connect anti-roll bars in the zero (center hole) position.
A very good friend of mine and former Euro touring car pro driver swears black and blue that the front should be around -2 and no more and the rears should be just over -2. I will dial mine in after the next event after which I'll be better able to assess times and wear relative to my driving style. Note I posted the factory numbers and as delivered numbers in a previous post (as measured).
What is the proper reference point to measure height?
This is where these setup numbers get misleading. There are defined measurement points, from the face of the bolts identified in these pictures to the ground. But oftentimes folks tuning street cars create their own references, resulting in setups being apples to oranges.
Case in point, the front measuring point is normally obscured by the undertray. For accurate measurement the tray needs to be removed or an egg-sized hole drilled. Then for two cars to be comparable they need the same spec tires at the same pressure (say 2.0bar +/- 0.1). Same level of fuel and driver ballast. Only then would you measure distance between bolt face and a flat patch.
Sounds complicated? It is!!! To talk about mm-accurate ride heights without going through the motion in detail will be garbage in garbage out...
With a car good out of the box like the RS, you'll get far more bang-for-buck with geometry setting. Alignment is something you can more more less copy from car to car. Ride height is more of a relative concept. Adjust front-to-rear rake to suit your particular preference during braking. The idea of "minimizing ride height" doesn't apply coz our cars need to run on public roads and there's no single practical target to minimize for (unless you just keep running one track!). Ignore what people say about aero coz none of our aero-beetles are particularly responsive to aero inputs (true up to and incl. the Cups...)
This is where these setup numbers get misleading. There are defined measurement points, from the face of the bolts identified in these pictures to the ground. But oftentimes folks tuning street cars create their own references, resulting in setups being apples to oranges.
Case in point, the front measuring point is normally obscured by the undertray. For accurate measurement the tray needs to be removed or an egg-sized hole drilled. Then for two cars to be comparable they need the same spec tires at the same pressure (say 2.0bar +/- 0.1). Same level of fuel and driver ballast. Only then would you measure distance between bolt face and a flat patch.
Sounds complicated? It is!!! To talk about mm-accurate ride heights without going through the motion in detail will be garbage in garbage out...
With a car good out of the box like the RS, you'll get far more bang-for-buck with geometry setting. Alignment is something you can more more less copy from car to car. Ride height is more of a relative concept. Adjust front-to-rear rake to suit your particular preference during braking. The idea of "minimizing ride height" doesn't apply coz our cars need to run on public roads and there's no single practical target to minimize for (unless you just keep running one track!). Ignore what people say about aero coz none of our aero-beetles are particularly responsive to aero inputs (true up to and incl. the Cups...)
Drive, tweak, enjoy and drive some more!!
Source: Carrera Cup Official Regs
You are right about all your explanation
I think that on the 991.1 rs document the indicated points to measure ride height are different from the cup ones (especially at the rear as otherwise it would not be around 270mm) but at the front there is the plastic in the way so you are right it could get an unprecise reading.
I think that on the 991.1 rs document the indicated points to measure ride height are different from the cup ones (especially at the rear as otherwise it would not be around 270mm) but at the front there is the plastic in the way so you are right it could get an unprecise reading.
The front measuring point for street cars is actually the black, rubber circles as shown in the pic above. This is accessible with all undertrays on, very easy to measure on your own driveway floor.
I finally got my ride height numbers as delivered by the factory and after 15,000 miles and 30+ track days the suspension is pretty well settled.
Front 127mm. Most all .2 GT3RS came with 124-127mm front ride heights. Give or take 2mm.
When compared to the average .1RS that is 12mm higher than the ride height of the .1 GT3RS as factory delivered.
Rear 275 mm. Most all .2 GT3RS came with 275mm. Give or take 2mm.
So it looks like the car can maintain rake and drop about 15 mm, quite a lot.
But the front end is so good, I will leave it alone to start and see what it does.
Camber was 1.5F and 1.5R roughly
Sway bars middle
zero toe front and 2mm in each side rear.
Setting up the car first time and start playing with it at Sebring:
No change to ride height.
No change to toe: Zero front, 2mm in each side, as delivered from the factory.
No change to sway bars: Middle front and rear to start at Sebring
-1.5 camber front and -2.00 camber rear, so just adding -0.5 degree to the rear.
I will try to put a day together to try Michelin, Dunlop and Goodyear tires before I make setup changes.